CockneyRick
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Posts posted by CockneyRick
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IIRC, the GSXR headers will flow to offside of sump, Bandit down the middle.
Swapping sumps if needed will sort that.
Look at my drag build thread & you can see the issues i had & how i got round it
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No idea, @Rsvfletchcan tell you
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If you have the Yoshi on, then better flowing headers & a re-jet (then dyno) will help it a lot. Otherwise, it will mostly run the same or worse than a stock can
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Aftermarket will be lighter, most likely better flow dependent on quality. As for sump, it may be that you will have to get a strainer & sump off a different bike (see my drag bike build thread in projects) also, a few are hard to change filter with headers on, but seeing as you'll change it once in 5k miles, that's no biggy
And sticking an end can on original headers & mid pipe will do nothing but look good.
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I got a spare set somewhere
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I might be wrong, but i think the Slabby large tank tap is 44-45mm? Sure that's wot i had to source for mine (it's in gargae somewhere)
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That's wot the smiley gave a hint to
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Just keep insulting people, you'll soon be there
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Is there anything you can't do? (Oh yeah, wheelie
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No, the metering of fuel is done by the float, the prime just keeps a constant flow to it. The Vac will stop all fuel movement when engine isn't turning over.
Downside to prime is if a float sticks (which they do) then the freeflow will just keep going & dump all that fuel thru carbs into & past the cylinder/pistons into your oil
With Vac, the fuel will freeflow if the float sticks, but as it's running, it will mostly burn it off before getting past the pistons, & will stop flow when engine is shut off.
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That's why i said do it on prime
PS no-one likes a smartarse
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Could also be the diaphragm in tap, put it on free flow & see if it'll run off choke. Other than that, CDI for me too
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Hope you got a bullworker in the loft
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It's pretty strong, I can't bend/snap it!
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Had a 1980 model that i used to tear up & down Blackrock Sands, back in the day when beaches were for bikes
Fell off it 3 times in 10 days, before i realised it had a bent frame!
Bought in bits for a £100, sold it complest(ish) for £100! Thought i'd got a result, but kicking myself now
And shame is no pics anywhere of it, although i still remember the Reg: PTU 570V
And it was......... RED
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It has Kwak rearsets on with a long throw rod on it.
So am just looking at the angle the link arm works at best.
I have to adjust the rod for my personal taste after & loctite it in place as the rod is made of Nylon tube that i threaded.
Link arm on this pic is not one i'm using, have fitted a gen slabby one now with dogleg to it.
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Can anyone show me a pic of the gear linkage as i wanna figure the exact positioning of the link arm on the gearshaft.
Ithangew
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Looks like the lump i have will do fine
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No but it sure makes it look Purty
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As said, i have a GSX1100F (1127) already. Just thinking out loud & whether in the future to change it, before the spanners start to spin
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4 hours ago, Oliekoel said:
I put three diafragma springs in for clutch
But... Why not the dothead conversion?
Shouldnt iT Also be considered?
No, cos the question was for a stock engine to start with!
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Doubt my pockets will ever be that deep
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How much difference does a header make
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I have done more complex build threads than that. Unfortunately they're on the old site