colinworth79
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Posts posted by colinworth79
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On 01/03/2018 at 5:40 PM, MooreMatthew said:
When you say oil switch you putting it through a relay
dont really want a on off switch as I’ll end up forgetting to turn it off
put mine on via the oil pressure switch . Yes run it though a relay , pressure switch is closed when no pressure so connect to normally closed side of relay with a switched ignition feed for supply to relay .
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I know I'm sad had to google it -
Brown - 12v - tail
white with black tracer -12v - stop
Black with white tracer - negative - common return
when checking continuity can put one test lead on the negative of the battery and the other to the black/white if its easier . You always need a good negative return otherwise you can get back feed and all weird and wonderful faults will come up .
Hope this is of some help
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you should have a plug with 3 wires in for the rear lights . Common return and a positive feed one for the brake light and one for the tail light . I would think you have lost the common return as neither stop or tail work . Check with a meter set on 12v dc , one wire onto the frame and the other to each of the wires on the plug from the loom . Should have 12v on one with lights on and one when the brake pressed . If checks out ok set meter on ohms and one wire on frame again and check resistance on the common return should be zero ideally . Cant remember colours at the moment and me book is at work ! Think the return ( negative ) is black/white .
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when you say 46mm inlet stub i take it you are measuring the outside of the carb where it would push into the rubber ? Stock bandit 1200 carbs are 40mm o/d at that point iirc ? I would look for some inlet rubbers that fit the larger bodied carbs as standard ie gsxr 750 M , gsxr 1100 L ,M,N . The gsxr 1100 M had 40mm cv carbs fitted as standard so the outside of those carbs is going to be a minimum of 44 mm where they push into the rubbers .
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26 teeth bandit 1200
28 teeth gsxr 1127
30 teeth gsxr 750
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If the carbs are 750 L then they would have a small black plastic pipe from the bowl to the main carb body for the power jet function ( this is blocked off as standard ) which the 36mm do not have . Not 100% sure if the bowls are the same physical size of not . Only way is to get both carb banks side by side .
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found a picture of the one I made , yes there not easy to do ! This is the second one I've made and paid more attention to where the pipes merge into the turbo , makes boost 300rpm lower.
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bandit 12 has the bowl to one side and total oil capacity is 3300ml , May work if the exhaust is a 4 into 1 ?
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number 7
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5 hours ago, yyt said:
Finished that part..
Now, while I'm deep digging.. I was wondering if anyone made an improvement on the Rear Caliper?
The clips holding the Pads Pin are prone to damage the Piston Dust Seal!
Is there a better option??
Sometimes even the Japanese engineers ...
what about a bandit 1200 rear caliper pad pin clip iirc its a one peice job for the 2 pins ?
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easiest is to have all 4 pipes come together then fabricate a cone down to the turbo flange . I tacked up one pipe then built a jig with a scrap head . Careful when welding it up , I once done it without bolted to my scrap head and warped so bad I had to cut and shut it .
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If the rubber gaskets still feel soft then they should be ok to reuse . Only need to put a small amount of sealant around the 4 half moon cut out on the side of the head . Be careful not to over tighten the bolts there only m7 and go in aluminium .
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very nice , more close up pics required . How easy was it to fit the k5 onwards wheels ? I'm assuming 600 5.5 inch rear rim ?
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Hu As above what do want to achieve first,
standard motor with decent exhaust and filter 115-120
bit of head work and cams 130 ish
1216 /1246 big bore and flatsides 150 ish
low comp pistons , corrillo rod , port job turbo up to 300
day to day road bike I would have it how I had my bandit back in 2003 1246 big bore , full akro system , yoshi cams and gas flowed head 145-150 hp .
Budget to replace the old cheap (crap from new ) shock , rework the forks and some decent sticky tyres .
The old girl back in the day -
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yes I'm using k1 thou .
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5 hours ago, wraith said:
Cheers,
I take it you put the 1127 output bearing on the b12 box?
yes its a narrower bearing
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I've put a bandit box in 1127 cases . Gearbox output bearing needed changing.
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stock carbs are 38 mm cv . Should have a small rubber tube up the side .
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The trigger plate in the picture is dyna . If you have purchased this as a non runner I would go through the basics first before pulling engines apart . I would pull the carbs off and clean also checking the float heights . Check valve clearances . I would also fit new plugs as they don't like being flooded with petrol . I had the exact same problem with my 750 L , it would turn over and then occasionally there would be a loud bang through the exhaust . I had a leaking float valve in 2 carbs . The flooding killed the plugs .
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Forgot to say , make sure your fuel return line goes above the level in the tank and needs to be 6 mm min internal bore . I've removed the sender from the tank and replaced with a plate and tube .
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On 02/01/2018 at 6:55 PM, B2BC said:
Big fall back today
fitted cooler filled with oil ect connected up fuel tank tried firing it up and realised fuel has flooded and into turbo aswell
sorted that after few hours engine drain new oil ect
set pressure reg to 2psi seems to be having problems starting and running when fuel pump turned on can run bike ticks over fine turn fuel pump on starts playing up / cuts out
think I may have leaky float valves
so will check float height tomorrow and set to 14mm and see how it goes from there
heres a quick vid without fuel pump on
no video as can't upload wrong format or some shit like that
on my bandit I lowered the float height a bit and reg is turned right down . I did get the odd problem where it occasionally fire on 3 then 4 th would then come in , I've wired the fuel pump through a relay and operated via engine oil pressure switch so pump only runs when the engine is running and been 100% from then .
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29 minutes ago, Prime said:
got a picture you can post of one of these fella
ta
73 quid on the bay at moment . Search bandit 12 lipo battery
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been using a lipo lithium battery 150 x 105 x 87 on turbo bandit for about 4 years now . Never had to touch it in any way, will sit for all winter and remain fully charged . Does seam to spin the engine over quicker as well . Also no problems running additional electrics ( fuel pump ect )
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51 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:
Why would you avoid the hy-vo chain?
I just find easier to time up . Not really a problem my bandit been ok for 14 years
Dirty valves
in Oil Cooled
Posted
See picture of a set of valves I've just removed from my bandit 1200 motor . 3 of the inlet valves have quite a lot of carbon deposits on the back . There in order of where they are in the head . I'm thinking the stem seals are past there best as far as I'm aware never been changed .