wombat258

Seal is behind the o-ring and washer. If the engine is full of oil and the bike is on the side stand the oil level is above this seal. The bearing is a caged needle roller, so it does have a little play.

If the oil seal does not leak at the shifter shaft it should be OK. Check for up/down/forward/back play to see if the bearing is damaged. The in/out play can be corrected by removing the washer behind the circlip. They dish when hit but can be flattened and reinstalled. Don't worry about the head mount - the earlier heads an frames did not have that feature, and it was only added to stiffen the frame a bit.

My 1100W was like that when I first got it. Traced to worn needles and needle jets in the carburetors.

Actually it can with a small bit of engineering. I managed to get a constant vacuum source to a Scottoiler on my turbo engine with a small check valve and a small electric solenoid

No. If the floats were doing their job you could have a 3" diameter pipe feeding it without it flooding, with the fuel pump turned off. One advantage of the vacuum operated tap is that it shuts off fuel flow to the floats while the engine is not running.

Or, a float could have collapsed/cracked and contains fuel.

Check carb float needles and the seat o-rings for leakage. With pump off they should not leak with normal head of fuel.

You can use the rotors out of a Gurls blouse CT90 oil pump and make your own housing.

It has been done.

Hayabusa rods are longer than 1100W rods. Same bearing bores. Earlier oil cooled rods are same dimensions as 1100W.

Oil temperature? Oil viscosity? Not unusual to have high oil pressure with thick cold oil. Hopefully you did not put the crankshaft main bearings in the wrong position, or the conrod bearings will be toast.

I have an 1100W Hahn turbo kit sump (unused) that does exactly that. I am not a fan of introducing any air into the oil pump as it can result in plain bearing failures. Would probably work with early roller bearing crank engines.

79.5mm bores already have problems with blowing head gaskets. No gain in going bigger unless the bores are offset, and this requires a custom block and pistons (ie. SBM). With offset bores over 83mm is possible.

Before you blank off the oil cooler ports on the 1100W sump you will see a restrictor inside one port. Remove the restrictor with an allen key. Now blank off the ports, and it will work like a 750W sump.

Do you plan to delete the 1100 oil cooler?