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Mine has both high and low beam on both bulbs. US spec. The hi/lo bar switch is used to power a relay coil to switch the voltage to each filament due to the amperage draw of the filaments do as no to burn up the hi/lo switch. If you are using LEDs the amperage is considerably less. I've got some excellent SIS wire (tin plated copper, high jacket temp rated) that is perfect for wiring bikes if you need some, free of course. Im just down the road from you. Text me if interested.

Thanks for the input. I may change jetting a bit more and see how it feels. Sure would be nice to have a dyno to really nail down the A/F ratio to HP gains. That info really intrigues my tiny mind. As of lately that bike is more garage art than anything.

I'm running K&N on my 750 M with no issues. Dynojet Stage 1 with 120 mains. Stock header and custom mid pipe with fresh packed Vance and Hines Supersport. Dyna 2000 ignition. Bike runs great and jetting was set up using an Autometer wideband O2. Idles at 14.5, revs at 14.0 loaded. Ran the same pods on my previous 1100 N. Same basic mods. No issues.

I thought that was where the Bluetooth adapter connected. USB 2.5 port?

I modified mine to mount the AirTech fender as it did not hug the tire tight enough. Removed some material as well. I felt the brace was needed as it is also has the brake caliper hose retainer loops on each side.

Does someone want to rename this thread? I suggest Tewl Tawk.

Guys, every tool is a hammer, except a screwdriver, and that's also a chisel. This pic is appropriate.

Hope that GSX has training wheels. Seriously dude, be careful. Read the manuals, understand the mechanics behind what you are doing.

@Detrailershave a spot on the mid pipe to weld in an O2 sensor bung? Ideally 4 to 5 inches from the header collector. Install a wideband sensor and controller to help verify effectiveness of jet changes. The "seat of the pants" method is not too precise and dyno runs can be expensive. You can get great feedback from an O2 readout. Of course if you have the bucks a dyno run is best.

Amazing work!! Really diggin' the black set. Great contrast and the sanded Mikuni script, sweet!

Good stuff there.

Lead acid type battery? AGM type? Lithium type?

After a 12 hour float charge, load test the battery if possible to verify its load carrying capability. Re install in the bike. Start and idle engine. Measure and record DC voltage and DC amperage at idle. Measure and record DC voltage and DC amperage at 4500 rpm. You should see voltage increase from idle to 4500. Amperage should not increase much during this same test. Carb or fuel injection?

Is the battery older? Was it on a trickle charger prior to being used in the bike? Was its state of charge strong?

You need a meter that clamps around the battery positive cable that measures amperage one similar to this to collect amperage reading.