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Posts posted by Nik
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Does it flow petrol when not under vacuum?
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Also, don't forget to check the float levels. It makes a lot more difference than most people realise. IIRC, BST36 should be set to 15 mm.
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My setup; Powerscreen engine, with R cams, 4-1 Yoshi, BST36 carbs with two vacuum holes in the throttles, dual V&H filters, 155 mains, up one or two steps on pilot jets, lowered the needle one groove. Ran very well with nice and even torque curve. The filters/airbox make a big difference on draw. My V&H filters are relatively worn/free flowing. If you use airbox or well-oiled foam filters, you need smaller main jet (my gut feeling says 135-145). Good luck!
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It could be that the arrows and numbers on the cam sprockets (which I presume you used when you installed the cams) are on different locations on the g and f cams, and you'd have to set cam timing manually. I don't know for sure, but it would explain what happened. Do you have both pairs of sprockets, so you can compare?
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Tapping into the oil cooling system for cam oil supply is useful on engines with e.g. big block cylinders (where the cylinder block internal oil passages are non-existent, or restricted), but otherwise there is no reason for having them. In theory, you actually lower the oil pressure when connecting the cooling system with the oiling system. How much diffference it makes in real life is debatable (since people obviously use them, without major disasters reported), but it certainly doesn't make oiling better.
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6 hours ago, Spirit said:
Not sure that's an accepted fact across the board...I know a lot of people who use them.....
Accepted "facts" and facts are two different things. ;-)
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43 minutes ago, johnr said:
ah, i never realised that the 1200 wasnt actually a 1200, told you i was a newby to this oilcooled mullarkey stuff.
Welcome, and stay curious! :-)
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Great info, Canamant! Thnx.
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I agree with 1460, the 1100f cams will make your engine peak at relatively low rpm, e.g. 9,000 rpm, and any 1100 CDI would achieve that. Stay away from the 750 CDIs, since their rev limit is higher, and a missed gear could make your engine over rev (been there, done that, splitting an 1127 GSXR 1100 crank because of a 750 CDI on an 1127).
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I am not sure what APE's top end oiler kits look like but make sure you do not fit a kit connecting the cooling channels with the pressure/oiling channels, i.e. a kit that draws oil from the cylinder head cover to the cam shaft ends. The only proper source of additional oil supply to the cams is the oil gallery underneath the crank.
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Going from 1127 to 1157 cc is not worth the effort. Save your efforts 'til you can do a proper upgrade.
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1 hour ago, Rsvfletch said:
5356 filler rod and made it have it!
Great info. Thanks, Rsvfletch. Any other tricks when weldning such forged (I presume it's forged) aluminium?
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6 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
Nice! What kind of aluminium did you use when you welded it?
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I've had several brass tubes falling out on their own, when turning the head upside down. On other heads, they've been stuck like crazy. I guess the tolerances on the machining and/or brass tube bulge varies quite a bit. Heat and som mild force and you'll be fine.
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2 minutes ago, Lachie04 said:
Recently did a rebuild and my guy cc'd the head the DOT head volume was 22.5 ml and the 750 piston crown was @4.31 ml (probably within a whisker of a 1127 piston would suspect) at least give you a ball park to look at
There is a few sites that have calculators for CR some are different and come out with all sorts of different values but this one looks reasonable unless you want to work it all out yourself
Great info!
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On 2018-03-06 at 11:53 PM, Rene EFE said:
We’re a weird bunch
Some more than others!
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13 hours ago, Rene EFE said:
No. If anything, a bike needs dyno-time. Jet kits are a bodge in a nice package.
I run a powerscreen motor with dual K/N's and I'm on a 155 mains. According to anyone and anything, it shouldn't work because it's WAY too big. Dynotested; 135Bhp
I used to run a similar setup, Powerscreen engine, with R cams, 4-1 Yoshi, BST36 carbs with two vacuum holes in the throttles, dual V&H filters, 155 mains, up one or two steps on pilot jets, lowered the needle one groove. Ran very well with nice and even torque curve.
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2 hours ago, carl t said:
is the vespa 150 way faster than the xj6 too?
Mine is! By far! Carl, you have a PM with photo evidence.
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To OP, dialling in cams may seem complicated and a bit scary, but it isn't. If you're patient and somewhat sober, and take it slowly step by step, you'll find that it's no big deal. Making up your mind on timing, overlap etc is another thing ...
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22 hours ago, bigbang said:
A bit of offtopic, if I may. Nik, I noticed you have a Vespa 150. Can you put a photo of it? I have one too (1962, I think) waiting to get fixed. My father bought it new, and it doesn't work for many, many years... Maybe I'll get inspired by yours and start to work on it.
PM sent, so the rest of you guys don't get exposed to non-Suzuki photos.
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4 hours ago, bigbang said:
Yes, these are not very common, at least here in Portugal. I knew the Bandit1200, not this one.
Now I have to get it serviced, because it was stored without working for a long time.
A bit of offtopic, if I may. Nik, I noticed you have a Vespa 150. Can you put a photo of it? I have one too (1962, I think) waiting to get fixed. My father bought it new, and it doesn't work for many, many years... Maybe I'll get inspired by yours and start to work on it.
☺ I'll see what I can find.
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14 hours ago, bigbang said:
Hello everyone
I just bought a '00 GSX 1200, I don't know much about this model but it was a good deal so I just bought it...
Now I'm doing some research and I have a (stupid?...) question about it. I found this forum so I thought I could get some help.
The sides of the engine are black (like in the GSX750), not polished like it was suposed to be in the 1200... How do I know that a previous owner didn't have a problem with the original engine and got a 750 cc to replace it? Is there anything on the outside of the engine that can confirm that it is the 1156 cc?
I know the way it goes should be enough to clarify the differences between engines, but I don't really have something to compare with, since I had a XJ600 many years ago and this one, beeing 750 or 1200, goes waaay faster...
Regards
If your engine model no. (right-hand side, above the clutch cover) begins with a "V", the engine is 1100-1200 cc, i.e. 1127 or 1157 cc in your case.
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I used to work a lot in the U.S. and often spent my spare time searching for car and motorcycle parts, wherever I was. When I ran into Web cams (somewhere close to L.A.), I had them do a set of rocker arms for my oil boilers. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was a lot cheaper than APE (where I used to purchase hard-welded rocker arms). It's probably 10 years ago by now, but it could be worth a try.
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I was looking at them too. How many times have you crashed with them?
1200 Bandit running rough, carb problems
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by Nik
You say it's been dynojetted. Does that mean that your emulsion tubes and needles are Dynojet? My experience with Dynojet is that they are crap. Their parts are made from cheese, and wear severely. It could be the cause of your problems.