Panos
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Posts posted by Panos
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When i did mine i wanted to use the tube method too but the float covers can't be connected with a tube as they are , so i didn't bother and just measured the floats.
One modification i want to do now is fit a brass tube on float covers so i can use the clear tube method , has anybody done this ?
I found a video of a guy doing this on bandit carbs but he uses one dedicated float cover for this and blocks the next carb needle which is sharing the same fuel line .
I want to have all float covers connected with clear tube so i can set them all equal , in my head this is the best method am i wrong?
Tube method at 11:40 in video.
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18 hours ago, jonny1bump said:
I've not got any left, I asked Lee to see he has odd set, this really will be the last if we have.
Ok fingers crossed then , thank you Jonny
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@jonny1bump If there is a set available for my 40mm carbs can i please have one ?
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1 minute ago, Hooligan666 said:
I.d?
Yes measure the i.d on the side where they fit on the rubbers on cylinder head , 92 model uses bst 40mm .
They are very tricky to tune without an airbox .
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If those carbs are 40mm you will need the airbox for them to work .
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From GSXR 600K1 through K5
GSXR 750Y through K5
GSXR 1000 through K6
Note that i didnt do a conversion myself just kept notes from others here .
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29 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Are they any different?
I remember reading in the vault that the valve spacing is different so they can't be interchanged .
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1 hour ago, DAZ said:
Having read the article you posted I have to ask :
if they built an 1186 motor specifically to drag race why would they not set the valve springs pressure to suit the expected rpm limits of the motor,to ensure it didn't float the valves ?
why didn't it have a rev limiter set so it didn't over rev , soft cut limiter aren't new
if you haven't read @Oilyspannermy route to oily happiness thread in projects his 1216 M sounds close to what you want and maybe worth the time to read it you haven't already seen it
I think the article promoting the shim fix was separate from the text above it , i could be wrong though . Most motorcycle magazines are just promoters anyway .
Not only have i read @Oilyspannerthread , i have gone through it many times and also kept notes !
And of course the evo bike thread of johnybump , i will copy as much as i can from them .
Both awesome projects and goldmine of knowledge
When i grow up i wanna be just like them !
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Camshaft swap was the reason i got the dot head and also i thought the dot head flowed better than the shim head . Another reason was the shim spitting at high rpm and easier valve adjustment .
As far as i have looked i couldn't find any replacement cams for the shim head .
Now i am thinking of three options
1 Get the M head converted to screw adjustment (PITA) ,do bigger inlets and porting . This way bst 40 and airbox will fit for sure and the M head (which i already have) gets used .
2 Get a forked head bandit or gsxr 1100 ,do bigger inlets and porting . Probably the rubbers of M head for BST40 match the ports and they are not way off like the dot head and airbox can be used , i hope port heights are the same are they though?
3 Just fit bigger inlets , port the M head and have the cams reprofiled in uk , thats the more sensible option .
I am itching for option 1 unless option 2 a bandit head can perform the same and port heights match .
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2 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Ive fitted a few to B12's, it certainly livens them up, first one was years ago ( 2006??) , i got the whole 750 engine for £35 as the gearbox had gone big time.
I knew nothing about degreeing cams so I juist stuck the cams and head on using B12 sprockets and timing, it worked spot on.....
I fitted it to the B12 below, had issues with the tap to carb top clearance due to steeper angle, tried spacing tank but it looked pants so fitted a pingle tap and all was well...
eventually had it Dyno'd, made 138 RWHP and accelerated like a mad thing, the midrange was a lot less but what fun when revved....
Dyno man said it would have made a couple more donkeys, if some idiot hadnt cut the Yoshi can down!!!!!!!!!!
I paid a lot more than 35 for the head , you guys seem to find the best bargains but i am not complaining , still happy i bought it though even if it proves to be a pain in the ass to fit it .
