badger
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Posts posted by badger
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Ahoy!
Would 34mm teapot carbs work on 36mm rubbers? I.E are they the same?
The ones I have on my bike are a bit of a loose/ easy to take in and out. It back fires like fuck when cold on the most part and improves when warm. afr shows lean spikes while backfiring -
On 4/24/2020 at 1:46 PM, davecara said:
A walbro 255 pump fits into a L0/L1 750 pump housing and has the same mounting bolt pattern as a K4 1000.
Less plumbing = less pipe work full of fuel exposed to the heat of an oil boiler, its neater and takes up less room.
What I did on mine too. Mostly for the lack of room i have. External fuel reg still
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This is some from a 88 gsx600f on Eblag. Same single fuel inlet
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These are the carbs. Only difference we can see so far is the fuel inlet/s stripping them down now.
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I'll get a pic up tomorrow. Felt like I was going mad having the side by side as they'd been on a gsx600f but weren't sure if they were the right ones for it
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Inside and out they look identical. Tin tops, 34mm. Just one is duel inlet.
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After a lot of head scratching and some dumb luck with carbs I think I dont have 1100 ones. I thought they were different sizes but I'm not sure. I have two sets in front of me. One set has 2 fuel inlets, the other 1. The carb rebuild kit i bought had parts that weren't the same. Assumed they fucked up.
If anyone could shed some light on it that would be handy! Thanks guys
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14 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
It can't work any better than a 13 row cooler - it's the same physical 'real estate' so can't cool any better than that. In fact it'll probably hold more heat in its envelope and so cool slightly worse than a normal 13! And personally IMO a 13 has no place cooling a turbot in any situation - a 260 x 19 used to get hot enough for me! For the same face area and increased cooling either double core it for a 75% boost in cooling or add water !
The core dimensions are actually a fair bit bigger than a regular 19 row being 260x150. The dual one is 352x140. I think with the idea of it snaking though is it spends more time in the cooler making it kewl
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It used to be upside down but doesn't fit with the turbo anymore, fittings touch the manifold. Width is the issue as my yolks hitting the 180 degree top fittings with little effort. Either need a wider cooler which means new brackets etc too and i think are fuck ugly or something I can side fit. I can't see why it would be an issue as regardless of what the cooler is doing (within reason) the hose is controlling the flow rate.
I used to run a head cooler too but next to fuck all space now to fit that either.
This explains it...... I tried and I didn't get my explaination
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/single-pass-double-pass-triple-pass-radiators-what-s-the-difference/28862 -
so.............
I have steering issues using a stock oil cooler with top fed thingies. Im looking at side fed dual pass cooler which would solve a load issues and are hella cheap from that there china (free light beer face aids too). Its a bigger core to boot while should keep the turbo motor happier. 352x140mm
Do any of you clever bollocks's know why I would run into any issues using one over a regular/ single one? I've read they can slow down oil flow a little but apparently helps a fair bit for stationary/ slow speed temps.
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I'm pretty sure mikuni have all the base set ups on their website. Have a google, should find a manual for them
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Zx6 ones are super close but just off. Quite by accident I picked out the wrong one working on my ninja!
I'll probably go for k1 ones. If they're much different I'll probably get the frame mounts rewelded. Its off to the fab dude soon for some yokes!
Thanks guys!
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Yes I did a search.....
Does anyone know of other bikes you can pillage with the same spacing for the hangers? Probably gonna get some Chinesey ones but that'll fit
I know 02 zx6 is close but puts your pegs down a bit
Worst case I'll get a new mount welded on the frame to suit and pick what ever but if I could save some drama that would be handy
Cheers guys!
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I'm on carbs but fitted an internal pump for space when I had an alu tank made. Gsxr 1000 pump housing and a Warlbro 220lph pump. Gss342. A little jiggery pokery but fitted all good. Used and external regulator though
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That does look awesome!!
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Newer busa wheels are curved 3 spokes...... I think they're forged/ lighter but not 100%
Just get food poisoning before doing a race
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Is it engaged with the starter clutch properly? Or starter clutch fucked?
Earth strap to the engine solid ?
Multimeter saying 12v at the starter when you hit the the button?
What duckndive said
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Should be able to get one cheaper than that 2nd hand. Probably cheaper to get it repaired!
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There should be some relays in there?
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How do you keep finding these bargains!?! Buy it you fool
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I have a dyna2000 that has been through 2 electrical melt downs. And alternator failure and many cornish winters which is still going! BUT I've heard of so many lately that have lasted no time at all from new. A few even dead out the box!
Like you said, technology moves on but the dyna stuff hasn't changed in 20 years!
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It's about a 3rd of the price, much better for plug and play, plug in quick shifter, 2 step built in, boost related advance if you wish. It does loads! Also dyna quality is a bit shit from what I've seen in the past few years
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I've been having a read on the innovate site and there's a fair bit of info on there about this. Apparently the back pressure causes fucked readings as well as the o2 sensor is only good for 750°c. You could in theory use a spacer as this would bring the temp right down but probably reduce accuracy further.
new to me GSXR
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Nice!
Head stock bearings, wheel bearings, yokes not tight/bent. All worth a check