imago
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Posts posted by imago
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It's all vague memory, but I seem to recall that the Laverda was a one off commission and there were also three Suzuki frames.
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1 hour ago, GeorgeEI7KO said:
I still think it looks like a fat birds arse...
Well you'll just have to avert your gaze.
Getting on with turning up engine mounting spacers, one of those dull but necessary jobs.
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Getting rid of the old graphics and sticking on some test graphics makes things clearer. Change the Dresda lettering to black and I reckon that works.
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The trouble with a build taking a while is you can end up coming back to the beginning with your plan. I'm back at the "that looks pretty good" stage with the RG bodywork.
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2 hours ago, Ragerover said:
Yep it’s good to see a change
Not used them a lot as just in this week but they are solidly built
they. Are a copy of pro bike no doubt
In the garage where the ramps are used daily with heavy kit on
we bought 2 2 year ago year and not a pick of bother
we have 6 US Bendpacks too
( the best you can get )
the Automech are just a copy of those too.
we only bought them as we couldn’t get Bendpack because of Covid
Thanks, useful to know.
Probike are decent lifts, it sounds like the Automech are the same deal but a bit cheaper.
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I'll leave the girlfriend comments to @Blubberas that's more his area of expertise.
As for the bike, it's coming together nicely.
Always a great point when you get the big lumps going together, really lifts the mood and motivation even when you know the next phase is all the time consuming can barely see a change stuff.
On a side note, how do you rate those Automech ramps? I'll need another when I move and the Pro-Bike lift I have is good but a few hundred more.
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5 hours ago, Dezza said:
In my experience suspension compression during cornering can reduce ground clearance by quite a lot. Obviously this depends on multiple factors though.
You're right it can and does, so I've allowed for that in the calculations. Once it's properly complete and mobile I'll be able to strap down the suspension to load it and do a real world check.
There are loads of factors to take into account (tyre width and stiffness, suspension settings, CoG of the bike, corner camber etc) and calcs will only give you a rough guide.
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10 hours ago, Blubber said:
I think we need more gsx1400 builds on here.... can't say that without looking biased
Funny you should say that, I have one coming up very soon after the move is done. It will involve a Katana, a GSX1400 and a Hayabusa.
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51 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Did you see Brian McCalls gs1000 race bike when you visited? It's got no starter clutch just a case to cover the end of the crank which he can touch the deck with on the loop at Donington. I was quite impressed.
Yes, he's got some bloody nice projects and finished bikes in his workshop.
Hopefully once the move is done I'll be able to get everything in one place too.
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3 minutes ago, DAZ said:
Have a mate with a h2sx kwack that has a lean sensor built in to the dash .... Every flippin' time we stop I get a report as he checks his chicken strips ......
ffs
From a company point of view FaceBook is a necessary evil, but it's really frustrating with the amount of utter bollocks people post. Loads seem to reply to something just to reply, some reply with identical answers to ones posted previously, and others jump in with the "What about [insert the blindingly obvious]?"
You, well I do anyway, really have to be in a happy calm place before going on there otherwise you'd end up on a multi-storey car park with a rifle having a cull.
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1 hour ago, DAZ said:
That's about 33 degrees more than I manage thruppenny bitting round corners these days .....but when I was younger I was much faster , obviously...
Just quickly looked up a 2020 yam r1 and it claims 56° so I reckon you'll be able to get your money's worth from every mm of tread width
It's unlikely to get anywhere near that in real life tbh. I was just curious how the geometry was stacking up with my K1 GSXR1000 reference. Part of the idea for the build being to see how close I could get to K1 GSXR specs using 40 year old gear.
Absolutely no idea why, but posting it on FaceBook seems to have stirred up a few loons.
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By calculation and basic measurements until it's properly mobile, but I'm getting 53 degrees for max lean angle on the Dresda with a 180 rear.
