running decent, finally~!

[riversbikes]

After wasting days of my life last summer trying to get my CV carbs to work, I bought a set of RS36s, and Frank's MX intakes.  Took some farting around to get them installed, but the bike finally runs as it should, or close to it.  120 mains, fuel screw out 1/2 turn.  Needles were left where they were set at the factory, and I think I'm a tad lean -- when rolling on the throttle, it is a bit flat, and sounds like "whoooaaar" until it gets to the main jet where it takes off.  I did properly set the accelerator pump according to the manual.  Any thoughts?  Should I lift the needles up one notch?  Here's a pic of the bike with the old carbs on.

[Guest YoshiJohnny]

try richening the pilot circuit a little try the mixture screws at 1.5 turns out

[riversbikes]

Really?  The manual says 1/4 to 1/2 max... although that's far easier than raising the needles...

Edited April 22, 2018 by riversbikes

[Guest YoshiJohnny]

bike looks well.... 

you need to re-route the front brake line though...it will catch on your fairing and cause big stains in your pants lol

[MeanBean49]

Save the faffing and guess work and stick it on a dyno

[KATANAMANGLER]

My 1100 has RS36s and I'm running 130s. Might be a bit rich mind.

[riversbikes]

2 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:

Save the faffing and guess work and stick it on a dyno

No dyno nearby, but I might throw it in the van and go for a (long) drive...

[MeanBean49]

6 hours ago, riversbikes said:

No dyno nearby, but I might throw it in the van and go for a (long) drive...

Ahh I see. Other option is to temp fit an AFR gauge and a go pro. Record the gauge on a rideout.

[Foz]

As said the 1100 settings for 36’s is a 130 main jet , i’m going to fit 36’s on my 1216 and will probably start about 132.5 or 135 seeing as my 38’s run one size up on standard at 137.5 instead of the factory 135

[riversbikes]

Getting there... I think I might end up at 130 mains.  Doh!

[markfoggy]

Have a little look at the slides from the engine side. The crescent cut out on that side of the slides needs to have a decent gap on a closed throttle for the pilot circuit to work properly.

You normally know that something is wrong 'cause you get the bike hanging revs on a closed throttle, but seeing as you are in Canada, I doubt that you've been out much yet.

I've seen 2 sets of new Mikis, where although the carbs are set balanced, the slide height is wrong from new.

Simple visual check before you go running around chasing shadows.  

[Mariobasso]

Looks awesome

[riversbikes]

5 hours ago, markfoggy said:

Have a little look at the slides from the engine side. The crescent cut out on that side of the slides needs to have a decent gap on a closed throttle for the pilot circuit to work properly.

You normally know that something is wrong 'cause you get the bike hanging revs on a closed throttle, but seeing as you are in Canada, I doubt that you've been out much yet.

I've seen 2 sets of new Mikis, where although the carbs are set balanced, the slide height is wrong from new.

Simple visual check before you go running around chasing shadows.  

Thanks for the advice -- I did check that on the bench before install, and the bike is running well at low and part throttle, and perfect on a closed throttle.  With the 130s in, it's definately better at WOT, but when I "crack" the throttle open, it does bog and sound lean again before slowing taking off.  I did set the accelerator pump to the 1/4 open, 3/4 stop setting.  I do know that the RSs need to be finessed a bit when opening the throttle.   Still seems lean on the main... considering trying a 132.5 or a 135 main...  Checked the brand new plugs, very clean -- not sooty (rich) or white (lean).  Although to be honest I've not run it for miles and miles.  With the stock carbs, I was so rich no matter what settings I tried I turned two sets of plugs black and killed all the mosquitos in the neighborhood (with black smoke -- fuel).  I've called around re a dyno - the only one in MB is wary to work with a carbed bike -- they just want to hook a laptop up to a powercommander and go from there...

[riversbikes]

I also read I should set the accelerator pump to NOT engage while you are farting around with jetting -- could mask another problem...

[Foz]

It's easier without the pump working initially, then tailor when and how much fuel is pumped afterwards. Sometimes pumping less fuel is better as it doesn't drown the engine and cause it to bog

[riversbikes]

Turns out a new shop in Winnipeg does have a dyno -- but mainly works with EFI Harleys.  When I take it there, I'll bring my tools and my jets as I can likely swap them out quicker than they could.  Question -- should I still have the accelerator pump disconnected for the first pulls, or should I try to set it up first?  Like I said above, I think I'm still lean on the main jet and am waiting for some 132.5 and 135s to come in.  When I roll on the throttle, it does just bog before slowly coming on again...