gorbys
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Posts posted by gorbys
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I see wemoto is out of the R ones and sets of four sold on Eblag all have the same part number on all fours. So is there any difference? Cant I just flip two of them 180 degrees?
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Like if your just changing the cylinder foot gasket for example? Assuming everything is within spec
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14 hours ago, Isleoman said:
What's your budget? Are you doing the work? Parts estimate... pistons $550, cams $600, clutch $350, ignition $400, pipe $500, rockers $250, valve job with big valves $750, porting $500, gaskets $225, carbs $550, misc $250.
Tbh i hadn't set a limit as I didn't know what all of this would cost. But the more I'm looking into it the more I realise I might not have it in this years budget all the stuff I wanna do... So I might have to settle with just replacing the valve seals and refreshing gaskets and be content with a working stock engine for now. It's still 30hp over the standard 750 so I guess it ain't too bad.
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That's similar to the Harris 4-1 I have already which is seriously banged up and flattened underneath because it bottoms out. And that was on a stock bike. It's much lower now with the sv1000 forks so any staggered 4-1 collector is gonna bottom out and might send me flying off the road, not a risk I'm willing to take.
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59 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
Ca you post a photo of your Marving? I'm getting curious..
I haven't bought it yet. But my current Harris 4-1 is to low so I'm getting the flat type collector for ground clearance
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I'm putting a gsx1100 engine in my gs750, but it's a little rough and needs new valve steam seals at the very least before swapping it. I'm new to modifying these engines(only ever dabbled with turboed cars before) so I'm not sure what/where I can go.
Any tips on what works and especially where to get stuff is much appreciated. Preferably in the EU but worldwide works too.What I know is; the engine is a silver/grey 1100. It's stamped 107x cc(couldn't quite make out the last number through all the dirt). I'm thinking I want to soup it up a little, perhaps overbore it, slightly hotter cam etc... But I don't wanna go so crazy it's gonna affect driveability and reliability. So what are my options?
I have access to 95ron fuel in my hometown, 98 in the next town over(30min drive). My turbo datsun needs 98 so I'm not that worried about having to make fuel runs...
So what comp rate works? is this a good plan: Suzuki GSX1100 1168 cc 10,25:1 comp
I was planning on an efi conversion but I'm not gonna afford that this season but I have the trigger kit and might get a speeduino ecu to drive the ignition until I can afford the TB's and the rest of the efi system.
Where to get camshafts and what would be a good cam to go with for street? I've heard about the G3 grind being good found these web cams on suzuki performance spares
Quotewebcam stage 1
340 lift, 240 duration @ 50 thouwebcam G3 SPEC
0,345 254@50 G3 SPEC
Same with valves, bigger ones? I've read you can go up to 28.5-24 mm with stock seats.
Exhaust is gonna be a marvin 4-1
I think that covers it....
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I swapped to a lithium specific regulator from rick's motorsport to be a little on the safe side.
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If only I had seen this post two days ago as I had my swingarm out. But I might still have the drawing with the measurements lying around somewhere in the shed, I'll check
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25 minutes ago, Mouse said:
Hi
I am looking to do the same with my 78 GS750 and have found the same problem, one of my thoughts at the moment is to have a ally extension piece made to space out the cover and then use a longer pushrod.
Can i ask what swingarm and wheel are you using to need a 15mm offset ??
Mouse.
That's certainly an option but check that your gear selector rod is also long enough for you to do that.
Bandit 1200 swingarm and 5.5J wheel
I'm not gonna do anything more about this as I have an 1100 engine sitting in storage that's going in but It would be nice to see if someone else had solved this
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37 minutes ago, Askamaskinservice said:
This is my GSX1100EF with ALFA pipe and GSXR750 -88 frontfork 43mm stanchions and as you can se even shorter than yours. Still i got 115mm clearence.
3 hours ago, Askamaskinservice said:Can you take a picture from the front of the bike so we can see your clipons, i guess you have them ontop of your tripple trees and thats why you loose an extra 50 or 60mm.
//Hasse.
Nope, my forks sit flush with the top tripple
3 hours ago, Joseph said:I fitted 600 SRAD forks (SHORT !!!) to my Katana, with 18 inch slab rim.
Bear in mind diameter of rim doesn't necessarily influence the diameter of the wheel, it the wall ratio of the tyre thqt does that
I have the marving 4 into 1 exhaust you mentioned precisely to ensure good clearance.
Looks good, would seem like my best option
37 minutes ago, Askamaskinservice said:This is my GSX1100EF with ALFA pipe and GSXR750 -88 frontfork 43mm stanchions and as you can se even shorter than yours. Still i got 115mm clearence.
And precisely as you did i got my frontwheel in the frontwheelholder.
