gorbys
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Posts posted by gorbys
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You can also get license plate bolts with built in leds. I have two of them that I'm putting on my gs
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Last round with the starter gas turned out negative for vacuum leaks.
Is there something I should try to lubricate on the throttle linkage assembly?
I'll have some days off now so I'll look into the matter.
I'm thinking rebalancing the carbs.
Disconnect the throttle cable and see if that makes it close properly.
Degrease and clean linkage and movable parts, lubricate.
I assume I might have to revisit needle settings and idle screw adjustments too
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10 minutes ago, wraith said:
Could be the reason for the idling being all over the place, just very bad balance carbs
I'm not gonna rule out the possibility but to be honest this feels like a mechanical issue. Like if you manage to turn the adjuster to find that "sweetspot" it'll happily sit at 1000-1100 rpms all day until you touch the throttle. Give it a rev and it might settle down again but most times it'll hang at 1600 or 1900 or somewhere in the region. Sometimes it'll sit there for a little while and then come down. It's like the return spring is too weak or there's just some crud or other shit preventing it from closing those last few mikrometers...
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12 hours ago, Isleoman said:
On my modern bike it's usually the hand grip on the throttle tube is rubbing against the plastic housing. Have to pull the grip outward till there is 1/16" clearance.
Disconnect the throttle cables at the carbs and see if it idles smooth.
Good tip! I'll try that next time.
11 hours ago, wraith said:Try disconnecting the throttle cable, might be a lot of old crud in the cable.
You've set the valves before balance the carbs I take it, think you said you had in your other post.
Correct, I've also double checked them recently just to make sure.
Speaking of balancing carbs I did try to balance the carbs earlier but that was before I knew about the air leaks. I assume I might need to do that again now if the air leak issue is resolved?
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Basically a copy/paste of what I wrote in my thread about intake rubbers but might be better to keep the two issues separate.
So I've been having trouble obtaining steady idle as mentioned. Now I can get a steady idle but not a low steady idle. Like I set it at 1100, give it a few revs and now we're at 1900! Or it'll go down to 1100 again and then go lower and eventually die.... Its like there is no in-between and finding that sweet spot is super hard.
So in anger while my idle was revving up I stuck my thumbs on the throttle linkage either side and pretty much forced it shut. And voila, low and steady idle... I let go of the linkage and it holds the low idle for a little bit then starts creeping up again. So there is definitely something going on with the linkage/throttle assembly as well... Anyone have some ideas ?
It's like it won't stay closed enough
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New clamps. Still bottoming out.
However, I discovered something today that is also problematic and may have been throwing me off. So I've been having trouble obtaining steady idle as mentioned. Now I can get a steady idle but not a low steady idle. Like I set it at 1100, give it a revup and now we're at 1900! Or it'll go down to 1100 again and then go lower and eventually die.... Its like there is no in-between and finding that sweet spot is super hard.
So in anger while my idle was revving up I stuck my thumbs on the throttle linkage either side and pretty much forced it shut. And voila, low and steady idle... I let go of the linkage and it holds the low idle for a little bit then starts creeping up again. So there is definitely something going on with the linkage/throttle assembly as well... Anyone have some ideas?
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But the rubbers are brand new(oem suzuki). The clamps are old. So based on what you guys are telling me then the clamps are probably too big then.
I'm gonna try order some new ones.
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
Are you sure you have the correct clips for the bike? The correct rubber/clip combo is designed to work best as they tighten up nicely but it's impossible to overtighten and crack the rubbers As Tony states, jubilee style clips can be easily overtightened causing your expensive new rubbers to crack. It sounds like you have the wrong clips so that when fully closed they still don't grip the rubbers enough. EFEs have the largest OEM carbs for aircooled bikes so you may have EFE clips or even clips from another make bike. Alternatively if you have pattern rubbers, the rubbers may have slightly thinner walls than OEM so the correct clips don't tighten up enough when they reach the limit.
I've read this on another page as well.
