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Posts posted by Leblowski
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9 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
Pics are acceptable, smoke will probably be visible anyway.
But videos are better
Yep a bit of smoke, it stood for about 10 years so i will take in for a gentle ride, lets see if the smoke clearing. If not the a crankoverhaul and new pistons is probably the next thing
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We have a Runner !
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So
Started working on this little bike, it looks untouched it had the usual maintence but it hasnt been abused.
Started with the usual stuff, forkseals, tyres,chain,caliperseals, carb overhaul,brakelines and other engine seals wich looked suspicious.
Parts are very hard to find or not to find so i had to buy imitation for some parts
@Jellywas so kind to ultrasonic clean the carbs for me.
Downside still not running as the supplier of carb parts did not deliver what i asked for.
Luckily i found a bellypan and an imitation seatcowl to complete the bike.
Keep ya updated!
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6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
So you changed multiple sets of coils and no doubt plugs also but problem was cured by using stick coils . . . . . . which don't have . . . . .
Plug wires ! Probably, there be yer problem? Its always the bit that can't be faulty, but usually is.
Well if thats the case then of all the 5 sets the wires and or caps would have been faulty wich could be the case but i think not.
Thing is all of the sets where old and came from bikes i took apart in the past.
As i mentioned all of the sets where measured and gave proper resistence as prescibed in the workshop manual
I even testend leakage from the leads and caps in the dark spraying with a plantspray wich did not gave any suggestion that would be the problem.
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For those wich are interested...
I have solved the issues on this bike and it runs perfect now.
What was wrong ??
I almost threw the towel but decided to give it one more try, as i thought it was an electrical issue i started measuring al elektrical components including the coils once more just to be shure.
In all those years i am spannering on old Suzuki's i thought this aint gonna win from me.
So after measuring and testing the only problem could be the coils, but the resistance from them where spot on hot and cold.
I have about 5 sets of coils so i tried another set wich where measured and tried them still the samen issue.
After trying 5 sets wich all gave factory spec resistance hot and cold i still had the same issue.
So i thought wtf is going on here, i rembered having a set of 750 stick coils somewhere > sourced them installed them..
Damn the issue was gone !! so now we have a good running bike wich starts on the button hot and cold.
So dont believe what you measure and never ever use old coils, i can tell you i wont ever again! this bloody bike stood about 1,5 year because of this.
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On 10/26/2023 at 9:24 AM, davecara said:
You can make almost anything fit with top hat spacers. There can be a LOT of faffing to make them work correctly though. The slabby linkage would have to be swapped out and you would need to spend time working out your rising rates etc.
Look at the build threads on here though, lots have done it. @clivegto has done on his scratcher albeit a 750's, @Leblowskiswapped a different swingarm into a 750, I'm fitting a slingshot arm in my 750 and @GeorgeEI7KOhas a B12 arm in his. So its well do-able
I did not Swap swing arms
I took a slabby swing arm, chopped the part that holds the suspension mount and welded in that part from a slingshot to get rid of the ridicilous non adjustable slabby linksystem.
In that way the swinger looked like a slabby swinger but now ridheight was adjustable.
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So 7 years later i finally bought a rg250we wich is in much better state then the one mentioned in this topic.
Stood for a while but hopefully with some tlc i have a nice little bike.
Bought it without running or riding so fingers crossed lol
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On 2/4/2023 at 7:42 PM, clivegto said:
Yes, seen another site member running 220hp with a F @LeblowskiI think it was.
It was me indeed, must say no problems only thing that happens is wear on the half moons located at the crank. Cause of sideway forces.
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On 1/21/2021 at 1:21 AM, TiZiK said:
Good day gents. As I near the (somewhat) completion, I'm thinking ahead about scavenge pumps if my drain isn't suffice.
I know there's electronic ones but I remember seeing a pic of someone using the stock pump. All I could gather was there was a pipe going through the case and looked to be connected to the OEM pump. See attached pic
Anyone see or know of this and can shed some Insight?
I'd like to explore this option if it's viable.
Turbo is a Holset HY 35. I have a very large drain but think the line angle might give issues. Not fully running yet so don't know. Just thinking\planning ahead
I used a set up like this on my first turbo build. You blok the oilintake with a piece of feathersteel. When the oilpump sucks it wil create a vacuüm above wich will suck the oil from your turbo.
You will need a flapvalve one way to prevent oil from draining back.
The thickness of the Steel is very delicate you need thick enough to create vacuüm and not to thick so your engine doesnt get enough oil.
I used the example from Joe Hailes book.
It worked for me very very good but i wouldnt recomend it cause its a Bitch to get it working properly.
So yes just buy a crankdriven scavengepump i used one on other builds much easier and safe.
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No i havent installed new plugs yet, an easy fix to try i'll order some.
Thanks for thinking along with me !
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Mucho problemo's with my sons Impulse.
This bike stood for about two years and needed some work.
So i did valveclearence, ultrasone the carbs, new needles and seats, new pilotjets. Adjusted floatheight checked compression wich is just above the limit. Inletrubbers checked also they are fine.
I have some problems with it.
Yes it starts direct on the button but only runs perfect idle once it warms up a bit It starts only without the choke if you pull the choke it stalls.
I did a testride and it runs very good once warm. But if you let it stall it does not want to start, only if you start long enough it comes up again with hesitation.
If it's cold it start's much better.
I checked the plugs they where burnt clean not Black so looks very lean.
So i think it runs very rich cold and once warm it runs very lean.
I checked everything on the bike and kind on in the dark here.
What am i missing ??
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Working on the Impulse at the moment, ultrasone cleaning carbs asdjusting valves.
I havent got a manual but i do have a manual for a gsxr 400, i am wondering if tolerances on float height and valves are the same ?
Or is there someone here who has a manual for an Impulse ??
Thanks in advance !
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@rich2302the upper rearmount is indeed bolted through the frame left and right side
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Happy on both sides of the pond !
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Bike has been repaired months a go, it's up for sale.
Check out the up for sale section.
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Haha i am a free man he's not !
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15 till 18 januari @t Almeria again to escape the cold weather in Holland.
Been at the dyno and got af sorted nice lineair curves and 148 BHP at the Wheel very good imho for a 16 year ook enige wich stood for a couple of years.
Installed four other injectors, now fault indications are past time.
Installed heavier front springs and a laptimer and got a bigger rearsprocket wich i will install at Almeria.
So the bike is ready to go !
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2020 wil be done after that every 2 years so i have seen on a Dutch website
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1 hour ago, Delboy said:
Great write up, we were there that weekend, and plan on being these in 2020.
After that the next classic will be 2022!If i stand correct bikerclassics wil be held every 2 years from now on. So probably no bikerclassics 2020
Rg250
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
Did a small ride out, everything works as it should.
Revs and pulls perfect.
The smoke cleared so i am happy no engine rebuild needed.
I am gonna enjoy this cracking bike coming summer!