Yeah, but look at how close to the engine that exhaust is, the harris exhaust has several cm of clearance between the sump and the pipes. If they where as close to the sump as your exhaust is this thread probably wouldnt have seen the light of day
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So as you can see from the part picture, the cover is not just a cover, it also holds the clutch release mechanism (which is on the right side on the gs/gsx-1xxx and therefore of no concern on that engine) inside the little cover.
That part overlaps the sprocket, with little clearance, so if you move the sprocket and chain outwards, it will foul on that part of the casing. So in my case there's aprox 15-16mm clearance between the cover and the engine casing it's supposed to sit flush with.
Red is the casing for the clutch release and green is sprocket.
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So today was gonna be the day I got to test my new build, just had to refit the sprocket and clutch release cover and refit carbs. But no. The new sprocket and chain fouls the cover, there isn't enough room for an offset chain and sprocket.
I'm running a 15mm offset sprocket.
So is it not possible or do you modify the cover by cutting out the clutch release portion of the cover and rewelding it further outwards or what? Pictures would be nice
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On 8/21/2020 at 11:08 PM, fab said:
no they won't sag that much, you could make up longer spacers to bring the height up but you will loose some suspension travel with a shorter spring.
I asked around on the sv forums, Suzuki changed some stuff in the forks ca 2005 incl spring lenght so they where correct length for my year forks
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On 7/19/2020 at 8:40 PM, gorbys said:
Thanks.
On another note I might have measured my forks wrong by a cm, it seems they are 71.5 and not 73cm...
Update on this as I just dismantled my forks to replace the seals and bushings and i measured my fork springs to be 260mm long, the service limit is 290mm. So I'm guessing they're lowering springs or can springs actually sag that much? The forks have done no more than 12000km's of driving.
measured the forks fully extended and they measured 73cm from center of axle to top of fork tube like they should be -
GS850, but I'll probably have to blind it on my gsx1100 engine as well. The plug should fit both?
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Would there be any benefit to making a backplate to this so you could mount it on a engine stand (for car engines) so it could be rotated for example?
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Yeah there is a plug on the right side of the engine. So I can either fit one there or in the sump plug. Adapters are plenty full on Eblag and such.
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Condom or a plastic bag over the leg, get some fork oil on it and slide the seal over.
As for the damper assembly, tough lesson that. Hope you get it fixed. But next time keep that drill as far away as you can from anything but wood screws and IKEA furniture.
Get yourself an impact wrench and that bolt is out easily every time. I'm surprised no one has mentioned it in the earlier posts.
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1 hour ago, Poldark said:
Spacer goes on top of the long spring, inside the fork tube, before installing the top cap. Make the spacers a little longer if you want more spring pre-load for a firmer ride. 46mm: that's a heavy duty fork. You have a source for them?
Sv1000 and gsx1400. 72cm and 77/78 ish cm's.
I know where the spacer goes I was more worried about the rebound adjuster and how that will be connected if you install longer tubes
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On 7/28/2020 at 1:15 AM, Poldark said:
You would need to add a spacer. It could be made from metal tube or even PVC pipe. The length of the spacer would be the difference in length between the old and new tube.
That's understood, but what about the rebound adjuster? That's connected to the damper rod assembly thingy isn't it? It's been awhile since I disassembled one of these forks so I don't remember how it all connected
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4 hours ago, Poldark said:
Would slightly longer forks give the needed ground clearance? What size fork tubes: 41mm? A whole bunch of different H-D models ran 41mm Showa forks. The tubes may be able to swap out with slightly longer ones. There are plenty of used H-D fork tubes and aftermarket replacement tubes available. Take a look at "Forks by Frank" in the US. They've been in business for over 50 years and will make nearly any length fork tubes for nearly any motorcycle model.
Sure. The forks are sv1000's so they are 46mm. The gsx1400 uses the same forks only they are longer so they would have been optimal but you can't find them over here.
I can get new longer tubes but won't the spring and damper assembly be to short then?
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Eww... Just got this reply from a seller.
"we do not have in-stock, Marving are closed for the whole of August so despatch date would be approx. mid/end of September,"
Guess I'm just gonna f'n send it then
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Yeah I though about buying a sump plug with 1/8 npt hole in it.
I have a acewell tacho with digital speedo/tacho/temp/volt/odometer.
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Sorry, its the 8 valve 850 gs engine.
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Time for a head job? Or just keep grinding?
in Air Cooled
Posted · Edited by gorbys
So I've got the head cleaned, and now I've started to lap the valves. Intake valves came out good. But the exhaust has some pitting still after a couple of rounds with coarse paste. I measured the ribbon on the valve to be about 0.97-1 mm and the service manual says 0.9-1.1mm
So do I keep grinding or do you think its to far gone?