gorbys
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Posts posted by gorbys
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Mikuni's being Japanese have metric threads, Dynojet being American will have Imperial / peculiar threads - draw your own conclusions! Tried it once and jet tightened up before fully done up so stuck with stock in stock and DJ with DJ!
Sure you didn't get the wrong jets? No issues seating them in the 1100 carbs and I just compared the spare ones I have to a genuine mikuni jet and threads are the same. Screwed them both into the bs32 carbs I have on the shelf no problems.
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6 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
DJ Mains won't fit in Mikuni Emulsion tubes. Most steel aftermarket pipes with chrome tubes will blue at first bend from head. And the Mains are flowing fuel up the emulsion tubes that is metered by the needle which never completely leaves the tube, so to say they are separate is incorrect.
What do you mean? I have dj mains in my 1100 with the stock tubes.
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49 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
they don't look to bad TBH !!!! a tad weak maybe, what are the carb settings right now ?
Weak? As in a weak spark?
Carbs are stock as far as I know, I'm gonna double check the main jet as I forgot to check size when I had it apart. But I'm pretty sure they're stock.
1 hour ago, slayer61 said:
White plugs are lean, yes. But, unless you did a proper "plug chop" you might be looking at the wrong circuit.
The main jets and the needle height both affect different throttle positions. The needle is out of the picture by the time the mains come in.
No i don't have new sparkplugs laying around so no not a proper plug chop. Just 30-40mins of high speed driving and wide open throttle pulls.
But in general I feel like it needs more fuel under wot. I realise in hindsight I should have tried some pulls while giving it some choke to see if it helped but one can't think of everything when you're freezing your balls off on a late night
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Hello folks!
I rescued a 1980 GSX750 last month from a garage where it had been sitting for the last 5-6 years... I cleaned the carbs and got it running, and now the fun begins...
Basically it starts and runs fine. But acceleration is sluggish. I rode it in anger on the backroads here for about 30-40 minutes and checked the plugs, 1-4 where white, 2-3 had a little bit more color but not much really.It pulls great from the get go but then as you roll on through a quarter to half throttle and beyond there's a noticeable change in behaviour as you get on the needle and main jet.
Twist the throttle from off idle and acceleration dips at 4k rpm. Every time. And from there on it accelerates but it feels lacking. Especially in higher gears.
So white plugs, blue pipes, lean condition right? I believe someone has swapped to a 4-1 exhaust but never rejetted. Because it should be rejetted right even if you still have the stock airbox and filter?
OR? Is shimming the needle an alternative?
Or in case of rejetting; I have a dynojet kit that I used on my 1100. I used the needles and the stage 3 jets, which means I still have three jet sizes left over in that box. Can I use those dynojets with the stock needles or is that a no go, I need proper mikuni main jets as long as I use the mikuni needle? -
Antilag on the streets? I'm thinking you'd be better off getting a properly sized turbo. Antilag eats turbine wheels, can crack manifolds and exhaust pipes and ruin exhaust valves for example. My Datsun has been off the streets for two years now with a broken engine. Was the ten seconds of pops and bangs and no-lift-shifting worth that? Probably not.
Anyways, there's a second option I didn't see here for anti lag and that's an electronic throttlebody. With that you can keep the throttlebody open on decel and retard timing and add fuel to make everything go bang in the exhaust. Don't know how easy it is to fit an etb on a bike though
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On 9/8/2023 at 3:24 PM, Reinhoud said:
I've got a Bandit swingarm too. Is yours also a 1000??
Just had to make bushes into the existing bushes.
Mine is originally a 750. Do you have a picture of how you mounted the upper shock mount?
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mine is a 1074, I believe its an 82 from what I know, it doesn't have a welded crank
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just curious about a stock gsx1100sz engine and a turbo. I've heard they break easily
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Bandit 1200 fits without mods. You need to machine adapters for the pivot bearings and bolt and weld on shock mounts.
Also I'd advise using a 170 tire instead of the bandits original 180 for better fram clearance...
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I was damn nervous when doing this, but it worked. And the 850 carbs used the same size pilot jet so I was able to swap it. Also found a pierced and worn membrane. Again the 850 carbs was used for spares but I swapped the needles since they weren't the same
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Thanks rijko for an excellent guide.
As of now I got it running last night, doesn't run good but it runs on choke. If I blipp the throttle it wants to die.
BTW. Does anyone know if the gs850 and gsx750 uses the same cv carbs?
I have a carb rack from my old 850 engine. I might just swap over instead if they're the same.
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I just got an 80' gsx 750 and naturally the carbs are caked from sitting to long. I did a quick driveway clean to get it running but it seems there has been people in there prevously as one pilot jet was almost stripped and another one was completely gone, there is nothing the flathead screwdriver can grab onto. So does anyone have a trick to get it out? I need to clean them properly.