My oem clips can bottom out, like I can tighten them until both ends touch. Is that correct or are they too big? In my mind it's the latter...
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4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
'Tis very odd then!
Correct carbs? I'm guessing they would be 34's but even with 36's they should seal, even when stretched!
56 minutes ago, wraith said:Daft question, you've not got smaller carbs in for the rubbers?
Say bandit or gsxr 36mm carb rubbers with 34mm carbs?
I can only assume, all the ancillaries came in a box along with the engine.
The original rubbers where hard as a rock and that's why I bought new ones. Ordered them from wemoto for a GSX1100sz model. Which should be the engine I have.
Should they slip on easy or should there be a noticeable resistance?
They go on and off both the intake runners and the carbs easily.
11 minutes ago, eddiegsx said:You suggested in your opening post that you have traced the problem to the carb rubbers not sealing, by purchasing new ones can we assume you've eliminated that issue???
What was your original process of elimination? Would it be worth re checking everything again?
Sometimes even the most able amongst us (I'm certainly nowhere near that standard btw) can get bamboozled by a problem and overlook the obvious.
Just an observation so don't take offence. Good luck.
Thats how I found out, I originally sprayed starter fluid around the flanges and nothing happened so I went around in circles checking everything else, then just for the hell of it I went back again with the starter fluid and properly doused the flanges and after a few seconds the engine died.
New hose clamps made it better and for the first time since assembling this bike I could get a mostly stable idle. But the hose clamps I bought are probably doing more harm than good as they're too wide and are squeezing the rubbers off the runners and could potentially tear them
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13 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
OEM or pattern? rubbers. Wire clips unlikely to stretch so guessing poor rubbers?
Nope they're original suzuki parts
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4 hours ago, wraith said:
You can get stainless steel ones off the bay set of 8 for carb rubber inlet x4 and x4 for the air box side.
Some people will only use OEM, that's down to you.
What concerns me about oem is that I'm using oem now (altough x amount of years old) and they're not making brand new rubbers seal. If I buy new ones will they be any tighter? Could the old ones have stretched?
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4 hours ago, Joseph said:
Whats your setup ?
Gsx1100 engine with hindle exhaust and kn filters. Dynojet kit
2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:It's not the hose clamps - the OEM are designed for the job! - it's the rubbers, they go hard and eventually whatever clamp you use, they'll leak! You need some new ones to give a reliable seal.
The rubbers are brand new.
2 hours ago, TonyGee said:don't over tighten them as well as they can split the rubber
thats the none OEM ones by the way as they dont have a curved edge
That's why I removed the new ones I was concerned that could happen
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If I had the chance I'd definitely go restomod. Been wanting to do an es with USD forks and 17" wheels and other stuff ever since I sold my old one
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Been having some driveability issues and trouble getting a stable idle and I've traced it down to the hose clamps not being tight enough. (they're screwed in as much as possible but they are really old)
So I bought new universal hose clamps but they where to wide to fit in the grooves of the intake rubber and pretty much squeezed the rubbers of the intake pipes.
So now I'm wondering if I should look for other narrower type hose clamps or buy new oem ones? I'm just afraid new oem ones aren't gonna clamp down hard enough either... Or could the old ones have stretched over the years and that's why they can't seal my new intake rubbers?
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I was planning on doing it, even bought a triggerwheel from arttu. But my megasquirt was fried and noone can repair it so, still running carbs here... thinking about buying a speeduino ecu and a bosch coil module and just run ignition only for a start...
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16 hours ago, Wolf said:
Are the mounting rubbers hose over aluminum head port or rubber hose on a oval base with M6 bolts to head ?
If the latter is the "O" rings between head and manifolds good and capable of temps they go through?
It's the "hose" style
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21 hours ago, Wolf said:
That's a very good guide. I've usually referenced the one on the gs resources website.
I did in fact take them all apart again today to see if there was something I had overlooked or something wrong with the pilot circuit. But I didn't find anything special. What I did notice was the float level was a little bit higher than the 22.4mm of the service manual so I lowered it to spec.
