Taylor HT leads

[Sheep]

Am I right in thinking Taylor leads are carbon cored?..The reason I ask is because I went out today for the first time since fitting the Dynatec DRL400 2 stage limiter and I am having issues with poor/intermittent running...The trouble is I have also re-wired the coil feed wires to incorporate some quick release Superseal connectors so the problem may be those.I just wanted to rule out interference from the leads....The bike ran sweet as a nut last time out and has done all winter so I am ruling out the carbs.

If the leads are carbon then I shouldn't get EMI upsetting the limiter so it can only be the coil supply...

The symptoms are holding back under full load at anything over 6000rpm with much coughing and popping.Then I may lose cylinders 2/3.A gloved poke under the tank seems to cure it until the next time.Slowly raising the revs in neutral it bounces around 6-7000 rpm.Thinking it could be the limiter I pulled the negative feed to it and it still did it.( the limiter bracket does need attention as it vibrates more than I would like at certain rpm's)

Launch function works fine but it's of no use if I cannot rev it much higher lol...oh and when the limiter kicks in it is a smooth cut,not a harsh one.

One more thing which I found odd is my speedo which is a bicycle battery type with a pick up from the front wheel.As I was riding carefully home I noticed it was going loopy,sometimes reading,sometimes looking like I had dropped it on the floor but it operated normally once I had got home...Odd...

[Dezza]

Yep, the leads have a carbon core. It's definitely not copper or any other metal and few other materials will be effective conductors. Maybe corrosion where the lead meets the coil. Have you tried new plugs? Fitting new connectors if anything can solve running problems such as you describe rather than cause them but I suppose it is not impossible. I assume you have used new fuel and you drained your carbs before last using your bike as we all know what a pain stale fuel can be.

Those bike speedos work on a magnet and a contact on the wheel don't they? I am guessing this problem will be caused by something unique to the speedo unit and is a coincidence with the running issue. Try the usual - check for corroded connections and in the battery compartment in the unit. New battery needed?

[Sheep]

That's the thing Dezza,I have all new connectors on the loom.I even took pics of the mods for the project section as I do not take enough for the thread...When I first built the bike I used the quick release connectors simply to make maintenance easier,that way I do not have to remove the coils every time I want to work on the bike.I had issues back then which really turned out to be carbs  but at the time I removed the connectors and hard wired the loom to the coils just to irradiate the possibility it was this causing issues.

Fast forward to this month and I fitted the connectors again along with new crimps/terminals,all soldered and heatshrunk for good measure.....the coils now have their own fly leads to each wire going to them.Everything was wired carefully and neatly...What I could do is pop off the wire connectors from the limiter then test it.If it still does it then I will hard wire the main loom to the coils,again!...

The Dyna limiter does come with piggy-back terminals which you attach to the coils and simply push fit the Dyna wires to them.I didn't like to use them as they were un-insulated and my coils sit close to the tank/frame.

The speedo issue may be coincidence but this is the one and only time it has played up...which made me think its the electrics/interference messing with it as it too uses a wire running up the headstock past  the coils.

Fuel is good and plugs too.....it was running fine 2 weeks ago!!...I may cut my losses and hard wire the main loom anyway and keep the limiter on a fly lead,

[Sheep]

Ok peeps.a little update....

I have now hard wired the coils back as Suzuki intended but I left the fly leads on the coils for the Dyna Limiter.I left those connected too for the test ride so I could check any progress one step at a time.

First run showed the problem is still there so I know the superseal connectors to the coils were not to blame.I pulled over to take off the black/negative lead to the battery from the Dyna to isolate that.Tried the run again and it's still the same......So I stopped again and pulled the positive feed for the limiter from the positive side of the coil not thinking it would make any difference as it couldn't work with the black wire off surely,but I was wrong and the bike ran fine and revved as it should.....

Checking my wiring diagram at home I found I had wired it correctly,as far as I am aware so it beggars the question why is the Dyna playing me up??...Surely taking off the negative feed to it would have isolated any faults but I wondered whether the coils were feeding any sort of signal back and forth down the positive wire upsetting the firing.

I have placed the box as far away from the coils as the wires would let me without extending them that is.

Anybody have any ideas why this is behaving like this...I have put a diagram up to enlighten you

 

[Samikoo]

1 hour ago, Sheep said:

Checking my wiring diagram at home I found I had wired it correctly,as far as I am aware so it beggars the question why is the Dyna playing me up??...Surely taking off the negative feed to it would have isolated any faults but I wondered whether the coils were feeding any sort of signal back and forth down the positive wire upsetting the firing.

 

What do you mean by negative feed? The black wire? It is there to ground the unit properly, and without it the unit will find ground somewhere else. That's what causes most electrical problems, poor grounding. The reason yours is cutting your revs is beyond me.

Do you have a picture of the system installed on your bike?

[Sheep]

Yes mate the black wire.It's not going to an engine bolt/chassis but straight to the neg side of the battery....I was assuming that on the test run I could simply un-hook this to remove the unit from further test runs to see if it was causing the faults.Removing just the black wire did not do anything to help.

I did take a couple of pics for the project page but they do not show much,not in the coil area anyway....

I cannot find many posts on the net with people experiencing issues however one guy did have issues and it turned out he had wired the launch cut wires (purple red) to the o/e clutch switch just as I have,but found when he removed these wires the unit worked fine.He went on to say the clutch switch needs to be totally independent from the main loom!!!!

Might be worth a try.

These wires here are the fly leads coming from the coils to the unit

Edited March 29, 2018 by Sheep

[matt]

Hi, It sounds like the stutter function of the box is engaged, if you adjust the lo limit do the revs as which it starts coughing and popping alter?

It may be that your clutch switch is permanately closed circuit.

I had one on my 7/11 a few years ago but only used it as a rev limiter.

[Gixer1460]

Without being obvious - these are for competition bikes with minimal looms, designed to go from A 2 B 2 C. Trying to retain std. wiring and piggy back extra sub circuits will likely produce the effects experienced. The clutch switch needs to be NO, if all the other usual starting inhibitor bollux is still in circuit its possible to defeat the switch.

With electrics............ K I S S.

[Sheep]

Cheers for the help guys... I think i may have solved the problem but not sure why it was so in the first place as i had wired it as per instructions but i tried one more thing by attaching the red pos lead straight to the battery just for a test at least. This seemed to do the job. Next i will fit in a switch to do the job properly rather than tap i to the loom. Then i can switch it on and off when i need to.... Why having it on the coil pos would cause issues is beyond me!!! 

Just to add,I have a standard loom fitted but without side indicators and simple on or off headlight,....just enough to run the engine and be seen by car drivers lol...

I initially was going to buy the 300,a simple over-rev limiter but went for the 400  for the launch few a few ££ extra.

Edited March 30, 2018 by Sheep