Panos
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Posts posted by Panos
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I just weighed them with a cheap scale that is not accurate at all but still could give an idea in comparison between them .
750w without bearings and spacers 5.5kg
slingshot without bearings and spacers just a bit heavier maybe 5.6kg ??
hayabusa with bearings and spacers showed around 6.5kg
I will weigh them again when i get a proper scale i just used what i could find .
Also slingshot one was a bit lightened thanks to my dad
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14 hours ago, Oilyspanner said:
Hi Panos.....saw you had a number of swingarms, could you please weigh them and post the figures ? I've always believed that the Slingshot arm was lighter than the braced ones. You've probably fitted the 750 by now, but any info would be good. Cheers mate
I will do it , just need to find a scale first .
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32 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
That looks like it's for the R/S braced swing arm. The banana swing arm linkage has the dog bones as one piece with bearings in the end. The braced swing arm dog bones just have a spacer and a bolt. At least that's how it looks in the parts diagrams I double checked. How much are they asking? I usually see them on Eblag for like $10 for the cushion lever, and $10 for the dog bones. Though I just looked on Eblag here in the states and there's not much for the 94/95 swing arms right now.
Dog bones look to me as one piece so this must be a p model but i will call the guy and ask him about it , i just hope it's the same cushion lever for both models . Part number for p model is 62600-40830 i couldn't find part number for r/s model .
He is asking only 80 euros for it ...
I bought a hayabusa swingarm too after i got tired of looking for a 1995 braced for 3 years and when the hayabusa one arrived i finally found the braced one!
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I found this linkage but i am not sure if it is the correct one , it's a bit pricey so before i go ahead and buy it can anybody tell if it's the right one ?
When looking at parts diagrams online it looks like model p and model r/s (braced ) use the same linkage but i couldn't find part number for r/s model .
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19 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
I've done it, believe I used the W linkage. Only thing I remember was the different sized swing arm pivot bolts.
On a 1100 frame ? Asking because 1100 has solid shock mount .
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Hello everybody , i tried to fit the 95 swingarm to my 1100 92 slingshot frame and i came across some issues .
Slingshot linkage width at dogbones bearings is 94mm
750w swingarm dogbone bearings width is 84mm
Different bolt diameter too 14mm for slingshot and 12mm for 750w .
I also tried to fit a k6 shock i want to use but it was too long for the slingshot linkage .
So i guess i need the 750w linkage and dogbones right ?
Anybody here done the mod on a 92 1100 slingshot ? i couldn't find much using search engine .
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4 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Welding any oil contaminated metal, steel or aluminium is a total PITA! No matter how clean you think it is, with heat oil will boil out and ruin the weld. Not saying it 'can't' be done, its just new will be more cost effective!
I was thinking of rinsing it with solvent , use heat to dry it and plug the hole with something when it is welding time .
I need to talk to my welder i guess .
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1 minute ago, Dezza said:
A cost effective solution would be to junk the leaking OEM cooler and the hoses, then fit a generic 19 row AN8 cooler and build a set of hoses using the stuff available from Torques. And it will look a lot better than the OEM cooler, thus aligning with the overall remit of OSS
. A new Sino cooler isn't exactly going to break the bank and the ones I have had experience of have been of good quality too.
I want to keep the curved oil cooler because its effective and add a gsxr 1000 v shaped cooler for the head( if i can fit it ) , looks will come second to me as i live in a rather warm country .
Seeing the cost of 1100 curved coolers online i think i will give it a shot , it's a shame to junk it if i can save it .
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18 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Binned them as you don’t want oil coming out
By the way did you know someone’s wrapped carpet round your exhaust
I was hoping i could save my cooler by cutting the cracked piece and welding an AN 8 fitting on it .
I don't see why it would leak if done properly , but i have never done this and i have no welding experience .
Should i start looking for an oil cooler then ?
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On 8/12/2022 at 7:52 PM, TJS said:
Frustrations never end! Flooding! Time to check floats and needle valves!
If your bandit has a vacuum membrane at the fuel tap like oilcooled gsxr has , check it to see if gas is leaking through that .
