colinworth79
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Posts posted by colinworth79
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will just swap over , keep the piston with its respective bore .They normally recommend not to reuse piston circlips but I've done several times without problems .
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10 hours ago, Jaydee said:
Still going to need to get the degree wheel, positive stop, dial gauge and brackets etc. I can get the wheels slotted handy enough. It's optimising them that's the problem. It was cheaper to swap cams back (at the mo) till I can get a degree kit together.
make the bits up yourself , I printed out a degree wheel disc then stuck it to some aluminium . Positive stop tool get an old spark plug break out the ceramic and thread the middle for a bolt . Dial gauges are cheap as chips !
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nice exhaust , ear plugs at the ready tho !
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rear sprocket on a 750 is 45 and 1100 is 48 so I would say no too short but no harm in fitting the 750 arm sliding the wheel fully forward and see if it fits if you have the chain , if your getting a new one and if unsure get slightly longer than you think and shorten it as required . Only really want one join in a drive chain .
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with anything new and unknown start with the basics. New plugs , fresh fuel , air filter, check over the wiring , check battery . I would pop the carbs off and check what jetting is in there and quick clean with carb cleaner . Then you know what your starting with. If the engine is just stalling I would try just winding up the idle a bit once I new everything else is as it should be .looks a good start to a project. I just purchased a 750 l and got some starting problems and its the vac petrol tap that's shot but going over it before I take it for blast.
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once had this where one of the diaphragm rubbers had got folded over when the plastic top was put back on .
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super job thanks . The tank on the bike is in good nick apart from a dent to the right of the filler cap that's going to awkward to repair . Only tanks I can find for sensible money are 1100 ones .
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am I right In thinking slingshot tanks are all roughly the same and interchangeable? 1100 ones have the fuel light sensor but would still fit ?
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my turbo bandit , roughly the same spec , starts with the choke as normal . I take it you lowered the float hights slightly to compensate for the fuel being fed by a pump rather than gravity. I run the fuel pimp via a relay that is switched by the oil pressure switch so when I put the ignition on the pump doesn't run until the engine is being cranked . It stopped the occasional flooding of the carbs .
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iirc k model had the removable top shock mount . What's the reg year?
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nothing else like riding a big bore turbo bike but think of a budget then double it and will be near the mark
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kawaski zxr 750 forks late 90's
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cant believe someone has said you cant get it running right with a 4 into 1 . Is a stock bandit 1200 not a 4 into 1 ???? Carbs are a quite simple way of metering the fuel into an engine but when you start changing parts its quite easy to get into a muddle and Change the wrong part . Main jet does do the top end of the fueling but does have nock on affect with the lower down fueling . As mentioned above needle is doing the main metering when used on the road but you have still got to have a main jet close to being the right size if not your not going to get the needle part right . Dyno time or invest In something to monitor the air fuel ratio. Other wise you will spend years and it still wont be right . Most AFR gauges now a days have recording options that you can then download onto a lap top .
looking at plug colour is another waste of time for a 4 stroke road bike , this may have been the way to see if some pile of scrap that rev'ed to 2000rpm was running but things have moved on since 1950.
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yes there will be a small amount of oil / condensation collect in the airbox from the engine breather . Bung is supposed to be in there to stop stuff being sucked up the pipe . Bung removed and drained at service time .
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disconnect the fuel pipe from the tap then connect a hose to container and turn the tap to prime and see if the fuel flows at a steady rate , if not vac tap is playing up or breather is still blocked
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only way to really tell is to take some covers off .
if the top of the starter clutch cover is straight at the top its early gsxr should have 1052 on the bottom of the barrel
1127 on the bottom of the barrel its later gsxr but rocker cover off to tell which one . M/N heads have shim adjustment and 16 cam lobes
No markings on the bottom of the barrel and wanky diaphragm /ally clutch basket its a blandit motor
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1371cc
in Oil Cooled
the bike in the pic looks nice and clean if it was mine rebuild the lump bore the block to 81mm with forged low comp pistons then blow through turbo kit. Easy 200 hp and loads of torque .
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1371cc
in Oil Cooled
found this block on that site a year ago . Its not going to be cheap . Crankcases opening out to except the liners , stronger rods , ported head , cams , head and case studs and pistons . On top of that new shells , bearings , seals all adds up . This engine is going to be low comp on an 85mm bore . Easy £4k can be put into something like this .
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21 hours ago, XR55 said:
OEM conrod I.D number are ("1" or"2")
Carrillos are usually #1, but check "B.E. bore" on spec card that comes with the Carrillo rods (or measure them).
ok thanks for that . Haven't got the rods yet hoping the pound will go back up a bit before I order
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2 hours ago, t3rse said:
I don't have specific advice for you, but in autos, we used this stuff called plastiguage: http://www.plastigaugeusa.com/
You put it in there in place of the bearing and torque it to spec, then take it apart and the squished piece tells you your tolerance.yes used the plasti gauge when I built the last turbo lump . Think the only way I'm going to do it is get a pair of shells and use these as dummy ones then plasti gauge each rod/big end in turn and then work out from there
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anyone built a motor recently using corrillo rod , just wondering how you spec the correct size bearing shells . With stock crank and rods take numbers off crank and rods check table select right colour . Fit together and check with plasti gauge simple . How do you select the correct ones for these rods ? Or is it a case of buy a couple of shells of the bigger clearance then once measured can work out the correct ones ?
thanks colin
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me and a mate were building a couple gsxr's and I had a 750 m frame and he had a 1100 l frame . Both frames were put side by side on a bench and neither of us could see any physical difference once the sub frames were removed . As mentioned 750 j/k physically smaller . If you want good handling modern forks,shock and good tyres set up by a suspension specialist . Things have moved on since the last slingshots were built .
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Just read through all the build thread on here , very nice . I always think I looks more professional when little brackets and spacers are anodised. This is something I would like to try over the winter . What's the headlight off , nc30 ?
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13mm return size
What's the difference between 750l shock and 1100l
in Oil Cooled
Posted
believe the spring rate and damping are different for the difference in swingarm length but should physically fit .