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Upshotknothole

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About Upshotknothole

  • Birthday January 6

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    Portland, OR

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  1. Cool, I've already got a 95 W fork with stripped axle threads, figure it's worth it to buy a cheap SRAD fork and see if I can combine them. SRAD uppers and internals and keep the W lower and stock speedo drive. If it works I'll buy a nice set of SRAD forks and upgraded internals. Need to finish my current projects first though.
  2. It's a GSXF 750, not a Katana. Katanas were made in the 80s, that thing they sent to the US is not a Katana. Bars are standard 7/8", but don't think you have much spare room on them to mount anything. You do have a lot of blank plastic around your gauges that you could mount to. Check out phone mounts that use the steering stem, also most of us on here don't ride with phone mounts or have old GSXRs that have no room for a phone around the gauges.
  3. Yeah, I noticed a lot of parts overlap between them. Axles, wheels, etc. Feel like Suzuki was using the same basic Showa forks in everything except the 1100s back then. Gonna hold off for now, but I think I'll grab a cheap used set of SRAD forks in the future and take them apart and see how they compare. I was comparing upgrade parts on Race Tech between the W and SRADs and the cartridges are different, but everything else was using the same rebuild parts. Maybe get some nicer aftermarket SRAD cartridges and swap them into W lowers and get some higher quality forks that still look period correct.
  4. I was looking online at rebuild parts for 95 750W parts, then looked up the parts for 99 SRAD 750 forks, and I saw a lot of overlap. I know the SRAD forks are slightly shorter, but is there any reason you couldn't put 750W lowers into SRAD uppers with SRAD internals and get the benefits of slightly newer internals? Or SRAD internals in W forks? There very well may be something that I'm missing that's totally incompatible, but the only thing I'm really seeing that's different in the parts diagrams are the lowers and the damper rod. Also not even sure if SRAD forks are a real upgrade over W forks, so I'm open to any input. Thanks
  5. Off topic, but what engine is that? I see that you have the slabbie valve cover with the integrated breather.
  6. They're reed valves. Keep the reeds and block off the covers. The hoses are just emissions crap. https://gsxrzone.com/reedplates.html
  7. If you can find a set for a good price, dropping weight where you can always helps. Just plan on making custom spacers for the rear unless you're running a W swing arm.
  8. Yup, slightly lighter. Fronts are interchangeable, rears have different spacing.
  9. They’re about $100 here in the states, but I’ll still order one up and test fit it on a few heads. See what it does and doesn’t fit.
  10. Great, time to start looking for a 1052 cover now.
  11. No clearance issues with the 1052 cover on an 1127 head? I like the idea of that much extra room for an 1127 in a 750K frame.
  12. I'm in the states and it took me ages to track these down. Sorry, not for sale. I'll go out to my garage later and measure it, it's been snowing all morning and not in any rush to go out there at the moment. Also the dimensions for the sleeves can be found here. http://gsxrzone.com/sleeves.html
  13. I’ve got a spare big bore cylinder block. I can measure it, it’s bored for 1340/1371 liners but is currently bare. Really not much meat left between 1&2, 3&4.
  14. All the 90-95 USD front ends are pretty interchangeable. I can’t remember what the steering stop on the GSXFs looks like, the GSXR USD lower triples had two different styles, so one of them will probably match up. You’ll need the GSXR triples, calipers, axle, spacer, wheel, and rotor. Speedo drive is probably the same. Swap in some GSXR cams and carbs and you’ll wake that engine up, or swap in a GSXR 1100.
  15. Did a quick mock up tonight with the TLR fender. The front bolt holes need to be spaced out a little bit, they’re pinching the sides in. Rear bolt holes seem to be pretty close to spot on. Once I get some spacers in there I’ll see if I need to shave the inner part of the fender to clear the rotors.
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