Thats a lot of leaking though .
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I used to have the same set up minus the dynojet kit (GSXR 1992), standard jets and the small inlet rubber .
I read here somebody opened the small inlet rubber 3mm in a lathe because he couldnt get the bigger one to work , i dont remember the thread though .
Sorry for asking a stupid question but you balanced the carbs right ?
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On 7/13/2022 at 4:07 AM, Tony Nitrous said:
Aren’t the throttle body’s and inlets in the head relatively small (for a 1402cc motor) part of the engines design for lowdown grunt. I know they suffer from being oddly spaced in comparison to other models. The 14 being a stand alone engine, even wider across the cases.
Obviously still do-able but not a quick swap over. I did look into it briefly for mine. I’d be interested if anyone does it.
I have seen some youtube videos with fcr carbs on gsx 1400 , looks like a common mod in Japan .
My brother just sold his recently these bike are getting rare here .
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Well its not aluminum so its source is the gearbox ?
I would be worried if i found aluminum .
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I have so many questions for this pic and an idea .
If a shorter curved cooler , connected with the main one , placed in front and lower of the main cooler can fit with no clearance issues with an usd fork and not reducing turning radius too .
Have this double cooler as a head cooler with the lines coming over the cylinder head and a gsxr 1000 vshaped cooler connected with the sump lines instead of the main one , everything nice and tidy right ?
Also anybody knows what frame is this in the picture ?
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I have a question , why is nobody connecting the second cooler inline with the main one ?
I think johny1bump wrote about doing it this way next time or maybe i am wrong .
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On 6/7/2022 at 3:01 PM, Swiss Toni said:
Anyone else, just ask!
Hello can i have one too ?
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3 hours ago, Blower1 said:
They have been serviced about 8000 km ago. I have no idea about factory settings. Actually forks are quite ok, but could perform better.
Try settings in the middle ?
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I am interested in this topic too for my 1100 1992 forks , also if anybody could suggest someone who can chrome fork tubes .
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2 minutes ago, colinworth79 said:
Yes , just welded up the holes then a an-8 fitting on top .
You didnt cut the fitting off?
I think i probably need to cut it because the crack goes all the way to the center .
Could you please post a pic of it , if it is possible ?
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A few months ago as i removed my oil cooler ( GSXR 1100 N ) one bolt stripped the threads and cracked the fitting of the oil cooler where the oil lines connect .
If i had to do it again i would just remove the lines from the sump and leave the ones on the oil cooler connected.
Recently i had the idea to cut the old fittings and have AN8 or AN10 fittings welded in place .
Anybody here done that before?
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I always thought that the rear wheel in the pic had a 190 tire on a 5.5 rim because it looks swoallen to me , am i wrong?
Looks nice to me but i have no idea how it turns.
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6 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
i was thinking about the swingarm end float adjuster, could the shaft be seized to it ? it might be worth taking the lock ring off and see if the spindle will screw out. just a thought.
It doesnt seem to be in contact with the pivot , it is seized too and i thought it would be easier to remove it once the pivot is out .
I wish i had a 14mm allen key to try to spin the pivot loose but i have a hummer so...
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23 minutes ago, no class said:
use a piece of aluminum or brass ..... the wood will absorb too much of the impact .
Thanks a lot for replying guys ,
i will attack the enemy pivot first thing in the morning with fury , anger and brutal force .
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31 minutes ago, Jaydee said:
Try using a mallet instead of a hammer. Less chance of damaging threads. It will move once you break the dry bond. Spray some penetrating oil on the bolt end to help beforehand. Then clamp a vice-grips on the bolt head and wiggle it out the rest of the way.
I will use a piece of wood between the hummer and the pivot i have allready soaked it in wd 40 , so no messing with the castle nut right?
Thanks for replying Jaydee
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750w 95 swingarm in 92 1100 slingshot frame
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Its 1100 the scale i used is a shit one though i must buy a proper one and do it again .
BTW i got the linkage , it's the correct one sadly my k6 shock is too long but the oem shock fits fine .