Buzuki

Need to search some old magazines for infos and pics , but if I remember corectly that Suzuki NUDA bike was powered with sqare four-four stroke 16V engine , that engine top end have three cams , two exaust and just one intake , back wheel was powered via hydro-motor not via conventional chaine .

Well , I have repaired several CDI units by now ,mostly from different older GSXR models , and from some older Kawa`s , typical faults was burned output power darlington triger transistors , dry out electrolytic condensers ,and rarely burned resistors and diodes , by this particular CDI unit from my first slabbie 750 project that 6,2V zener diode was coroded and destroyed caused from acid spil from overcharged batery , hopefully this CDI is OK now , btw , I`m proffesional electronist and TV & audio repairman for decades .

Mistery solved ! , unknown diode original mark is 6.2B2 which is 6,2V/0,5W zener diode .

Hi Even if you change old O-rings with new ones use some quality silicone kit inbeetwen intake rubbers and cyl-head , that silicone kit will guaranty perfect sealing .

Question , is the gear box positioned in Neutral position ? btw , if you initialy positioned cams against cranck in the right position there`s no cnance to bend valves , to bend valves significant force is needed . -Regardless of your actual problem,- After cam chain timing job is done Always rotate cranckshaft several turns clockwise to be sure that valves don`t touch piston .

It was my pleasure ! But take care and take your time and don`t hurry up with that very sensitive job , double and triple check everything ,and Allways keep one eye on the original Suzuki service manual , all information is there , dismantling procedure recomendation , asembling procedure recomandation , recomended torque moments ,order of bolts torque , etc,... it will be my pleasure when you anounce here that you have done repairing job succesfully , also it will be your pleasure when next time after around 6000Km you remove valve cover to check valve clearance and see that all cams and rocker arms and other parts are in perfect condition .

Thanks for clarification ! Will try both front ends , slabbie one and J/K one and will compare characteristic on the road .

Stefane Chose and instal only the best rocker arm shafts , one micrometer with 0-25mm range will be very usefull tool for measuremets od external diameter of this shafts , so chose shafts with less as possible wear and thickest ones in diameter for instalation , Don`t mix rocker arms ! , if you use cam and rocker arms from the spare second engine they have to be placed in the same order as they are placed before removing , regadless even if they are in perfect condition or is fresh polished , Nothing is wrong to use some original asembly lube , even quality motor oil can do the same job , worst case scenario is dry parts instalation , personally I always use high quality standard graphite grease for that purpose .

Stefane -Since you allready have to remove and replace exaust cam for Obligatory check rocker arm shaft condition, at least for shaft for that pair of rocker arms where cam lobe was destroyed , I suspect that shaft is out of tolerance so cam lobe was less supplied with oil which caused cam lobe failure , - before you mounting new exaust cam is not bad praxis to polish both cam lobes and cam journals with Extremely Fine polish material on some very fine polishing wheel until cams lobes and cam journals become almost miror shine , that will extend cam life significantly , and that is my regular praxis on my GSXR750J on every 12000Km for decades , - chose to insert only those rockerarms which hard chromed surface is only and only Perfect , with no any sign of wearing lines , piting holes , or any other surface deformation , - finally polish rocker arm hard chromed surface also , - after polishing don`t forget to carefully wash with gasoline both cam and rockearms until they become perfectly clean , - before mounting back those engine parts use high quality thin layer of graphite grease both on cam lobes and cam journals , - finally change the engine oil and oil filter with fresh ones , since is very possible that microscoping metal byproducts from cam lobe failure poluted entire engine oil system , - as I allready say use thicker engine oil for your very hot climate condition . Pozdrav

I do n`t claim that oil cooled engines cams are wood or plastic soft , but they are all over Relatively Very Soft surfaced compared for example with any SRAD cams or similar cams , I have checked long time ago oil cooled engines several cams for surface hardness and definitely they don`t have any very hard layer surface nowhere , only what I have noticed is that when those cams are brand new packed from factory they have some very thin just few micron of black layer coating , I guess that thin black layer is some sort of industrial graphite which helps cams brake in procedure for first around 1000Km and nothing more .

Suzuki cams on oil cooled engines do not have any hardened layer(cementation) , you can check that with simple file test , Suzuki just chose that type of material matching , on one side soft cams lobes surfaces matched on the other side with hard chromed surfaces on the rocker arms , btw,I will also check rockerarm shaft for wear since tolerance between that shaft and rockerarm directly determines amount of oil for cam lobe lubrication .

Hi Stefan Probably reason for asymetric cam lobe wear is , - asymetric valve clearance adjustment ,( Suzuki says that mutual valve clearance per one rocker-arm have to be adjusted in close as possible tolerance ,and also says that valve clearance check&adjustments have to be done every 6000Km not in 12000Km period) , - use thicker engine oil (20W50) , since climate temperature in Montenegro is relative hot , (personally here in Serbia for decades I use ELF 20W50 semisynthetic oil mixed with 10% of STP (bluepack) oil aditive for my 88 Slingshot 750, - any way obligatory you have to insert new exaust camshaft and four new rocker-arms , and very important : also check all four rockerarms shafts for minimum wear . Best Regards

Just measured , 750cc slabbie front fork is about 775mm long ( unloaded ) and 750cc slingshot (J/K) front fork is about 725mm long (unloaded) ,so difference in lenght is about 50mm , question , if slabbie front end goes 50mm down it will that new geometry negative influence overall bike stability ?

Dear friends need to know right value of smal 1W or 2W Zener diode , which via 100R power resistor produce regulated B+ supply line for CPU unit ( IG-201 ) and for some other elements inside of the Ignition Box . there`s two way to find right value , 1- to read the marks on diode body 2- or to measure DC voltage across diode Thanks in advance !