TLRS
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Posts posted by TLRS
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10 hours ago, bitzz said:
If you get the shocks in at exactly 45 degrees, in the triangle of the lower mount, upper mount and the swing arm pivot, the forces put on the shocks will "graph" linear as it goes through travel. It's easier to tune the shocks.
I'm with @Gixer1460 on this one. If you want linear action the shock has to sit perpendicular to the swingarm. That way most movement is going 'into' the shock, instead of rotation the shock. With no spring or damping to limit that rotation.
5 hours ago, TonyGee said:I can't see a problem with it if its welded good and a gusset is behind it for support it ain't gona go anywhere !!!!!
With a big hole it does seem like a lot of the tube is replaced by a weld. Plus a mount that is offset from the tube.. will try and twist it under load. As well as the usual load from what the subframe needs to take on top anyway.
A gusset that spreads that suspension load over a greater surface of tube.. seems like a good idea.
That said.. it's steel.. and there are two shocks. If it fails it probably won't do so on both sides without any warning or cracking what so ever.
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6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
In an ideal world the shock should be perpendicular to the arm through its travel for maximum stroke and damping effect but
This could be engineered if need be. But they don't.. because progressive seems to be a better solution?
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6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
In an ideal world the shock should be perpendicular to the arm through its travel for maximum stroke and damping effect
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Gees, I thought this thread was going to be about tampons.
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Kinda like the idea that they were potential mounting points. Maybe they considered a b12 like top fairing. Originated the birth of the b12 from that moment. Kinda makes sense because we all love the looks of these bikes naked, they might have thought the same at Suzuki.
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Beauty spots
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Pretty sure that's what you get with a race fairing..?
Trim, relocate, increase part flexibility.
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12 minutes ago, baldrick said:
it does, but the front muddy needs to be yellow imho.
i tried buying a mag 4 off a local lad but hes insistent on building it up again....he said the same back in 2010 ffs.
oh well
Keep asking politely every now and again
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There's something about this bike that just looks right..
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49 minutes ago, imago said:
I think the most interesting thing to come out of that article is what they didn't do. Just goes to show how much of the 'must do' stuff is marketing BS, urban legend and while it does no harm doesn't help anything either. Frame bracing around the head stock and HD head studs being two examples.
"Bloke on the internet said ..." vs "Yoshimura's successful race bikes didn't have ..."
That was the best they could do at the time. Not sure that means it's still the best thing you can do today. Things change.. tire grip.. suspension.. power.. tracks..
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The pcd for the discs should be the same. Hub width might be 128mm on the K1 and 130mm on the srad.
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Provided the charge can be kelpt cool enough obvs..
Does this look safe
in Air Cooled
Posted
There's this train of thought.. and there's the overthink everything and get very little done (my area of expertise ). Learning = making mistakes.