Fjbj40

If it's hard to start something is not right!

Feel your pain when it comes to finding "small shops" to get work done. Once I find one I keep them happy with little gifts, case of beer on those stupid hot summer Fridays, coffee and box of donuts when I pick up that small piece they did for me. This goes a long way! I do not waste my time with big shops. Fortunately I found a friend just down the street from me. He drove by one day, saw my garage door open and saw the projects in my shop. He came in introduced himself. He is a machinist with lathe and milling machine in his garage, 10 houses away from me. I do projects for him and he does projects for me, full barter system

Nice nut-sack scoop in front row of the seat

I am looking pretty hard at these http://stadiumsuspension.com/en/740tr In talks with them right now, less than $900.00 Cdn. I like the fact that they are rebuildable and convertible to a piggyback later on if I wish.

$939 Usd is $1200 Cdn. Exchange rate is murder right now. Plus those Wilber's are emulsion shocks, I am looking for oil and gas separated, plus the piggyback look

I have Progressive shocks on my 1000, they suck! I have looked at Ohlins but can't swallow the $2000.00 value, yea I know they are supposed to be amazing but that's just too much. So, I need to keep it around $1000 Cdn. Saying that the Gazi and YSS options are in that price range. I searched the web and most of the reviews talk about #onda groms. So has anybody got any actual feedback for these shocks on the GS bikes? Thanks, Daryl

In that case, if you have a welder, then have at er!

OR....you could save yourself the hassle and come by this! https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sport-touring/annapolis-valley/1986-suzuki-gs1150-ef-motorcycle/1304327900?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Your in Jersey, not to far a drive and with the exchange rate that works out to only $1300.00 USD, probably get it cheaper! hehehe

Glen, have you checked with poussex on GSR yet? He is always parting 1150's

yes it has oil cooler lines more details plus others here http://www.darrenbeggcustoms.com/

With my Bandit wheel into my GS1000 I used the GS sprocket carrier, machined down a couple of mm and then turned the sprocket over. The JT sprocket I used has a step down on one side by a couple mm. This combined with the sprocket carrier machined down gave me 5 mm of chain to frame clearance. As stated, just get the sprocket carrier machined down, no need to cut cushions either. Then you need to slightly shorten the sprocket mounting bolts to clear swinger. IIRC the 6 Cush carriers are all the same.

For cylinder base gaskets I will only use the original Suzuki gaskets. I mostly use original Suzuki head gaskets and sometimes Cometic. I use Cometic everywhere else.

Here is an article I used to help me with alignment and spacers. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?147705-Wheel-Alignments&highlight=alignment Worked for me!

For me, I would prefer to see a 4 into 2 into 1 flat collector, giving more road clearance. In my part of the world those pipes would soon be dented.

Yes, ESD is a beauty

HE he, I hang out there also, some good stuff there but there are some turd polishers there also, and some unbelievable guys there with 15- 20,000 plus posts= no life I am really liking this place though, way more skill here when it comes to fabrication and imagination

So you like visiting gurls blouse forums?

Thanks man! I have the tail piece covered in carbon currently. I may build a 100% carbon tail section this winter. I would like to make a mold of the original 1000 tank to build new ones of carbon and Kevlar. I may start the GS revision this winter, will start a thread on it.

Tighter wind goes to the bottom with the valve springs, as per the factory manual. my starter clutch did not last long in my GS 1085. I pulled it apart and replaced everything as needed. Red loctite on the bolts and in under 500km it was clanging again. So I made a ignition retard lever, makes starting oh so easy now! After I did my gs1100esd engine it had a tick, pissed me off as I replaced everything that was out of tolerance. However, the manual cam chain tensioner I tried to install would not work as instructed. So I yanked it apart again. Remeasued the cam chain and sure enough it was within limits. Talked to some of the GSResource gurus and was told to replace it anyways, so I did. Noise gone after that! I noticed you did not replace your cam chain? Maybe that's it? Was for me anyways.

OK, I thought they were a different diameter, I am not always right! If you want modern handling then convert to Bandit 12 forks/wheels /tires and brakes then! With the gs1100 swinger the Bandit rear wheel fits, no straight in but with a friend who can do some minor machining then you are set. Its amazing how cracks in the road don't pull the bike when on radial tires, and we have LOTS of cracks on our roads where I live. My 1000 converted is a treat to drive with the modern running gear and the brakes are fantastic!

If you can get it try the Hoppes, it is not corrosive like vinegar and will clean them in a superior way!

Oh yea, I also used the Bandit 12 rear brake. Had to relocate the torque arm to under the swinger. Just so you know, it's not a straight bolt on!

I put Bandit 12 wheel with gs1000 sprocket carrier and the bearings from the gs1000 wheel in the Bandit wheel. Needs new spacers manufactured and the sprocket carrier machined down .060" to move sprocket in to avoid chain hitting frame. You will have to clean up welds on the frame around the pivot area also to make room for chain. It's REALLY tight. Make sure you get the narrowest 530 chain available. I run a 170 tire and it clears the gs1100 swinger by about 5-10mm each side. Front offset sprocket is also required.

My 83 gsx1100esd has the spring on the needles. I suspect yours are seized. I usually soak them in Hoppes#9 gun cleaner and it typically cleans and frees them up. http://www.hoppes.com/traditional/no-9-solvent