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5 hours ago, Dezza said:
What happens when it goes faulty? Will it be like many modern car electrical faults that quickly escalate in cost and frustration trying to rectify? Any info on the reliability of these things?
They're pretty reliable now, which means you can get the odd failure but it's rare. A bit like CDI or ignitors they rarely fail, it's usually something else which goes tits up and remains undetected until if takes them down. Earlier version did have more failures, but that was mostly down to poor installs and/or them being grafted onto a system with other problems.
Electrical work remains on of the most bodged, short cut heavy and poorly diagnosed systems on bikes and cars. It's a very simple system in terms of what it needs to do (move electrons from A to B).
Personally I wouldn't dream of fitting anything like an M-Unit to wiring that was more than 5 years old or had been messed about with. To me that's the same level or storing trouble as fitting new rings without honing the bores, new pads on warped discs, sticky tyres with shagged shocks etc.
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23 minutes ago, clivegto said:
So what's all fuss about these M unit's ?
They're reliable, feature heavy, integrate with stuff off the bike via blue tooth, and massively cut down on the wiring required to make up the loom.
However, if you're not going to use all the bells and whistles features for remote starting, lighting effects (pulsed brakes, hazards, headlamp delay etc etc etc. then they're just an expensive modern alternative to fuses and relays. So for the Dresda with its simple wiring requirements and no need of the features I'm using a FuzeBlock which is better than a standard analogue fuse box, but not as advanced and feature heavy as an M-Unit and a third of the price.
The draw through is getting an M-Unit because it will be having a much more comprehensive wiring system and I want the features it comes with.
Usual story in that it's horses for courses.
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A little calming work in between things. Setting up and setting out for the Dresda electrical system.
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Finished making the lower rear engine mounts. I'll need to sort out some rear sets before I decide on what and where for the kick stand.
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16 hours ago, clivegto said:
Though I best take the swingarm arm out for a look see, hade to make a slide hammer up to get the 2 swinging arm bolts out. A very interesting bearing arrangement in there.
That's a very similar set up to Can Am MX and T'n'T head bearings, a bit over complicated but it seems to outlast taper rollers for wear.
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
in the word's of Bob Ross "we don't make mistakes we have happy accidents"
Bob Ross. Nice bloke, great artist, chats utter bollocks. I've had my share of accidents, and I can say hand on heart none of them were happy.
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18 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Yeap your 1st challenge will be getting the studs out
Yeah, it's not a fun job. Although the last case I stripped a couple of weeks back went not too bad. I heated the whole thing, then put decent penetrating oil around the studs, heated it again, then undid them the next day. It worked OK, I wouldn't say easy, but much better.
I just need to work out what I'm going to do with the kit or engine when it's done. One of those out of the blue "do you want ..." chance things that you can't turn down when they come along.
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3 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
1260 needs cases bored for the thicker liners as will the block
Thanks.
I knew the block would, just wasn't sure about the cases.
Probably worth taking the case along with the barells to be bored/machined at the same time then to save some faff.
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Having never gone that big, what's involved in fitting a Wisco 1260 kit (liners and pistons) to an ET engine? Boring the barrel holes and opening up the cases?
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26 minutes ago, gsx said:
Love too, if I'm not banned after last year
@clivegtosaid some people called round asking for you.
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I'd like to come back and enjoy your hospitality again, but it may not happen this year as August is month six of my 6 months notice on the workshop. So I imagine I'll be up to my ears in it here unfortunately.
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2 hours ago, Swirl said:
As if like buses it's confused brother turns up, boat anchor motor and Comstars have gone and a OSS motor will be getting fitted
What're you thinking for the wheels, front end and arm?
GSx1100 Dresda Solitaire (I may have had a Clivecident).
in Trick Frames
Posted
One of my least favourite things to do on the lathe. Today I'm making the foot long lower rear engine mounting bolt for the Dresda. 17 mm hex bar turned down and threaded to M10.
