Diebythereaper

Run away! Miles and miles and thousands of miles away! At this stage he needs to sort his reputation out completely, he needs to build a dozen frames in advance and sell them - anyone and everyone bar a rare few have had issues with him and he robbed them and left them with nothing, deposits and no frames for years on end, sometimes sub standard work Run away! I don't know where you would go to now for a tubular frame

Thank you! thats what I was thinking

So my engine coming along and want to get the clutch fitted - turns out my outer basket is 73 teeth and appears too big for the main gear on the crank , engine is an 1127 K model afaik Can you guys tell me what's the correct basket for this engine? Is it possibly a 72 tooth one or do I have the wrong crank in my engine? thanks!

Now that's a well thought out reply Sandman and thank you! I am concerned about detonation with our ever changing fuel situation which will continue to change, from what you are saying them I will be fine with whatever I do. I mentioned the Dyna deliberately as I knew people would say Ignitech, thing is I have a Dyna on the shelf for this build for years and they are fine. I don't need to chase every last hp out of the engine I just want something I can work on and use myself.

I'm going to go with 11.5:1 I think and set the ignition timing at 36degrees and that should do forever more I hope?! If anyone has any thoughts about that let me know please

I'll be on CV carbs for road use and running a dyna 2000 ignition as I've never had a problem with them personally.

Hi guys, With our ever changing fuels and more coming I am currently doing a big bore Gsxr motor for a road project and want to know what is the best comp ratio to be aiming for? I know in the past we could do 12.5:1 and run good fuel and it will be fine but I don't have that option - Where I am the only choice is what is in the pump (currently E5 and prob E10 on the way) and no high octane unleaded or any of that. Does 12:1 sound like a good goal for regular petrol or should I go lower? I honestly don't know thanks

Would 100ms not be safer for the gearbox?? Or is it too long??

Any update Allspeeds? Lockdown might be helping you give some time to this project

Polish with autosol/belgom/ whatever then seal with two coats of good carnuba car wax (pay for it) and then keep frame out of a damp shed When ride and it gets wet and you get home blow it off with an airline and wipe dry with a cloth and away you go If you leave the water sitting on the frame it will "pit" it when it corrodes All the joys of owning an aluminium tubular frame, if it is not for you then maybe sell the bike on but do not powdercoat or anything that cannot be easily reversed - just my two cents from having owned one for many years

JE make them as well - Dont know about a link, bought them from Sir Upperton a good few years ago, he looked after the boring of the block for me and ported the head as well

Wiseco

1246 on standard B12 block - Building one myself - Best way to go IMO and saves cost and heat issues with big block

1246

Timing marks on the cam sprockets are more often than not out a little - Lee Workman did a few great articles in Streetfighters mag years ago on cam timing and how to dial in oil cooled engines - 110 degrees is a great setting for Gsxr/bandit engines to get power higher up in the rev range as thats what these engines are designed for N/A - It is hard to beat even on a turbo so I would recommend this timing also.