TLRS
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Posts posted by TLRS
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Why would you not measure before fitting.. that ought to tell you everything you need to know?
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Snt racing?
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Any fuel in the oil?
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The engine looks like it grew in the frame, poking out at the front.. lovely.
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Best bet is the importer, they might know.
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That's interesting. The gold toxico's are different afaik. Alloy pistons and only one fluid connection between both caliper halves. Which is where the tricky bleeding comes from I believe.
If you can find a set of Nissin six pots.. those ought to be well nice. Or AP's (if anyone knows any about, please let me know!).
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Look at the thickness of rearsets, caliper brackets, shock mounting hardware. Check shock travel and multiply it by the springrate. Some of these brackets look very skinny but take huge loads.
Look at the length of stock subframes and imagine the loads two up with some luggage. Hanging exhausts of the side.
If you have a very light tail section and your ass is only inches away from that already substantial bit where the tank mounts to, you could probably get away with a very svelte subframe.
Would beef stuff up around the bolt holes though, that's what you see on stock subframes too.
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40 minutes ago, Scotia1000 said:
my original calipers have broken nipples, stripped threads, and seized a bit etc,
A healthy excuse for an upgrade. A lot of folks opt for a newer set of forks, wheel and some fixed (non sliding pin) brakes.
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I would go thicker with the plate too. Personally I don't like loose spacers but it's not bad. Accuracy of the spacer size is more important as it will affect the alignment of the caliper.
Are the lugs on the fork flat enough on the outside? Looks like they are meant to bolt a caliper too from the wheelside. If it's too uneven and you bolt everything tight, maybe it'll cause tension.
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16 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Bit wary of this - Toyota have followed this route with millions of car engines in pursuit of improved economy (which it did) only to get thousands of warranty claims for major excessive oil consumption / top & bottom end failures due to low oil at really low mileages. As always 'there is no such thing as a free lunch' & if an OEM can get caught out ! !.
Machining of the piston skirts is the basis of the 'slipper' style piston, they are ok for racing but the piston slap noise in a road engine is unacceptable IMO. There are loads of 'secrets' for reducing friction / rotating mass - like slimming down crank counterweights so x sectional area is less and so less windage then add back the weight at the tips using Tungsten slugs. Simple, effective but costly unless racing.
Totally agree that a lot of it is expensive or too fragile for a decent street engine. But it’s fascinating stuff!
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There will always be exceptions I guess but on a simple engine, can’t see the benefits?
The car is equipped with a knock sensor though. If I buy 98 octane and boost it a little to around 100ish it runs smoother. So probably adjusts timing to suit the slower burn without sacrifice of power.
For some circumstances it might be cheaper to use these boosters I think, over paying the difference at the fuel station. There are bottles that will treat, guestimate, 400 liters of fuel and add 2 to 3 points. A bottle is 20 quid.
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Not sure this is entirely appropriate but anyone who’s interested in genius engine tuning might want to listen to Steve Dinan. There is a podcast where he tells about reducing friction. Besides the dry sump, lower pressure and reduced losses. He talks about reducing piston ring pressure as there is less blowby. Machining the circumference of the pistons to reduce friction. Increase rodlength. And putting jets in oil gallery to reduce oil requirements to what’s necessary for hot weather racing.
I forgot which rules he had to stick with, but it limited the usual suspects for power increases. Like compression, cams and valve sizes or something.
It’s all % here and there but managed a very substantial result in the end.
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Could there be any corrosion in the seal seats?
If you put the front up on a stand, how far can you spin the wheel?
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You have to be more specific I'm afraid, if you want accurate info.
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On 10/27/2022 at 4:07 AM, Reinhoud said:
Most likely.
But you have to go electric then
Couldn't resist taking a quick peek. Searching for automotive delay timer, relays turn up with for instance a 10 sec delay. Maybe it could simplify your setup (:
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18 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
It's needed because the turbo is below the oil level.
The scavenge tank catches the oil from the turbo and lines after the engine has been turned off
Would just a scavenge pump do if it's kept running for a bit after stopping the engine?
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What does the scavenge tank do that a sump can't? Sorry if it's a dummy question..
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The hole in the bleeder might scoop up your paste in double quick time. Something to keep an eye on maybe.
An alternative might be banjo bolts with a bleeder on top. Depending on the sort of brakelines you run.
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Ace looking bike. Hence no need for a turbo as it will go too fast to show it off.
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From the front it probably looks a bit unfinished, as cut fairings would. Unless a fair bit of work has gone in to round them off some.
Retaining the ram-air tubes (mostly) supposed to be a good thing though.
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With clean fluid and an empty brake system, I see no reasons against it?
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Iirc some bst wheels came with them. Someone I know replaced them because something was wrong with them.
I’d look at the other stuff first too.
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How you doing?
That cracked frame
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Depends on the design!
I think generally the knuckle has more influence on the progressive ratio because it’s pivot points are closer together. Describing a smaller arc, which causes a greater variation in movement vs compression.
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MTC 1216 Ring Gapping Reqd?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Are we still talking about tools here?