Nik
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Posts posted by Nik
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1 hour ago, Dezza said:
I have never understood why for 'endurance syle' bodywork clearly designed for twin lights is converted to take only a single light, and this is interpreted as an improvement. When it's dark in an endurance race, I would have thought it an advantage to have the increased visibility from two lights or am I missing something here?
One of the lights was often removed, to fit an extra oil cooler.
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Raggy; So? As long as it's otherwise ok, is it a problem?
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26 minutes ago, kiwisuzuki1100nz said:
ok thats not so bad and thanks!
I assume sump pan swap means fit the 1052 sump pan on the 1127?
Are the exhaust port centres the same? i.e. my current 87 headers should just bolt in
Can you elaborate on the single ignition pickup? Is that the signal generator under the right side engine cover?
Yes! Use the oil pickup that comes with the sump.
Yes!
Yes!
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6 hours ago, jonny1bump said:
My crank snapped at 11K
Mine too! Ted: if you miss a gear, the engine easily over revs if you have an ECU with a too high limit. On my first 7/11, I used an ECU from an 88 750, missed a gear and split my crank. Use an ECU with a suitable rev limit. In your case, I'd go with any 1127/1157 ECU.
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Tight is good!
A DOT head from an 88/89 GSX-R 750 or early GSX-F has a raised inlet (appr. 15 mm at the carb rubbers). Either head, it will fit your frame, but the filters may be slightly deformed. Foam filters on trumpets will work fine.
It's been a long time since I fitted an 1127 into an 88 750 frame but I remember that I had to replace the petrol tap. I bolted a block to the tank with the original two bolts, and fitted a 90 degree elbow and a 1/4" ball valve (teflon ball) to the block. Some people raise the rear end of the tank slightly to solve the clearance issue.
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The castings are different and the DOT head will not fit the 750 M engine. The DOT heads came on 750 short stroke engines, 748 cc, but will also fit the 1052/1127/1156 cc engines. 1985-87 and 90-91 750s were all long stroke engines, 749 cc, and the heads have a different shape.
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If your jets read 122.5, they're Mikunis. Dynojet don't make .5 jets.
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Original MJs are 97.5 (in Sweden at least). IIRC I used 117.5 with Yoshi and K&Ns, so your 122.5 sounds reasonable. I've never had any problems getting VM29s to run properly with Mikuni jet and needles. IMO, Dynojet is a waste of money (and confusing since they use their own sizes, and the needles and needle jets wear down a lot quicker than Mikuni's).
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16 hours ago, Blue said:
I dunno you tell me
Well, you learn something new every day. :-)
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20 hours ago, Blue said:
Can anyone tell me what these are off & which ones go where
13110 41CO
13120 41CO
13130 41CO
13140 41CO
I guess you got the numbers wrong. Shouldn't they be 13101-41C00 etc? They're inlet rubbers for a 91/92 GSX-R 1100 engine.
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Stainless bolts and screws into an aluminium head is a recipe for disaster. Big risk of severe galvanic corrosion, and it's the head that would suffer. Stay away from it. Just my two cents ...
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You can put lots of torque on the 19 mm timing Wheel hex, but if anything is seized, there is no reason to push it. Remove the head and take it step by step. It may be that only something minor is seized/rusty, and you may do more damage to other parts if you force the crank to turn.
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I hate to rain on your parade, but I'd stay away from spending time and money on tuning the 750. Sure, big bore kit, porting, cams, carbs, exhaust would make it more powerful, but at very high cost, and relatively low performance improvement. An 1100 is the sensible option. Just my two cents ...
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That's a 5.5 gallon tank. It was introduced on both 750 and 1100 in 1986, on some markets, e.g. UK, and in 1987 on other markets. The tanks are interchangeable, but petrol cock placement and geometry varies between 750 and 1100.
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Wider bottom? I think the bottom width was always the same. In 1986, the 5.5 gallon tank was introduced on some markets, and it's rounder and taller. Any pics of what you mean?
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How much extra space do you need? A 520 chain has the same pitch and roller diameter but is appr. 3 mm slimmer. Maybe that would do the trick?
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Great. Thanks, Solcambs.
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Just noted that the Nankai store is close to Kawasaki. Maybe I'd get contaminated?
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Thanks, markfoggy. Didn't know they still had stores.
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Does anybody here know of any nice classic Suzuki/bike shops/sites etc in or around Tokyo? If so, does anybody need anything brought to the EU? Bike museums etc would also be of interest. Any input is appreciated.
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Concerning the thread title; Is it a 90/L with 91 fairings or is it an actual 91/M? The reason I bring it up is that the 91/L models are over weight bastards. If it is a 91/M, I'd sell it on. If you can, I'd recommend that you find a 90/L to spend your time and money on. Lighter and better in every way. I've had both, and it's a big difference.
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A proper, reinforced, fuel hose would easily take the abuse from hose pliers for a few days. Get another tap, trust your needle valves or skip the trip.
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On 2018-04-25 at 9:14 PM, clivegto said:
Acetal lock stops made by Hudson performance engineering.
Very nice! Any pics of them fitted?
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Ok. Obviously something is wrong with your tap. A temporary solution, to save your upcoming trip, may be to use some lockable hose pliers on the petrol hose when you're away, and fix it properly when you return.
Connecting Rod C2C Length
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by Nik
I saved some photos from the old OSS site, concerning rod dimensions. Unfortunately, I do not know who shared them, but I hope he/she doesn't mind that I share them again. I know you asked for 750 rods, but I share 1100s too, in case others are interested.
Note: I am pretty sure that the GSX-R 1100 86-88 rod C2C is 117.37 (the photo below says 117.4).