markfoggy

The solution is probably using as RCS 19 , but £300 is a very expensive guess and I'm not sure who would buy one later, if it didn't work. RCS16 seems to work with most bikes and there is a 17, which I guess might help in some applications. Bandit forums to the answer phone please. :lol:

There is something going on with the cylinder sizes of these that is a little strange. Even Bimota sleeved down the slave cylinder to get it to work with a Brembo. I can only guess that the lever point on the original is set for really long travel. Modern Radial master cylinders just don't seem to move enough fluid. @370 Steve has fixed his with a different Slave and Master combo, but not proven yet. I'm keen to find an answer to this.... Help.

Ok, that sounds a little soft. Needs to be about 5-10 with just the bikes weight. What we haven't talked about is where you have the preload collars set on that spring. At this point I would back the collars off as much as possible and then move them to tension the spring about 10-12 mm of travel on the threaded part of the shock or if it works by a step change...similar. Then try again with the the static sag, which is as you described; wheel off the ground and then weight of the bike after a couple of bounces...look for that 5/10 mm again. If you can't get there...too soft. Looking at the last photo, seems that you have the collars all the way at the top, try adding some preload and see if you can get it going where you want. I'm thinking that maybe someone before you has wound all the preload out of it in an attempt to be able to take it apart. Maybe then they have realised that it will still need a spring compressor and given up.

To be honest, 14mm of sag when you are on it is not far off ideal. Static sag with just the weight of the bike in the 5-10mm area could be pointing at a good start point for spring rate.

Yes and I'd be thinking it's quite soft...Maybe/probably is a progressive spring and the rate you are seeing is initial. I could be wrong. What are you trying to do?

WP/N seems to have a stem length similar to just about any Modern ish Suzuki, but if you look at the frame design, it's fairly easy to spot that Anything from SRAD on will probably be a bit short in the fork. I ended up going Trumpet, cause they have and up and over frame design and the 595 955i dropped straight in. Many things were stolen from the Hamamatsu UJB design school, I think. If you want something more USD, ZX10's have a long fork and people have made a mix and match easily enough using Suzuki yokes, i think it's just a matter of knowing the fork stanchion diameters and then messing a little with spacers for wheels and brakes. Haven't actually tried myself, but I have a mate that knows if you want a little more info.

Dropping a spindle size is really useful, but only comes into play if you want to make the wheel spacers captive. All of a sudden though, you are into finding an engineering shop and making lots of bits. The spacers could happily have a sleeve section 28 o/d and 25 I/d, that press into the wheel bearings. Also you could get a pair of accurate stainless tubes that press through Hayabusa Adjusters, but are a press fit. If these were longer by the depth of the slot in the arm, Job Jobbed. Smart money then is to have the brake side one also locate the rear caliper hanger to stop it dropping on the floor when you change the wheel.

pm for more details, i will try to remember.

Oh and swing arm pivot size is an issue. WP had a 25mm spindle and an adjuster on the left and later bikes have a 30 and adjuster from the right. causes all sorts of potential fuck ups. (don't quote me on this, I need to check again). I've got a frame that some fuckwit tried to hack out larger, which is useful for other things, but is only a jig nowadays.

I think the trick is to get something quite narrow at the swing arm mount. Dims on the W series are very similar to pre Boiler so most known things will work. But, I'd steer clear of 6" rim solutions on very modern tackle unless you fancy milling the swing arm pivot width down to size. All doable but would take a big machine to do it. I think whole Priller is probably a good choice and you should get it from a breaker all in one piece to make life relatively easy. I, of course, just wanted to make my life difficult so opted for a combination of Benelli and Triumph wheels, but that is very much about trying to make my wheels QD.

Yes, but you should be careful with your spooling and try searching by describing the model type correctly.

Just remember that the most important bit is the crush tube inside the wheel hub. This is what makes those bearings run true.it needs to be an exact length to support the inner part of the race.

https://www.discovolantemoto.co.uk/Replica-Yamaha-260mm Drops straight in.....ish Stop fucking about. They do a rear as well.

I'm guessing that they centre the crush tube that supports the dimension between the inner bearing race. If they take up the slack inside the wheel hub, the spindle will slide through without you having to wriggle the spindle about to centralise the tube.

FYI, the later frames had all that internal casting plated over, 45 degree box web reinforcement of the top rear cross member. Solid, not bolt in tank bracket, plus additional bracing at the headstock. Plus the very last of them had cast plates from the upper rail that picked up on the engine to make it more of a stressed member and to increase lateral stiffness and longitudinal stability. The later style symmetrical over braced arm was derived from the kit bikes, evidence of them being employed on your frame year is the SERT bikes.