Otatts

@XXXSproim afraid I didn’t. I dropped the idea and saved the busa pistons and rods for a turbo build and got Wiseco pistons for this build

@HWBi have a 1200 in an 88 750 and clearance was an issue. We heated to bottom of the tank and gently dented a shallow channel in the bottom of the tank to clear the throttle cables. the Pingel tap didn’t work for me as there was not enough room so I had to make my own using an external Pingel vacuum on/off valve and a quick release fuel line. Flows great, compact and easy to remove the tank now. You can have a look at my build thread (time for a head job) it should be towards the end

Yeah that’s 100% why I’m doing it

@Upshotknotholeyeah it’s where I got mine from along with the carb side covers. Keen to see if it makes any notable difference

Interesting read! I’d always wondered of the cooling tube effectiveness. I’m getting tubes welded through my tank (I’ll be honest…more for looks than anything else) , fed from the windshield vents via some hose ah la yoshimura suzuki America race teams. I had debated whether to have them exit on top of the head for cooling or at the carbs for air feed. from what I could tell it was for carbs. Bit different from race bikes but I guess the theory is the same.

I knew it would be too good the next true Any reason for the RSV rear caliper over the suzuki one? have you got a build thread for you bike? I’d been keen to check it out

This is a great thread. Thanks to everyone. Was looking at OZ forged alloy wheels but holy hell they’re expensive. The 675 wheels look great @snoorder just a question.. will the standard slingy front discs fit on the 675 front wheel? I noticed they’re a 5 bolt pattern like the slingy ones and was hoping just from luck that they would fit

She’s a looker @Wee Man! Very well proportioned and very tidy! Nice work. makes me excited to get onto my turbo project after I’ve finished my current one!

Bit late to the party but I made a spacer sleeve for the rear mount so I didn’t have to drill out the frame.

Here’s a list of all the motors the rocker arms from an ‘88 DOT head will fit http://www.mickhone.com.au/part/suzuki/1284027A01#content I used the ones from my B12 as the Dot ones were shagged

Ok so I finally got to take the bike for a spin. Last time I had the Dynojet 1100 kit in there I had 124 (dynojet) mains and the high flow airbox filter so I set it up the same. being that I made my own air filter restrictor to go in the existing one I thought I’d take them with me and try all three stages as they’re kinda easy to swap on the go so started with no restrictors and it’s bloody well perfect!! No flat spot like last time. Pulls really well all through the rev range! I’m actually surprised how well it does go for a 750 and the amount of bottom end torque it has! anyway.....that’s that I’m not touching the bastard again. Still can’t for the life of me understand why the OEM needles, needle jets and mains wouldn’t work. Time to bolt it all together and got on with the other bike

@icpreyman I’ve chased everything! I’ve swapped CDI, coils, leads etc to prove it wasn’t electrical. I’ve cleaned, rust prepped and sealed the tank, bought a new fuel tap, new fuel lines, put fuel filters in to prove it wasn’t fuel. I even swapped the whole motor as a mechanic once said a valve might be sticking or some shit. I’ve replace everything but the *ucking frame and body work!! anyways. I put the 1100 DJ kit back in those carbs and the flat spot has gone from 4-5k so I’ll put the tank back on and give it a test run later. i did think I may have found the problem as I was putting the super long bandit 12 carb vent tubes on as I think this bike had none when I got it. I saw in the manual that this tubes are normally only about 5cm long and the bandit ones are about 40cm long! I forgot to test the theory before pulling them out last night. I put the 1100 DJ kit in the carbs and ran it withOut them and then put them back on but it didn’t make a difference got me absolutely buggered why the OEM needle/mainjet doesn’t work

I wish I could provide you with some answers @icpreybut I feel like I’m in out of my depth on this one. I borrowed a set of carbs from a friend a while back setup standard spec (112.5 mains) and they didn’t have a flat spot. Now I’ve finally got back to standard spec the flat spot is still there and dies at 1/4 throttle and yet I’ve used these carbs in the 7/12 (changing only the needle, emulsion tubes, mains) and it ran fine so it’s not the slides or the floats. I’m just at a loss

112.5 worse than before. Tried at middle Needle position Then richest still got a massive flat spot at 1/4 turn. Choke helps it get through. Same as always tried turning the pilot screws another 1/2 turn out (To 3 turns out in total) still the same (seeing as the choke helps it) Dies at 1/4 throttle. Same result on 112.5, 117.5, 120, 125, 130. Incidentally 130 was the point where the choke stopped helping im out of patience. This bike has broken me. 1100 DJ kit going in it and that’s it.

Wow that site is a great find @Lachie04 those slide guides are impossible to get so it’s great having that as an option. Both my BST36cv’s are pretty flogged out there but it doesn’t seem to bother the 7/12 as I’ve tried both sets in that motor I’ll keep that site open for sure though!