Nik
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Posts posted by Nik
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11 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
I think personally a forged rod will be better than a cast stock rod from whoever it is sourced from - a stock cast rod has shown it is capable of living at upto 250hp level in a 'gassed up' NA engine and just shy of around 280+hp with a turbo. Most builds rarely go over these levels so i'd suggest a Maxspeeding rod would be comfortable even at a 50% increase.
Rods VERY RARELY fail structurally on their own! Major cause is oil flow / bearings and then Rod Bolt failure. So, make sure about these and anything should live a long life IMHO!
Did Suzuki ever use cast rods on any engine with a substantial displacement? I have never seen a stock GSX-R/F rod that wasn't forged.
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On 12/20/2023 at 5:06 PM, wraith said:
Careful now, saying that sort of thing (15/45 and 80mph at 5k) will get the I know better lot giving you grief, like I got on another post
but your not wrong but we all know that changing your gearing won't change the revs or speed of the bike, as i was told on here 
but what do they know ps I'm running 16/48 and like it but looking at 15/48 for summer.
I don't write this to be mean, but there seem to be a major misunderstanding on your side concerning gearing. Normally I couldn't care less, but in this thread, too, you make comments like you know what you're talking about when others don't.
In the other thread you refer to, Dot head Swap On The G Bike, you state that you cruise at 80 mph at 4,000 rpm with 16/48 gears, and others claimed it couldn't be correct. It doesn't really matter, but then you imply that your engine is tuned, and therefore your gearing is different. You ridicule comments by @Gixer1460, @coombehouseand @Dezzawhen they correctly point out that your reasoning is wrong.
If your engine makes 40 hp or 240 hp, the revs at 80 mph (or any speed) are the same (everything else the same). The power doesn't change the revs at a set speed, only how fast you get there!
Please, stop ridiculing people who actually know better, calling them/us "The I know better lot", when you are the one who has misunderstood power vs gearing.
It can happen to all of us, but sometimes you have to wake up and learn.
Merry Christmas
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2 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:
Suzuki has decided to discontinue a lot of them. If you find one that works, doesn't hurt to buy a spare or two if they're available.
I need several of them, and couldn't imagine they'd be impossible to find anywhere.
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Bumping this thread. I have searched everyhere, but I can't find a drive chain slider/guide for a 750 slabby. Item no. 61273-27A00. Any suggestions on where I may find it?
What do you guys use when the original guide is worn down?
Any help would be appreciated.
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11 minutes ago, XXXSpro said:
I’ll have to find the numbers, but read it has a different exhaust cam, would that affect more upper Hp?
If you're referring to various sites' microfishes etc, where the G cams might have the same item no.s as F cams, it says nothing about the original specs/item no.s. Most are superseeded and streamlined and refers to only one spare part no. Since the G sold little, it most likely refers to the F cams for spares, which could fool people into thinking they were the same originally.
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I seriously doubt that the G has the same cams as the F.
The G has the same 1127 cc, same C/R, same valves, 36 mm carbs but only 100 hp. The F had 34 mm carbs and made 130-ish hp, all else the same.
I'd go for F or R cams.
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8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Hasn't been around for well over a year so you may never get a response! Reading through the whole thread I would have said piston slap - I had a 1186 kit that slapped more than I liked after just 6000 miles so its not an impossible diagnosis!
That was my guess too, and I was curious how it unfolded.
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@kiwisuzuki1100nz; how did the trouble-shooting go? Did you find what was wrong with your engine?
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47 minutes ago, GeorgeEI7KO said:
Anything will fit if you've a big enuff 'ammer Dave. B12 into slabby.... A piece of piss. My 16 year old lad would manage it. They key to the slabby is to retain the standard lever and shock length. I've a shock outta an aRse6 from a yammahoohaa in there. Works reet. And bin the off centre spacer for the big bearing on the lever and get one made with the hole centered.
I am fitting an R6 swingarm to a 750 slabby just now. Do you mind sharing some more info/photos?
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5 hours ago, vern said:
It is really faded, I can see 410 but not sure what else is there.
