colinworth79
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Posts posted by colinworth79
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Just wondered what oil people have used on freshly rebuilt engines . Going to run up my 1340 motor I've built , new rods , pistons and all bearings. Head has been used previously. Don't want to put good oil in and the bores glaze up .
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I would check drive chain tension and lubricate first . Had this once and chain was rather dry .
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I cant see any external differences between my bandit 12 and 1127 engines apart from the amount of material around the gearbox output bearing as a bandit runs a double roller output bearing. Bandit liners are 1mm bigger o/d and I think Suzuki just machines the cases out slightly to except the bigger bandit liner .
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start and horn switch should be ok to just change for a good quality push button and wire as original
indicator you would need a 3 position switch ie off , left and right
kill switch you could change for a normally closed push button but would mean holding button down until the engine has stopped , not as good in an emergency .
high/ low beam I run a push button . Push the button to change from low to high ,then push the button again to change back . The 3 wires that go to the original switch gear go to the 3 terminals on the latch relay ( common , low beam 12v* n/o and high beam 12v *n/c ) , coil one side to negative and 12v feed to the new push button then to the other side of the coil .
A latch relay will keep to whatever state its in ie normally open until 12v is applied then is will switch state and hold that until 12v is removed then re- applied . 20/30A 5 pin job I used . Put in latch relay on that site .
Hopefully the above makes sense.
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what do you want to control ? I have a push button for high / low beam just need what is called a latching relay for this
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1 hour ago, OX88 said:
Reason to keep the origial engine is I'll have a really hard time getting a 7/11 build legal over here (Norway) and it would be even worse to get it insured. So keeping the impression of a stock engine would save me alot of paperwork, money and time.
Any increase in HP is a bonus, just looking for a bit more power in the lower rev range.
if it was me I would purchase an 11 motor and frame with the paperwork then swap over all the running gear, bodywork ect onto the 11 frame and then its a gsxr 1100. The j/ k 750 frame is slightly different but not much to notice on the road . me and mate were building a couple of slingshots he had an 11 frame and i had a 750L both frames side by side on the bench and neither of us could see any difference. I know years ago there was an 884 big bore kit available for the 750 motor but not sure if its still listed and fits the j/k engine
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with the old oil cooled engines they are a bit noisy but tuff old things . To me 15v is a bit high , my gsxr 750 L had a running fault that i finally traced to over charging and boiling the battery . It is going to be either a bad connection or a poorly regulator unit in the alternator . The oil light problem is possibly a faulty switch located under the small engine cover on the right hand side . Remove cover and take wire off the end of the switch and touch the wire to the engine case . The light should go out . If the above checks out ok I would remove the switch and fit a pressure gauge in the hole and check . Should have a fair bit of pressure just by spinning the engine over on the starter . If pressure there its a faulty switch . If there is no pressure then going to have to take the sump off . Has been know for clutch friction plates to fall to bits on something that's been standing for years and block the pick up .
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The gear that's fitted to the back of the clutch to drive the alternator /oil pump are they all the same for gsxr / bandit ? Anyone have info on how many teeth each gear has if there different ? Thought I would ask as I've got a drive gear that I'm unsure what its off , mates up fine to the bandit oil pump tho .
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5 hours ago, bigpants said:
Yeah the wiring blocks were my first guess so I have gone over and over them and can't find any problems. When it's running badly I can give them all a wiggle and it's never made any difference . Carbs cleaned and new plugs and coils fitted.
have you a spare pick up , have been known to play up .
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sounds a bit strange , I would say possibly when your changing over the cdi you disturbing a connector or wire that's the problem .
I would personally check all multi pin plugs and put a drop of electrical grease on them . Check earth points and fit some new plugs . Also worth checking the voltage at the battery when its running with the lights on , I once had a strange running fault on my 750 slingshot and found I had nearly 17v when it was running due to a faulty reg .
I take it the carbs are all free from any muck that might have developed from being sat 8 year ?
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3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Ha Ha Ha - perfect for reliving the moment when your engine melted in the comfort of an old arm chair with a mug o' tea!
A dyno is definitely the place for WOT tuning turbo's IMO!
yeah I agree only if the rear wheel can grip the dyno drum and is strapped down properly. Still think a wide band is useful for checking .
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On 21/10/2017 at 11:29 AM, majortom4 said:
I don't fancy giving it full throttle whilst watching a gauge to see what's happening haha
the units have data logging . My LM1 has 45 min you can then plug in the computer and see .
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I've found the pitot tube design has a large effect on the size of jets you run . I originally ran 115 mains on my bandit then altered the size of the boost pipe and it then wouldn't rev past 5k with that jetting . I would try lower base fuel pressure and drop mains and needle slightly . Really you need to invest in a AFR meter like an innovate lm2 , that way you can connect it all up and take the bike for a run and check which way the fueling is going . If its really rich or lean its not going to run but slightly lean and you are going to end up melting something . Sounds like the clutch was slipping on the dyno ?
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I managed to run a bandit wheel in k4 forks but had a spindle made up . Later front end have forks closer together so think you will have to use the yokes with the forks . Late gsxr front ends will drop in with just a bearing change , then run the 600 5.5 inch rim in the rear to match . Later wheels lot lighter than slingshot stuff but more easily damaged so be careful when buying off that site .
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wiring on these are fairly straight forward so should be easy fix . When you say no head lights do you have rear lights and the clock back lights ?Im thinking you have lost both low and high beam ? Maybe you have got a break in the negative return . If its been layed up for a while then possible a corroded connector block .
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Dan it wont make a lot of difference . Normally pump into the rail then regulator . Idea you keep a constant fuel pressure in the rail . Need to make sure you can supply enough fuel for the power the engine is making ( pump and lines )and flow enough back to the tank when running at slow speeds . I like to fit a return line either equal or slightly larger to the supply.
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if its a gsxr then there is 2 petrol pipes maybe one is blocked. As above start with cleaning the carbs and then check there balanced .
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Nooo just seen this , couldn't race this year to being skint
. Matey with the Harris runs it every year at Brighton and rest of year it lives in his kitchen .
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I would run standard plugs . Not had any problems. . I run stock plugs in a bandit 12 motor that's turbo and running 14 psi with no issues .
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fairly confident they all had side stand switches as standard. Neutral switch also in the start inhibit circuit .
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pink wire is for a sensor in the fuel tank that brings a light on at low level on some models . Can't identity the other one , side stand switch. ?
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If it was running ok a few weeks ago its possible the original vac petrol tap is leaking and then one of the carbs has flooded wetting the plug . My 750 L had a similar problem carbs off , clean and rest float heights . New plugs and a new fuel tap .
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my 750L I had a similar problem where I had fuel and compression and plugs sparked when held to the head but would not run . Replaced the plugs and went straight away . My bike always need full choke to start from cold then knocked back to half way just after its running.
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a T peice . The line would come from the cooler then split into 2 to go to each side of the rocker cover.
gsxr crank
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by colinworth79
if I was building another motor , bandit 1200 cases as double roller output bearing on gearbox , bandit 1200 barrel as thickest liner as standard and 1127 crank as to avoid hi vo cam chain . Rods titanium falcon ones .