Jump to content

badger

Members
  • Posts

    440
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by badger

  1. I did look at clocking the turbo but there's no room at the up pipe fitting so a no go. I've bought a stock filter and im going to try and twat in a better way so it clears it better without putting a hole in it. I bought an fzs one too. I'm gonna try and get the stub bit out of another engine and try and get one made to fit. Fingers crossed this'll be enough and not cause any further dramas!!!! Just wanna ride it!

    • Like 1
  2. 2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    Using eyeball measuring the 'el gringo' adapter and short filter don't appear any shorter than a std HiFlo HF138 filter @ 64mm ! ! ! 

    This would seem to be a reasonably priced remote filter kit ..... https://www.Eblag.co.uk/i/112553893410?chn=ps

    I think he meant I could replace the threaded part in the engine for a different thread output bit from 1 to 1.5 and using the fazer oil filter. Probably my cheapest solution. Nervous of doing any damage taking it though! 

    I was just looking at the same remote kit, with hoses and fittings its about £60 I'd need to measure if by the time I get fittings in it I'd still get enough clearance. Thanks dude!

  3. 12 hours ago, El Gringo said:

    I'm pretty sure from my research that there isn't a shorter filter with an M20x1.0 thread.

    I ended up using a sandwich plate as a take off (for an oil cooler) and modifying the adapter stub female end to fit the M20x1.0 bit sticking out of the engine whilst being M20 x 1.5 on the male end which allowed me to fit a 600 Fazer filter which is a fair bit shorter

    You could probably get a new engine stub made with an M20x1.5 thread and just use the fazer filter

    There's some info in my thread here -> 

    *** Main info is on page 1

    Will have a read now, sounds perfect! Thank you dude! 

    • Like 1
  4. Ahoy!
    Im after a smaller profile oil filter for my 1100. With the turbo set up we had to modify (twat with a hammer) the oil filter to fit in the waste gate actuator arm (no idea if that's what its actually called but it'll do). It lasted about 15 secs on the road before a hole appeared in it Has anyone used or knows of an filter that just has less depth? I've not got anywhere near by I can go and do a comparison of different ones. 
    Cheers guys :D

  5. On 6/8/2018 at 9:26 PM, nokturnal said:

    oil-cooled porn shot if i ever saw one... 

    I had a look for extra wide coolers and I could only find ones for 200 quid! 

    Will avoid crashing if I can help it but could solve the problems I guess :Di could try mounting the bracket a bit different but might look a bit "special"

    Thanks guys

  6. I don't mean in a seductive way. I've always had a bottom mounted one but with the turbo fitted I don't have room anymore and it got flipped over. Issue being that the fittings now touch the yokes. How have people got around this? Am I being a proper tard or do I need to change stuff? 

    Cheers guys

    20180422_171002.jpg

  7. On 21/04/2018 at 9:17 PM, MeanBean49 said:

    Dont bother with dyna rubbish save money and buy an ignitech. Lots cheaper Fully programable, do loadd more than a dyna does. Plug and play on standard coils and pickup too. Pm me if you want I get a discount on em

    Discount ye say? 

  8. You can make a cooler kit for about £50-70
    Cut up a stock "Y" piece for the fittings and fit rubber hose to effectively shorten it. buy a fitting to mount to engine at the crank case, buy a tap and male-male can't remember which to a jic-6 fitted and tap out the bottom of the "Y" piece. Connector braided lines to a cooler of your liking and is if by magic bob's your sister wife and you have a head cooler kit. Not the sexiest thing but £700 cheaper 
     

  9. Most of the time mine wouldn't start it was plugs. If you have a heat gun, warm them up a bit and stick them back in. Worked well each time it wasn't doing anything. Like meanbean said, it'll look fine but it's doing shit under pressure if they're vaguely wet

    • Like 1
  10. 7 hours ago, suzook12 said:

    As ypu have an overlength arm, work out the legth as a percentage then increase the spring rate by the same percentage.......

     

    Removing springs from an ohlins is a doddle, just keep unscewing the collar, you can remove the pre-load totally.... You will run out of spring before you run out of shock....

    If i'd used my brain I'd done that. I think im gonna shorten the wheel base a bit. Enough to keep the bike nicer in corners really but not to wheelie crazy. 
    Do you have a remote preload adjuster? I can't find anything about how to rotate it. There's a pin to stop it moving. I dunno if I wind it to max, crack the thread on the 2nd collar and twist the whole thing? 

×
×
  • Create New...