There you go! Clear, isn't it!?
That was an unusually faded part no.
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Show us a photo of the left-hand side. There should be a part no.
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OP; I ran a 750 CDI on an 1127 for many years. It works very well, but as@Dezzawrote, the rev limiter is higher (13,000+ IIRC). When I raced a friend, I found a neutral between 3rd and 4th gear and at full throttle the engine quickly revved all the way to the limit and the crank split in two. Expensive! Since then, I always use the correct CDI.
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On 8/24/2023 at 10:14 PM, Martin71RS said:
Does anyone know if 1985 through 1987 GSXR750 frames are exactly the same ar are there differences? (If so,what are they?)
Thanks
Martin
Some time during 1986, the factory added a welded triangular reinforcement to the lower side of the rear frame. I have 1986 frames with and without the reinforcements.
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Sorry to say, but you cannot replace only one of the cases. The upper and lower cases are machined together, with specific tolerances per crank bearing etc. You'll have to replace the cases together, or repair the engine mount on your current case.
Concerning the gearbox, I'd guess that the dogs on your 2nd/5th gears are rounded off so badly that 2nd gear is slipping out of position when you increase load. What likely happened too is that you tried to keep it in place and your gear shift forks were therefore bent too. Hence the in-and-out-of-drive action.
I'd guess you need to replace 2nd and 5th gears (they are locking into eachother) and check up on your gear shift forks (and possibly the gear drum).
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1 hour ago, MikeyVeitch said:
In terms as to how I read the plugs, if I go up to a 145 the plugs go sooty and black where as with the 130, they stay clean
To read the plugs, you have to go full blast (fully open throttles under load for at least a couple of seconds), turn off the engine with the kill switch, pull the clutch at the same time, and roll to a stop. Then, if you know how to read the plugs, you can evaluate how rich/lean the engine runs at full blast, i.e. if the main jets are alright.
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How do you read the plugs? On open throttle, the needle position has no/little impact.
130 mains are way too small. No wonder it gives up at 6K.
I have BST36s on an 1127, with dual pod K&N filters and open exhaust. I run 150 mains, and it runs as good as one can expect from CVs with pod filters.
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GU74A or GU74B. The black edition had the same frame prefiix.
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Phil, the surgeing could be caused by leaking carb boots. Run the engine and spray some motor starter on the boots, to see of the revs change. If not, your boots are fine, and you can continue investigating your carbs.
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I have bought gasket kits from Brian McCall. Loads of gasket kits etc for carbs. He is on Eblag, named bbrbri. Or contact him on https://www.facebook.com/centurionmotorcycleprojects/
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To OP; IIRC, the 1100F doesn't use conventional dogbones, but a bit more complex assembly of dogbones and spacers etc. Check up on it so you don't buy the same kind of simple dogbones used on slingshots by mistake.
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The older 1052 cc engines are marked U7xx-.
The 1100F engines have helix gears on the crank/clutch basket, which creates some axial loads you can do without on a highly tuned engine.
As said above, the double bearing on the output shaft is preferrable on a high performance engine, and the Bandits had slightly thicker liners (+0.5 mm IIRC).
The 91-92 shim heads are said to be more prone to failures of the rocker arms/shims, but I have no experience of that myself.
The clutches with ordinary springs are easier to beef up if needed, compared to the later ones using a disc spring.
Otherwise, I don't know of any significant differences.
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The calipers on slabby 750 and 1100 are the same casting, but the threaded holes are placed differently (because of disc size difference).
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4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Don't see how - taking heat from one side and transferring it to opposite side equally hot valves ! ! ! And steel is a crap heat transfer material when compared to aluminium.
It's there to dissipate heat to the oil, not to the other valve areas.
Zero Cam Chain Slack
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Most people fit DOT heads to Bandit 1157s (with their different cam chain setup, with hyvo chain and no idler). It may be that the DOT head's got a slightly different geometry, and maybe the Bandits are more forgiving and the difference doesn't get noticed when fitting them to Bandits. Just a guess.