I also found the clamps on the rubbers weren't fully screwed in so there was a tiny air leak on them all.
So with no air leaks, float level a little higher, and the needles raised a couple of notches the bike seems to run well, it doesn't hesitate when opening the throttle, acceleration is fine, transition is fine, cruising is fine.
Sound of the Harris 4-1 exhaust is amazing!
There is still a tiny(really minute) amount of hesitation/surging at low speed/low throttle (20-40kph) but nowhere near what it initially was. I'm gonna order the specified k&n filters for this DJ kit since I need new ones anyways and maybe it'll help, maybe it won't. Maybe I'll just have to live with it being like this, I've owned other bikes that have behaved this way(suzuki v-twins) and it's not really an issue overall...
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Username checks out at least....
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2 hours ago, no class said:
you could have made 1 run on a dyno to see your fueling and get it running proper…… fuckin’ about with needles and jets and mixture screws and trying to diagnose with plug inspections……
Yeah cause I wouldn't have to fuck around with needles and jets and mixture screws if it was on a dyno......
plugs chops are fine, they tell me what I need to know, I have a wideband O2 sensor if need be but for now what is that gonna tell me that I don't already know...
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54 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
you could try and wrap some tape round the filters just for a test and see if it runs better. it will confirm if its running lean.
One of the things I'm thinking about
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Okay so here's what's going on after today's test ride after installing the dynojet kit:
Still lean on the slow circuit. DJ instructions says mix screws should be 2.5t out from seated. I have them at 4 now and it's still stumbling/surging at low throttle sub 3-3500rpm's. Giving it some choke seems to clear it up slightly but not enough to stop it surging completely.
Acceleration : Stumbles/slow accel upon opening the throttle until you get higher in the rev range/get on the needle.
Cruising at 4-5000rpm:
Not surging, stable, plugs show maybe a slight tinge of a light beige. Definately leaner than the tan/brown you would hope to see.
Acceleration: it does, but doesn't pull as hard as I would think an 1100 would do.
Plug chop at 8k wide open throttle shows again, white plugs. To lean.
Following the DJ troubleshooting guide:
https://www.suzukicentral.com/threads/official-dynojet-troubleshooting-guide.69659/
A possible solution to the surging would be to raise the needle. And I can always try but how does that fix a problem with the slow circuit /pilot circuit? Is it the tapered design of the DJ needles that allows fuel to enter the venturi?
Also every other guide I've read about tuning carbs says to start with the main jet and make sure that's correct before addressing the needle, and lastly the pilot/mix circuit. And it's pretty clear here that the mains are to small if its lean at a wot pull, or is the needle still in play at 8k?
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50 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
Ah, the ‘Modifiers’ bugbear raises its head once more!
It’s the same old story. Keep the engine to the rear, to combat weight distribution, chain/swinger interface, and you then get header problems. Find a happy medium, Tony. Aim for the ‘sweet spot!’
Isn't that more of a thing with the oil cooled gsxr/bandit engines in gs frames?
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5 hours ago, TonyGee said:
thanks for that, so its best to start with the rear lower mounting point.
Here's what I had cut out, the rear ones are a fair bit longer than the stock ones since the engine is shorter. The front ones are almost the same as stock but with the engine side hole higher up to tilt the engine at the correct angle.
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Stock hose clamps doesn't clamp enough, false air leak.
in Air Cooled
Posted
Carb syncing is something I need to do/check again but I'm still waiting on my exhaust muffler to arrive from hindle as I don't fancy doing it with open exhaust in the middle of a crowded neighbourhood...
Also I mentioned this issue to the guy I'm dealing with at suzuki performance spares and got this back:
"Suzuki seem to have changed/substituted some of their inlet rubber clip part numbers recently and i have seen a similar issue before. they should not bottom out really."
So yeah, I probably have the wrong clamps even if they where ordered for my spesific engine.