gorbys
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Posts posted by gorbys
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I ended up cutting the pressed portion of the cable and sleeve off and then squeezed the remainder of the sleeve shut in a vice.
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If its can based its gonna be difficult without a can i/O module to provide it with correct signals.
If it's just regular analog signals then it's just a matter of providing them and providing them correctly I.e speedo pulses and tacho pulses
This is just my thinking though
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Blend/blind? Idk, anyways, I'm moving to some modern instrumentation and hence I don't need the Tacho drive cable and need a way to eliminate it without oil spewing out of my engine.
Anyone done this and how did you do it?
I tried a quick search but only got posts about final drives
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I am aware of the geometry changes that swapping forks and suspension often presents. The stock gs is about 27° and I believe I put mine at about 25° to put it in line with the gsx1400 and bandits for a bit more nimble/quicker steering if I remember correctly it's been more than 4 years since I did the swap and since then it's just been stashed away in a corner
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39 minutes ago, Niloc said:
marving have flat connectors. alternative is to have a drag pipe that wraps alongside the engine. Got a V&H sidewinder on mine.
Yes might have been marving!
I did try jacking up the rear now and 35mm in the rear equated to about 30mm extra ground clearance on the front of the headers.
So I could always go for 360 or 370mm rear shocks but that would alter the swingarm angle and probably make the chain rub the swingarm constantly wouldn't it?
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17 hours ago, wraith said:
Forks are 720mm (didn't think they where that size) and I've got 120mm ground clearance.
I have got the rear kicked up by about 30mm but I don't think if I dropped that to a standard height I'd lose that much clearance.
You could always (just to see, experiment) un-bolting your rear shocks end with a jack under the rear part of the frame (cross member under swing arm pivot) and lift the frame up and see what difference you get.
120mm from ground to exhaust that's crazy?! Even if I jacked up my rear I would never get that much
We'll see how it goes, I did find a 4-1 with a flat collector so I'm thinking about buying it, was a merkin or something like that
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19 hours ago, wraith said:
This is my gs1000 with sv650 forks,I will get the length of forks and ground clearance I've got tomorrow
Thanks.
On another note I might have measured my forks wrong by a cm, it seems they are 71.5 and not 73cm...
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I assure you it is exactly as it was when it came off my 2007 Sv1000s. Maybe it looks weird because it doesn't have the brake discs and fender?
The pictures I have attached is from 4 years ago when I swapped to gsxr's on the SV and put those on this.
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Sv1000 forks are 730mm, I know the gsx1400 forks are longer and same diameter so would be a straight swap but hard to find over here as well as the gsxr1100 forks. So this is basically what I have to work with.
I have a couple of pics here you can see how low the exhaust is.
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Yeah they're shorter than stock probably but not any shorter than other popular conversions like the gsxr and such. So someone must have some experience with this.
I know the gsx1400 fork stanchions are ca 50mm longer so swapping to a gsx1400 would net me a higher front end but shouldn't the rear shock length be extended as well if you did that?
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78'GS750 with Sv1000s fork swap and b12 rear swinger. Harris 4-1 exhaust.
I have none. Well okay I have some, about 55mm from the work bench up to the collector as it sits now. Subtract from that whatever sag from me straddling it and I'll probably beach on the first speedbump. So is anyone else with similar mods having issues with ground clearance and did you do anything to help it?
I guess the obvious alternative is to swap the exhaust for a 4-2-1 but I really like the Harris exhaust even though its brused and battered after my mum falling over countless times
ads to the character of the bike.
Is it true the gsx1100 engines are taller? I'm putting one in this coming winter, If so how much and does this account to increase ground clearance?
Another thing I was thinking was making new engine mounts to raise the engine higher up in the frame?
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I used Eastwood chassi black extreme when i did my frame. It's held up good I'll admit, I've even used it for some suspension and chassi bits for my datsun...
But now that I have to redo the frame I'm thinking about powder coating it in stead.
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3 hours ago, Poldark said:
Forty years ago, professional race teams used this frame, right? What deficiencies did they find in the factory frame, and how did they reinforce it? Yes, modern tires and suspension will apply forces a little differently than the old stuff, but a street bike is normally not ridden as hard as a race bike. There's also the issue of diminishing gains. Some benefit should be gained by modest reinforcement, but we could over-do it with extra tubes, gussets, etc and end up with an excessively heavy frame. Even if we eliminate every potential weak spot in the frame, but there will still be other weak spots, namely the rider. Hit that stationary object at 50 mph, even if the frame could sustain it, the rider should expect to be severely damaged.
Many good points here. I would have loved to see a 750 frame done by pros but all my searching leads me back to this page and the katana brace guide.
7 hours ago, gs7_11 said:It's perfectly stable well into 3 figure speeds on bumpy twisties.
Whatever you do, unless you've done the testing and maths to prove it adds anything, it's just for looks anyway. I don't think the GS750 frame has an issue, personally...
Well, mine wasn't exactly confidence inspiring doing the ton. Squirmy I would say. And that wasn't bad suspension tyres or bearings as they where all new.
And if it's just for looks I find it odd that even suzuki added bracing on the later models gsx's and bigger gs bikes. The one between the downtubes and over the swingarm being two examples.
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2 hours ago, vizman said:
The only force that’d fold that via the forks is hitting something stationary at about 50 mph,
So basically riding any B-road or mountain pass here in Norway then?
11 minutes ago, 370steve said:If you can work out a better way and still manage to get your tank on, then well done, but with the tank mounts where they are i didnt really see any other way.
all the other frames shown are GSX, which dont have the same mountings!!!
That's why I posted in the first place to get some feedback since all the guides tend to the gsx.
Anyways, isn't the point of bracing the headstock like this to prevent lateral or twisting motion?
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7 hours ago, no class said:
..... I removed the stamped steel plate in the headstock area as it is hollow and in some way will flex more than welding the gusset tubes directly to the upper frame tube . I personally prefer tubing over flat plate for any gussets where frame stiffening is required .... as tube is more rigid than a flat plate .
Yes that is the optimal way, but like I said in my first post it interferes with the tank mounting on my frame. So I have to look at alternatives to get the same effect
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Thanks, the only thing about that is it doesn't have AS a direct path to the top of the headstock as is optimal I think? I have no idea if it has anything to say in practical use though! I'm sure anything is better than nothing??
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Hi! New on this forum, thought I'd join so as to get your opinions since you guys are far more experienced than I am.
I'm working on my 78 GS750 which I'm fitting a an sv1000s fork, a bandit swingarm with twin ohlins shocks on, and I have begun stiffening the frame as per the katana scheme found on this site, now everythings cool except for the headstock area because the way it's outlined on the katana means it interferes with the rubber thingy that the fuel tank mounts to on the older 750. So I have thought of a couple of things:
So A is how the katana picture is done, B is something I could do with a steel plate easily without any tank clearance issue, same with C and I am pretty sure I could get away with D as well If I moved the coils a little bit. What do you think? I think D would be best?
I have 12 and 15mm tubing to do this, is 12 sufficient? I read that a half inch tubing was adequate for a lot of this stuff and 12 is the closest. (I'm using thicker 24mm tubing for the swingarm area)
Where to install oil temp sensor?
in Air Cooled
Posted
Just wondering if anyone has a good idea of where to put the sensor that came with my new taco/speedo gauge?
Its a 1/8npt sensor, I don't think there's any place to tap into? Maybe the place where you measure oil pressure? Would need an adaptor though.
Oil pan? Is it deep enough to drill and tap on the sides of it?
Any other ideas ?