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I bought a neglected kawasaki kx250 once where I couldn't get the feeler blade between the cam and shim bucket. I assumed 0 valve clearance and bought a shim to put me on the looser end of the scale but after fitting it it ended up being just over the minimum, which would suggest a negative valve clearance to start with. I don't know if that's how it works but that's what it was. And yes it ran.
I just did a vfr800 where two of the intake valves where 0.05 (supposed to be 0.13-0.19) and it also ran fine
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Starter clutch is gone or at least there's something wrong and I need to investigate but I can't get the rotor/flywheel nut loose for the life of me. I have the transmission in top gear, rear brake engaged and still the engine turns when I apply force to the breaker bar. I tried to make a tool to hold the flywheel but damn near lifted the entire bike off the ground instead of breaking it loose. I've tried an impact gun but that didn't help either. Any other tips? Might try to borrow a bigger impact...
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Would be interesting to compare these drawings to the ones I have for my gsx1100 into a gs750 frame swap. Perhaps they're the same?
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Best thing I ever did in this regard was to buy a big syringe and reverse bleed the system, filling it from the bleed niple to the mc. Highly recommended if you ever need to fill am empty system
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I run one on mine but I also run a regrec from Rick's motorsport designed with a lower 14.1V charge since I read overcharging them can be real bad. Pluss I needed a new one anyways. Replaced all connectors with new ones from vintage-connections as well.
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16 hours ago, redgs1000 said:
Had similar problem after fitting new points . Ended up making a bigger slot after that it starts easy and idles smooth, they weren't OE but were meant to be good quality
The thought crossed my mind but didn't have the appropriate tools at hand
On 7/13/2023 at 3:13 PM, gsxwill said:Just a thought could one of the condensers be braking down?
you'd still get spark but would not run correctly, my old gs550 suffered that a lot 
Seems to run alright under cruise and higher rpms.
The annoying thing about all of this is Dyna doesn't supply any spare parts, so if one sensor goes, you need to buy a hole new unit. Unless you can find a used one for spares
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5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
If there is only one lobe then there is a set of points missing LOL! Or you have two to many cylinders!
A Dyna S has a rotor with one magnet but two pick-ups 180 deg. apart - the same would be true if using points!
If no 2nd set of points there is nothing to fire the 2&3 coil - it shouldn't be working at all!
The dyna uses ONE magnet. It has TWO pickups. When it passes the left pickup, it triggers cyl 1-4 to fire. When it passes the right one it triggers cylinders 2-3 to fire.
The points ignition uses ONE lobe, and TWO points. When it passes and lifts the left point, it triggers cyl 1-4 to fire, then the lobe spins 180 degrees clockwise and lifts the right point triggering cyl 2-3 to fire.
Thats how it works in a waste spark system like the gs has.
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There's only one lobe on the rotor.
I checked the gap and it was to close, I adjusted it to 0.3mm and checked static timing with a test light and it helped but there's still a minor difference as 2-3 can't get within range. Checking timing with a timing light the timing seems to drift a bit. Idle isn't stable. There's pitting on the rotor lobe as well so I'm thinking I'll just have to fork out for a new Dyna set. Can't seem to find just the sensor
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My dyna ignition broke and I'm back to points. I can get 1-4 timed to the firing mark but then can't get 2-3 in spec, seems there's not enough adjustment. A guy on YouTube had the same problem and he said his points where to worn. So is it any truth to this? I don't have much experience with points.
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Not an efe but I run clipons on my gs and I don't find it to hard but I don't mind sportbike ergos either, and the wind resistance helps a bit at speed
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3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Got one sitting here with exactly that problem - minimal plate tooth wear on the actual hub, but steel insert is loose with visible gaps!
Thats what I saw on mine, there's visible gaps between the teeth when it's mounted on the axle shaft.
I've ordered a new one but it's about a 14 day delivery time.
I just hope that's the end of it, but why my luck.... We'll see...
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Bringing this back again now that I got a new second hand one, I've replaced the springs, there's no slack. But still it rattles. I noticed when I assembled it that there was considerable slack back and forth on the clutch hub sleeve, you could move it on the axle. So I'm thinking this might be where the rattle is coming from? I see you can still buy these so I assume it's a wear item?
When rocking it back and fort I hear the same sort of high pitched pings that I hear with the engine running
4-1, blue pipes, white plugs, poor acceleration...
in Air Cooled
Posted
One would assume so, I haven't heard anything about this when browsing the Web.
Anyways, browsing the dynojet pages I have found a kit for the 750 and I have checked the installation manual but unfortunately the jets recommended doesn't match the extra jets I have. So I have to buy new ones.
According to this guide I need to go up two sizes. https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/blogs/blog/how-to-rejet-your-cafe-racer-carburetor/
If my stock ones are 112.5 that would mean a 115 jet right? But should I buy a set of 117.5 just incase? I need to order from the UK so shipping takes a while.