HWB

Heres the specs, 748 D,ot head ported with flush cut guides on 1127 barrels cams timed at 105°/105° 38mm brand new 38 flatties with ramair ontop 55mm velocity stacks.pingel dual output. Dyna 2000 ignition set at true 40° on degree wheel, ohlins rear, adjustable bones, yosh full system (clears the sump, had ot for 13years+ now) bridgestone r10r set, EK chain well maintaned had about 10k kms on it so fairly new, brand new silicone spark wires. Domino grips, barracuda light weight bar ends, hayabusa 2018 master clutch, gsxr 2014 master brake, earls front braided brake lines, earls braided clutch line. And some stickers for added hp

Just wondering my bike is vibrating after a new build. I dont not take the engine out of the frame so there are no loose engine mount bolts, vibration is pretty strong to the point when i come off the bike my hands are all tinkly and still with feeling of vibration, under accel my whole head vibrates and my vision sometimes gets fuzzy because of it. Mighy it be cams ? Or is it just like that bcz of the hi comp build and the way the cams are timed ? I dont think flatslides doe tgat either..right ?

So what fuel are you using ? Race fuel ?

Gix, you think on my setup 40 deg is ok or much ? I reckon ur setup has hi comp if u run 40 and ur good means its kinda safe ?

Engine specs: 1127 barrels, ported 748 D ot head with flush valve guides, cams set at 105° 105° Rs 38s with 55mm velocity stacks, yosh full system. Today i installed a dyna 2000 on and was wondering what degrees do you guys run ? I set it at 36° and on advance curve 2, rpm limiter at 10.5k might set it a bit higher tho. I only started the bike for like 20 seconds and called it a day, i did realise the rpms were quite high so i dont know if the advance made the rise or if i should check other causes ANYWAY.... can anyone tell me whats the stock rotor have as for degrees so i can set a baseline ? Is the stock rotor 40° or what. And also what do you recommend concerning degrees and curves. I know a dyno is the best most accurate solution here but its just not possible for the moment. Cheers and thanks for any help

The issue only started after engine rebuild, i used the bolt of the flywheel to install degree wheel. Only after that did the issue appear

Gsxr 1100... starter motor works perfectly when bike is cold. Once it warms up and you come to turn on it wont work. It makes a turning sound like ita turning all by itself and not engaging rhe flywheel. What could cause this, ive been left starnded twice already

Sounds like exhaust cam related

Gsxr 1127 block, 748 d.ot head cams (same as 1100) 05 octane fuel. Wynns says 1 bottle treats 60 liters of fuel adds 2 octane points. Did the rule of 3, poured the result in the tank. (Full reservoire) stock ignition, carbs are 38 flatslides with velocity stacks (50mm) if cr is 12.1 it should not ping on 95 octane right ? Even less with octane booster

D.ot head ported and skimmed ever so slightly to remove scratches about 0.4mm on 1127, cometic mls gasket cams set at 105°\105°. Did not calculate compression ratio but cylinder compression test is as follows : 175psi 180 psi 180 psi 180 psi, i guess it has more to do with cam timing more than static compression. Fuel is 95, adding 125 ml of Wynn's on a full tank. Cant hear kock but it might be occuring at high rpm, also flatslides rattle is confusing me. The thing is engine is heating up quite alot, and that right there is a telling sign if knock isnt happening now it will happen eventually. Trying to save the engine. Im tgrowing an afr from AEM on it and taking her out later this week, maybe if its a bit lean( which i doubt) i can make the engine cooler by adding fuel, will also put cooler spark plugs to reduce heat, im also installing a head cooler. All of this to reduce heat but i want to know if knock is occurring or not.

TLRs name of the video ? Link maybe ?

I know how its mounted on engines that already come with a knock sensor. It obviously is mounted in its bung that came cast from the factory. I was asking how can i fit it on an engine that did not come with one, was seeing if anyone did it before and so where did they mount it. I also said i dont want it to control timing as im not going to overcomplicate things and f*ck about just to make something cool. I only need it to indicate knock presence. So if anyone has done this before and can share some wisdome! Cheers

Any idea where would be optimal to mount ? How is this done really

Has anyone here added a knock sensor to their bike ? Im thinking of a way to install one on my high comp build. Also wondering how it would cope with the rattling of the flatslides. Is this even possible to do ? Im not saying i wanr to relay it to the ignition or anything (tho that would be cool) just need it to tell me if knock is occuring. Flatslides rattle is confusing me and i dont want to damage the newly built motor. Cheers

Not worth it ! ill just pressure wash and pressure dry. Cheers

Flatslides 38, i heard they had a mesh filter behind the float needle ? Need to clean those but the float pin wont budge on any of the 4 ! Whats up with that ? How do you replace float needles anyways if the bowls dont come off

Ok so i sent Earls an email last week and still no response. I just wanted to know if the 19 row cooler they offer will fit my bike with fairings on. Has anyone got an idea ?

Yea i figured if it clears the headers it wont clear the wheel, hoping the 19 row cooler wont need much wrenching and benching but will be difinetly easier than bottom mounted one for sure.

Ok so this is the plan, im gonna get a 19 row main cooler to replace the stock one, still dont know between curved or straight. I really hope it fits without interfering with the fairings, then in case it needs more cooling ill add a 6 row one at the very bottom. In terms of fitment, curved or straight ? An6 or 8

Dup, do you know if other 1000s models have also the same fittings or is it just a k5 thing

Isnt that designed for water cooling ?

Any mods to the seat ? How efficient is it really in that spot ? Wouldnt a front mounted one be better ?

Carbs are brand new btw

Well the whole build is 'used' the dot head obviously used cranks used valves used, bottom end used, pistons everything.. i broke it in a bit before kicking the shit out of it to be honest, ran hard for a good 15 minutes, high rpm low gear, might be foolish of me but considering all parts were already married before. I did change all seals and gaskets as ine should, fresh oil and thats about it. Carbs are rs38 stock main jets and stock everything except for 50mm velocity stacks with no filter as for the time being cz i need to see the accelerator pump nozzle and dial accordingly. I tried to give an ear for detonation by riding on 5th at low speed all i could hear was the crackling of the slides. Can anyone point me to a good cooler that WORKS and FITS with my fairings ? I will do a spark plug check later and post pics hoepfully no indication of knock will appear, or at least if knock is occuring i would like to be able to see to confirm

98 octane fuel, head was 0.4mm skimmed so i guess it isnt much, definitely interested in a head cooler or a bigger main cooler, im planning on keeping the stock fairings, any big main coolers you reccommend ? Also where would you fit the head cooler.