Gixer1460
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Posts posted by Gixer1460
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36 minutes ago, suzook12 said:
If you do move it to the back probably an idea to up the wire sizes to compensate for voltage drop. Be wary of alternator output, I had a drag bike that was charging at 18V owing to the length of wiring before the alternator saw a signal voltage. Fortunately, in this case the alternator could be removed to run total loss, not an option on a street bike.....
Steve
I doubt very much that wiring was the issue - more than likely a fubar'd regulator! Seeing as GSXR alternators are two wire only red - battery perm. live and Orange switched loads, sensing is instantaneous? Electrons don't really care if wire is 1ft long or 6ft in this case. Regardless - off topic!
Most loom wiring will handle a 1m extension providing comparable wire section is used with decent soldered joints - twisted together + a bit of PVC tape ain't gonna cut it!
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Blag number no workie!
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See - I said it would fit.............................ish! I think i'd use the lower back mount, rotate engine backwards and re-drill the back upper plates towards the rear? That'll put the front engine mounts closer to the frame mounts, pull front of head away from frame and maybe improve angle of carb's to top frame rail....................but there again i'm not standing next to it!
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When I first set the motec m8 up on my turbo, the settings and the map were complete guesswork and I experienced a lot of kick backs trying to start - spinning the starter hub nut undone every time! The modified GSXR rotor with only 4 teeth wasn't helping but once the correct numbers relating to tooth / pick-up / TDC / ign timing were corrected the problem went away. I know 4 teeth ain't ideal but it's all I had at the time!
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Per inch of bore so 78mm bore needs 0.006" not 0.012" - so yes they'll be clattery!
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Its not common at all - but MBE systems aren't 'common or garden' either. Most ecu's will take Hall or inductive triggers though with varying tooth patterns.
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Stationary or when moving? If latter could be output shaft bearing?
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Looking longingly at that master cylinder..........its a keeper!
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ie. you have to use 1100L / M / N yokes as well but can be slid through the yokes to get the geometry back.
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Every GSXR i've built has used them - its not an issue!
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Nothing to stop you using engine coolant water through an intercooler! At a constant 70-80 deg C its certainly cooler than high boost air temps. Standalone liquid intercooler fluid might work for a 7 second blat on a 1/4 mile but it'll soon well exceed the air temp its trying to cool so needs cooling itself!
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I think you'll struggle! Only one I know of was MC Xpress in Sweden.......loadsa money!
Most peeps are switching to water cooled intercoolers - not much use on bikes without water in them!
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Best reason to strip out all those stupid devices out of a loom, you want power from point A via switch to point B not via X, y and Z when the sun is in the east and there's rain in the air!
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Not knocking the ingenuity for slowing the pumps but doesn't it over complicate mapping the injectors with large jumps between low and high speed? Plus isn't it something else to go wrong un-necessarily? But do agree with finding the lowest amp pump possible - gone are the days of simply slapping a 044 on and knowing it'll work.......................for a while at least with 11A draw!
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If you want to spend that sort of money i'd suggest looking at a https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3-pro-standalone-ecu-only/ A very well featured unit and proven waterproof so good on a bike whereas a lot of the others are only 'shower resistant' Not as cheap as they used to be but compared to others its almost comparable to a MoTec if not surpassing it in some areas!
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S'wot he said! You've just lost the carb pre turbo and stuck some injectors in the plenum / inlet.
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16 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:
Not so keen to try stripping a largely non rebuildable turbo just to try and make it look a bit cleaner. Rather just leave it in one piece and fully functional
Eh? Most turbo's just rely on 3 or 4 screws and a couple of plates or large circlips to hold turbine housing to the core so hardly rocket science to disassemble.
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Move the oil cooler! Works for me under the seat.
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You could always ceramic coat the turbine housing - never rusts, withstands 1200 deg's and keeps the heat in for better spool .......... marginal possibility!
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Great if you're swopping or constantly off'ing and on'ing but how many times do you need to remove a wastegate quickly?
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Connected and shared is the best way
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On 2/20/2017 at 6:57 PM, Tombola said:
Interesting!
doesn't make sense I thought these referenced inlet pressure, so I expected to see no pressure at standing then I had to adjust the pressure for couple psi and it would rise with boost!
They do but you have to set a baseline static pressure first then they add boost pressure on to it. If you had no pressure static you wouldn't get any fuel!
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Build a recirculating system if your concerned so it breathes filtered air. No one seems to worry about it after blasting down runways at 200 mph and slamming the throttles shut!
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BOV's are supposed to open under high vacuum ie. at idle so the fluttering is normal.
New bandit???????
in Trick Frames
Posted
Its a Harris - its not supposed to be easy ! Everyone know you have to remove the engine to change the oil and check the tappets ! Its an 'enthusiasts bike' after all ! LOL