badger
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Posts posted by badger
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The pins have a habit of sticking like glue. They will come out BUT be super fucking careful because those alu mounts are weak as fuck
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Also if they weren't genuine orings in there they never last, been there and done it. Worth going genuine for those everytime
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4 hours ago, justin said:
Small world
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34 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Slightly exaggerated but the bit I have marked in silver can be removed. Not a good idea to remove to much material at the hinge side as it can jam the door when closing.
Awesome!
Much appreciated, thanks Clive!
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8 hours ago, Arttu said:
What? You don't need to take apart the wheels from the shaft to port the wastegate hole. So no need for balancing.
Just unbolt the turbine housing and knock it off from the ceneter assembly. In real life it might be a bit more difficult since these are often pretty rusty and seized together.
Never taken a turbo apart what so ever so wanted to ask some grown ups 1st! Cool cool, that sounds pretty straight forward!
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Digging this back up again, waste gate actuator was replaced for a kingawa one. Massive improvement on how boost comes on and creep BUT problem is still there. Is boring out the waste gate as straight forward a job as YouTube would have me believe? Anything complicated in pulling the turbo apart?
Thanks guys
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A brace from carb rubbers to the plenum. Stops the plenum from moving back and popping off
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10 hours ago, Neveragain55 said:
From what I know about Pirelli tires they have very aggressive lean angles & edges for aggressive cornering.
I'll check out the Continentals, thanks...
The pirelli was a much wider tyre
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A pirelli diablo supercorsa 180/60 scrubs hard on my chain, a continental race attack has about 10mm clearance.
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Old pic
Fbm kit
1216 Busa pistons, carillo rods, ihi bb turbo
Not being dynod. Hoping around 250 when set up
Hoping to have it on the road again ASAP
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If you don't want to leave tape on, buy a cheapo hose coupling things (so you can clamp two hoses together) do that up most the way, slide it up so the cut end bit of hose is in it and then put the end fitting on. By miles the easiest way I've done it
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A mate has offered to make me a stainless one. He's very handy on a lathe. I will take him up on it but it'll be ages until it happens.
That dust seal would be handy!
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12 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
This is why i change to cable clutch on oil cooled engines, not only better feel from a cable, but much cheaper and simpler to fix, and less likely to go worng.
I've thought about it in the past but I like the hydraulic clutch.
2 hours ago, clivegto said:Last one I did I just got a new seal, put the piston on the spinny wire wheel then slightly honed the slave bore. Works like new now.
Thats what happened to the last one but there was pitting on the piston under the seal. Lasted a few months but leaked again while stood up over winter.
Found a nearly new one on Eblag from Lithuania. Will turn up one day. I've had another one powder coated so will Rob the piston out of the new one.
Hoping that sorts it!
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Cheers dude!
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Ahoy!
So.....
I have an extensive collection of slave cylinders. They all fucking leak, changed seals etc. The pistons are in a pretty crappy state. Is there any other bikes you can steal them off?
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Tim Blakemore is in Bristol for dyno. Who I intend to see with mine at some point
4 hours ago, Jdeac said:Any recommendations in somerset then.
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Different plugs and higher rpm limit I think
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I've got a gsxr 1100 wheel, k8 disc, caliper and hanger. Not 100% but I think the spacing caliper to disc is the same pretty much across the board
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On 11/24/2020 at 9:03 AM, Reinhoud said:
I'm more curious, where can you go flat out for that long?
Deffo not the a30 and there aren't any roads towards the lizard or st.Austell with massive straights and no turn offs
Impressive that 3rd gear roll ons never see above 70mph-
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1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:
Yeah kingawa actuators are really good, and are rebuildable, just got a new diaphragm for mine as it split after 4 years.
VF23 is what was on mine, great turbo. Cant really hybrid them in a way that will make them any better, just worse
OK. Again going off what dave recommended and put together.
I'll have a see if there's any identification on it.
I'll probably pick up at some point then. Sounds like a good solution and a lot cheaper and easier than an external set up!
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On 11/18/2020 at 6:14 PM, MeanBean49 said:
What sort of hybrid is it?
I ditched my standard actuator and replaced with a kingawa one, never had any problems at all with boost creep.
You Could have a pin hole on the actuator diaphragm.
Also swapping to aftermarket one allowed me to move it round so didnt foul on anything
I've had a total mental block on what models they were!
I ask dave if he remembers and he said
Either a 23 “ 28 or 29. I thought it was a 34 and something. It is on a stock actuator. I havent checked the diaphragm in it for holes bit I will.The arm coming out the turbo connecting to the valve is whats in the way but I've seen people machining this down rewelding.
Are the kingawa actuators OK then? If I can so the above you you've not had issues would resolve a bunch of problems!
Thanks!
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Sooooooooooo,
My internal waste gate is set too 16psi but it doesn't stay there long! It will just keep going up and up. I have an IHI vf hybrid and i've read this is a common-ish problem. Anyone else had an issue and what was a resolve? Im assuming an external waste gate will be best? I do have a bit of a fitment issue as the WG actuator arm sits pretty much in my oil filter and has twice stabbed a hole in it in 1500 miles! -
Dave said for me to stick with the f lump on mine. IHI bb turbo, 16psi and fingers crossed about 260bhp. Be it it's only done 1500 miles the oil in it looks new and no glittery business. Also have had some boost creep issues and seen 22psi a few times. Very much still in one piece
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Carburateur repair kit gsx1100f
in Oil Cooled
Posted
They say 38mm but the kit looks like all the right bits. Could message them to confirm. Worst case its not the same and you send it back