That bandit looks super clean and wheelie happy , electrics and battery are hidden underseat ? Looks so tidy very nice
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1 hour ago, Slabby11 said:
The 1100n rubbers will bolt up but will have some pretty big mismatches, easiest solution is dot head rubbers but fitting your BST40's will be a challenge or head work to match the 1100n rubbers. All-in-all i'd be tempted to find an 1100 screw adjuster head and rework it to suit want you want
I was afraid of that , i guess i should have asked more before buying it but im still happy to own a dot head hehe .
I found gsx750f rubbers which are longer than gsxr ones according to @Dezzasticky about rubbers , should i snatch them ?
I would like to keep the airbox too which complicates things more i guess
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I think my shim head GSXR uses the same camchain (plain chain not hyvo) as the dot head so i can use the dot head cam wheels but i will do cam dialing for sure .
I never dialed cams or calculate compression cc's , valve to piston , or squish measure on 4stroke and i'm looking forward in doing all of these this winter .
Carb rubbers im forced to use the shim head ones as i have BST 40mm so maybe thats an issue on the way .
Thank you all for the help guys i will pester you with questions again tomorrow as im getting of work now . Thanks again guys
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2 minutes ago, DAZ said:
I'd check what the compression would be with a 1216 kit before anything else if that is definitely in your future,what is advertised as say 11:1 would become 12.5:1 with a dot head ,more if it's skimmed just something to bear in mind is there an issue with the stock head? I think if it's ok you maybe better using the std head and spending the cash on a refurb,proper valve job new seals etc jmho
I got the dot head because i would like to get yoshi camshafts someday and my shim camshafts where pitted , also the shim spitting stories .
Getting the shim head to screw and nut mod is a lot of work i've been told and getting the dot head was cheaper .
Proper valve job you mean bigger inlet valves (for dot head )?
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3 minutes ago, clivegto said:
I'd just clean it up and use it as it is, shouldn't be a problem.
So i could clean it up and make the rest of the chambers the same cc's ?
I was worried about the squish area , forgot about 1100's having wider pistons...
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Just received a dot head to replace my shim head for my 1100N and to my disappointment the surface on no4 cylinder is pitted by something while running .
If i have the head skimmed enough compression gets too high i think , i also plan on getting it bored to 1216 with wossner pistons .
I remember reading here @HWBhad detonation issues with his skimmed dot head .
Also a machine shop i know can weld the area then skim it , is this the way to go ?
Anybody had to deal with something like before ?
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10 minutes ago, Jdeac said:
Could sort you the whole head out if it's needed. Not using it as there are cracks around the plug holes.
I don't know the answers to your other questions
I think i can source one locally for cheap , i am in Greece so the shipping cost is a question .
I will let you know thanks again Jdeac .
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So i guess i will need a screw nut head at hand to compare/measurement to do this right ?
What about the rockers do they need hardwelded for aftermarket camshafts ?
The lack of camshafts for the shim head is why i want to do the conversion by the way .
Thanks for helping guys .
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32 minutes ago, Jdeac said:
I will have some rockers available when my replacement head turns up. Can get you some pics if you want. Can't recall the condition. As uve not looked at it for ages
That would be nice , thanks Jdeac .
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I want to convert my 92 1100 shim head to screw and nut and i am shopping around for rockers , most of the used rockers i can find are very worn though , do they need to be hard welded to fit yoshi cams or should i look for new ones .
Also i read in the vault that some welding is required but doesn't mention where and i couldn't find a thread here describing the process .
Any advise ?
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The police used 750s here (Greece) i have seen ads for parts of them from time to time , maybe i can help if you cant find something .
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On 3/5/2023 at 3:23 PM, Oilyspanner said:
Great info Panos, thanks They're closer than I thought, the braced 1100ws - on , is longer, so will be heavier, but the 750wr/s is very similar kg to the Slingshot, but is shorter, food for thought ..
I removed axle adjusters from slingshot swingarm 750w doesnt have them on either , got a scale and ...
Hayabusa one 1kg heavier!
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Its 1100 the scale i used is a shit one though i must buy a proper one and do it again .
BTW i got the linkage , it's the correct one sadly my k6 shock is too long but the oem shock fits fine .
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Slingshot 1100 92 case/frame sliders.
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I know it's almost a month late but i can measure mine tommorow