Nick

On is at 6, reserve is at 9, prime is at 3 - using the clock face, obviously. Like the cap'n says, the manual is wrong on this one...!

Well, in a similar vein to FBOB's thread, I went into Robinson's Foundry today to order the tensioner spring and washer that sits on the end cap. £5.66 + vat for the cap washer is a new record from Suzuki... i'm still walking funny now from the rogering. Will give the Dutch fella a try in future for OE bits... Nick

Yeah, i suppose it doesn't make sense not to... even if 8 quid for a spring does seem like robbery!

Profi fuel max is good at shifting deposits in carbs - just add it to fuel in the specified ratio. However, like oily says, if its been stood that long i would imagine the o rings in your carbs are probablt shot and would strip and clean them at the very least.

Gonna do the shims on both my slingshots (M and N models) and wondered - given that they are now 25 years old - if it would be prudent to have the cam chain tensioners out and replace the spring? I know some drag racers fit manual tensioners, but i only ride on the road, so this is probably overkill. Does anyone have any experience of the standard tensioners packing up? A new spring is 8 quid from suzuki...

Haynes says 130 mains for BST34SS carbs, mate.

I rebuilt my 1100M tap with a Tourmax kit from Eblag which was about 16 quid and had everything in it - even new bolts and a spring for the diaphragm. The seal that the knob cylinder fits into - like a rubberised washer that fits in the main tap body the other side of the diaphragm - is an interference fit and a right twat to get out. I used an engineer's pick, but I have heard of quite a few people cracking the tap housing in the process. A new one from Suzuki is 160 sheets!

Sounds like you need to start a project thread oily! (hint hint!) Thanks capt - when I've done mine, I will chuck a pic up.

Likewise - I have just forked out for a Motobatt AGM battery and don't want to kill it just yet. Does anyone who has done this mod have any pics of how they've done the install, by any chance?

Thanks for the replies, guys - and the welcome. With the engine off, the battery shows 12.75v... Definitely seems like its overcharging then from your readings, Icekat. Looking at the cost of replacement regulator/rectifiers, I'm guessing I'd be better off just getting hold of another alternator? Thanks again

Hi there, I have long suspected that my 1100M has a charging issue. It's fine, as long as you don't ride it with the lights on. If you ride with the lights on for a prolonged period of time, the battery drains when you go to start it again and you have to bump it.... With a multimeter across the terminals, I get 15.5v at 5000rpm with the lights on (bike on the paddock stand in neutral). From this, I take it regulator/rectifier in the alternator is shagged as this seems like its overcharging to me? Does anyone know what the reading should be from a healthy charging system? Haynes book of lies only gives a lower limit... Thanks in advance, Nick