peter1127

Yeah I measured them, put them in CAD and changed spacing and linkage to be in the center instead of at the outer end.

FYI this is OEM GSXR600 throttlebodies. Sprays definitely not on valves.

Imo it doesnt matter that much. Like batch injection: theoretically you will inject while inlet valves are closed which doesnt sound good. In reality it works fine. I can imagine if you are looking for that last bit of efficiency and emissions like automotive, this is important. For us, not so much.

Just used the numer I saw in his post: 45psi boost. Add 45psi base pressure, you are at 90 psi pump pressure. This results in around 225L/hr, which seems not enough to support the horsepower associated with 45psi boost.

Of course building stuff yourself will keep you busy with a nice project and you will learn a ton. Will you have the same result than even a budget unit like a microsquirt? Unlikely. One lean mishap and its very costly. My advice is to check the manuals of microsquirt: very detailed and useful, and valuable input even if you decide for another unit or the diy route. Manual for hardware, manual for software and manual for setting stuff up. I'm really happy with this stuff. https://www.msextra.com/manuals/ms2manuals/

probably because of the high presure. If you run the pump at 90psi it flows around 225L/Hr according to various people who bothered to do the test. https://www.google.com/search?sca_esv=04ccc06d6a14a3bd&rlz=1C1CHBD_nlNL1043NL1043&q=bosch+044+pressure+graph&udm=2&fbs=AEQNm0Aa4sjWe7Rqy32pFwRj0UkWd8nbOJfsBGGB5IQQO6L3J_TJ4YMS4eRay1mUcjRHkZxg8Vy0p2Xq9PcZNNq1Ew9zQooLZH5gQS3wVxeld5ohRXutwtU5CU2X36_uLH1pIUk5kgTFJ72LHrHs1dTrQZP2bShAIpXPbBXJuSHMpD67_7PI_IrPeKYP6OPe9Ff2p8rktfex&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwim-rbVnLmJAxVygf0HHe-QCCcQtKgLegQIDhAB&biw=2560&bih=1319&dpr=1#vhid=SGOLBMIevLm8wM&vssid=mosaic So if you go north of 400hp I can imagine this will become an issue.

This is what I did: MTC 81mm 10:1 compression and milled them down to 9:1. See this thread somwhere on page 10. Of course this is for the GSXR1127 so you need to recalculate for the bandit https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/18853-turbo-gsxr1127-the-sequel/page/10/

Still better then 60pounds a piece on CMS......... But yeah everything is more expensive then diy

Detonation is the main engine killer on high performance forced induction engines. Following items will influence this: engine design Compression ratio. Stock is 10:1. You could use boost, but I think anything above 7psi is tricky and boost creep needs to be avoided at all cost. 8:1 is considered low and safe (if there is such a thing) so 15psi on 98 octane pump fuel should be fine. Low rpm performance and spoolup time suffers. Shape of the combustion chamber and stuff like sharp edges. Rounding those sharp edges in the head helps, also removing carbon deposit. Squish. Disadvantage of spacers and hayabusa pistons is that squish is too large to have the perfect mixing effect you are looking for. Then again, countless bikes exactly like this, so it seems more or less fine. Theoretically with a good squish band detonation is less likely How much mixture actually enters the engine: intake restrictions, valve size, cam shape & timing, exhaust backpressure Settings Boost level AFR: too lean at WOT burns pistons very quickly and promotes detonation. 12:1 is a good number to aim for, a bit richer on very high power Mixture temperature: the cooler the better. intercooler, chargecooler or water/methanol injection helps. A small turbo way outside its efficiency zone will heat up the air more then a large turbo which is nicely in the zone: same boost, different results. Assuming petrol: octane nr. ignition timing. not too advanced. I'm using 35 degrees at zero boost up to 30 degrees at 15psi Duration of runs = heat buildup. Dyno runs are more forgiving but when doing extended and repeated topend runs, that's a different story Since there are countless configurations, settings and situations possible, its difficult to give hard numbers especially if you want to know where the limit is. You will know when you go over it Best to look what others are doing and relate your plans to that. If you aim for 160-180rwph, you could use a fully stock unopened engine with something like 5-6psi. But what is the point If you are aiming for 200rwhp, that could be something like 10psi on a stock engine with 9:1 CR and 98 octane. Clutch might cope. Still hardly enough. (I have around 200RWHP on stock engine with spacerplate 8:1 CR and 10psi, and in process of upgrading the engine to allow for more power) 250rwhp: could be like 15-18 psi on an engine with 9:1CR and waterinjection/intercooler or 8:1 CR without. Stock pistons and rods might let go at some point, lockup needed. Imo a good number for the street. I'm aiming for this, or a tad more, with 9:1 1216 MTC, proper squish, maxpeed rods, ape studs, EFI, TD05-16G turbo, MTC lockup, stock head/cams, 98octane, possible waterinjection (still thinking intercooler somewhere) 300rwhp: could be something like 22-25 psi on 8:1 CR with waterinjection/intercooler and definitely proper pistons, rods, studs, lockup. Bit much for the road I think >350RWHP: dont know. Other people here have experience, even sombody here aiming for 1000hp......... Larger valves, flowed head and/or larger capacity will give a bit more power, or less boost for the same power. (just my 5 cents, results may vary)

APE valve guides are 260pound a set on suzukiperformancespares. Not cheap but not crazy.

I had a TD04-16T with internal wastegate that coughed up >300rwhp with a proper head and 1277cc. That was with the wastegate clamped shut, in hindsight not a brilliant plan but it was FAST. Engine took that beating quite well although intake temps were extreme. Waterinjection saved it I guess. With a larger turbo I would have grenaded the engine. At some point the turbo spit up the turbine wheel and with the fresh turbo I settled for 250rwhp. Low rpm performance was pretty ok and lag not too bad. I now have the proboost TD05-16G with external wastegate which is larger. Lag is not great and it start generating its first psi of boost at 4500rpm. But I also have 8:1 compressio ratio on a stock engine. Now rebuilding the engine with 1216cc and 9:1 CR so that should be a bit more responsive. Also getting the AFR crisp at low rpm helps spooling up. Personally I think 200HP is not enough. If you encounter a proper literbike, hayabusa or panigale you wont really stay in front of those. 50hp more solves that. Then there are the H2R or Superbusa but never saw one of those in the wild.

I made most of the turbo stuff myself, except the header/turbo which I bought from proboost. They make complete kits, but also can deliver parts only for reasonable prices. Good bang for the buck imo.

Welcome! Only valid reason for draw trough setup or "draw trough positioning" of the turbo would be looks. It has no benefits other then easier access of the single carb and easier oil return. I dont get the point of the turbo further back. Response would be worse, and the turbo isnt visible anymore. But if stealth is the objective I guess it does that. Yes, spoolup will be slower. Possibly a fancy ball bearing modern high tech turbo would be better, but not sure if its worth it. Small diameter piping towards the turbinehousing and cerakote or heatwrap to keep the heat in might help a bit. One injector could work, but causes uneven AFR if your manifold is not perfectly designed. Personally I would have 4 injectors at the inlet manifold. If you bother to convert to EFI, you might as well do it with 4 injectors. If you batch fire them there is no added complexity, and its good enough. I'm using microsquirt and happy with it. In case of injectors at the manifold you dont need a turbo that is fuel resistant, but it still needs to be able to deal with vacuum or it will smoke like a mf You could also just use the classic one large carb setup, and have the retro on/off behavior and backfires. Gotta love that!

This might be of some help https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/396

yeah thats the one.