Huge747 Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 I've used 1166 , 1327 and 1425 cc in my road bikes with different cams / heads. I would definitely go for the 1166 kit. That is a really ice setup for road work. Adjustable cam sprockets and some work on the head and you got a really fun road bike. Regardent squish , I have once used 0,5 mm squish in my 1425 cc race engine. I blew one piston and valves...and I used heavy duty rods. So for a street bike - don't go there ! Rads Henrik Quote
nlovien Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 On 10/20/2018 at 8:32 AM, Reinhoud said: Do con rods stretch that much?!! recently read up on an interesting take on this, so your on the performance trail and have a bit of dosh to go exotic - ok so a set of Ti rods - forsure less reciprocating mass is a good thing - but hold on, Ti doesn't stretch as much as steel - so you replace your steel rods and away yi go - except there's an edge off the the top end - hmm - soo the steel rod stretches as you hit high rpm, the squish closes up - = faster burn and a bit more compression - the engine kinda gets - self faster the higher the rpm you go - -- swapping in the Ti rods without any other tweeks and you loose this ok this is the sort of stuff when you've already got everything else everyone else has and you still want to find that little bit extra - eh - i'm usually happy if all cylinders fire up in the desired order of things rod stretch isn't a bad thing - not accommodating for it is 3 Quote
Gammaboy Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 5 hours ago, nlovien said: recently read up on an interesting take on this, so your on the performance trail and have a bit of dosh to go exotic - ok so a set of Ti rods - forsure less reciprocating mass is a good thing - but hold on, Ti doesn't stretch as much as steel - so you replace your steel rods and away yi go - except there's an edge off the the top end - hmm - soo the steel rod stretches as you hit high rpm, the squish closes up - = faster burn and a bit more compression - the engine kinda gets - self faster the higher the rpm you go - -- swapping in the Ti rods without any other tweeks and you loose this ok this is the sort of stuff when you've already got everything else everyone else has and you still want to find that little bit extra - eh - i'm usually happy if all cylinders fire up in the desired order of things rod stretch isn't a bad thing - not accommodating for it is Yeah, sorry, that's a load of bollocks. Look up the elastic modulus of Ti vs Steel. Quote
nlovien Posted November 6, 2018 Posted November 6, 2018 forsure - I have also read folks commenting it is the opposite way around - i.e. swap the above around - don't have any personal experience with this but my consideration would be on the benefits of the Ti strength to mass ratio - i.e. you have room to increase the cross section of the Ti rod anyway - this is where I picked the comment up - this guy seems to know what he's doing, a bit whacky in his approach but some interesting stuff http://www.mototuneusa.com/power_news_--_the_factory_superbike.htm Quote
Ibbo Posted November 7, 2018 Posted November 7, 2018 On a road bike you can't beat a big bore kit. On a race bike I actually went slower with cams in, but the class didn't allow a bigger bore. Quote
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