mark35gun

you want ideally gsxr 750/1100 l/m forks they are the longest at 770mm AFAIK, these will give plenty of ground clearance, much less hassle than raising engines? etc

looks ace, what are the calipers off wee man if you don't mind me asking

Not sure about the 170 tyre, it might go on the rim but not well i think from memory, it might upset the already piss poor handling, either way i think 170 is too big for a 4" rim

The two twinshock arms will be coming up for sale soon

unless the airleak was massive it wouldn't stop it firing on no 3, just weak mixture, the bigger the leak the weaker it becomes (relatively) make sure the float isn't stuck open on no 3 if it is stuck open it will cause that cylinder to flood. change all o rings, there should be 4, 1 on each of the inlet rubbers replace and make sure they are well sealed to the cylinder head. have you checked for a spark on no 3? a good test for airleaks once you have put it back together and running is to spray wd40 or similar all over the inlet rubbers while running, if the revs raise/alter, then there,s a leak, no need to lag it, just a bit will do. if you are careful its possible to pinpoint the leak. sounds like no 3 is flooding though.

cheers matey, only reason i ask is this new arm i have has 19mm holes in the adjusters, don't suppose you have one kicking about in your stores???

does anyone know the diameter and overall length of the rear wheel spindle please

quick fetch a doctor , this man is obviously mad

i will measure the offset, but i think its about 10mm, sprocket carrier is blandit 12

you can, as on mine bandit 12 5.5 wheel in stock arm, and you can definitely keep forks, i'm just not sure which model to use for a donor

Hi, welcome to OSS bandit 12 5.5 straight spoke, will go in the swingarm with maybe some minor grinding to the inner seams, offset front sprocket, 180 tyre maybe will maybe wont, dependent on the make 170 will go with clearance, i know cos that's whats in mine. front i am not too sure of, i normally swap out the entire front end for some later suzuki ones which is a piece of piss by the way, a gsxf front wheel will go into the original forks. someone will be along who knows look in the builds section there's plenty in there for you to read. Bike looks tidy and in one of the best colour combos start a build thread and post pics, everyone likes pics RTFR, and never refer to gsxf's as Kat's

Like gixer1460 says don't worry about it too much, new small inline filter will flow plenty, get it running properly first, however having the carbs off and give them a good clean out is always good advice, ultrasonic them would be preferable, 3 years stood at least, prob going to be shit / varnish in the carbs, this will cause problems. best advice i can give is don't skip the carb cleaning step, it will save you hassle later on.

There is a misunderstanding here, all the vacuum ports, one per cylinder, either on the inlet tract or carburettor body, or both, should be blocked off securely, except the one that is being used for the vacuum tap. if any/ all are left open or leaky then it will cause air to be drawn into the cylinders that is not metered by the carburettors, this means the bike will run very weak, and will generally run roughly, it may not even run at all. I have known the vacuum part of the fuel tap to be faulty allowing neat fuel to be drawn into whichever cylinder it is attached to ( usually 2nd from left), the pipe which is used for the vacuum tap should be fitted securely and be airtight. these should not be confused with the breather tubes which need to stay open as dealt with in the above posts

no no i meant block off any ports except the one that is being used for the tap, sorry i wasn't clear at all

Thanks mate,i would be much obliged, you must have a big shed full of bits i don't suppose you would know of any threads where this has already been done, placement of brackets etc ?i did a search earlier but it didn't bring much up, to give me an idea of pitfalls/ things to watch out for/ bracket placement and the like

fear not chaps, it will be staying monoshocked, i was just thinking outside the box, maybe a bit to far for the efe at least, i will sell the other two, i sort of had to have all three to get one if that makes sense. both the twin shock ones will i think fit gs/ earlier gsx very well, in fact one is for a inazuma 1200, which i think are the same sizes as a blandit, which i think goes straight in the earlier gsx's. Anyway now i have to source a gsxr 1100l/m/n, shock, linkages etc, i will place an ad in wanted.

the vacuum

if you are referring to the link pipe or "c" in your pic you don't block them,they are supposed to be open, they do want some pipe on them though long enough to route out of the way, just make sure they don't get kinked or blocked.

and another mock up, comments anyone?

whichever cylinder you use, make sure all the others are blocked off securely @gixer1460 is right, they shouldn't be linked

easy, you have done it in your first post vacuum should be on the inlet side, dont matter which cylinder, i an not sure that c should be linked though

very quick check of wheel/arm kinky, methinks btw i thought the twinshock/efe would get some comments

do you mean vacuum pipe? or breather, some pics would help welcome to oss by the way

don't see why really, whatever floats your boat.......

just picked these up all new and unused couldn't resist quite like the idea of twinshocking my efe with one??? possibilities,possibilities, anyone comment on this???