VJ Posted November 6, 2017 Posted November 6, 2017 Say i had a bit of a 'bitsa' style motor build, a gsx1100g with a dot head and gsx1100f cams, how vital is it for me to slot the cam sprockets and degree in the cams? Im hoping for sensible midrange grunt without it? Cheers Vj Quote
wraith Posted November 6, 2017 Posted November 6, 2017 Mr Suzuki did the standard can timing as a good all round timing, if you where tuning the motor and wanted the most bhp out of it then yes slotted cam sprockets and doing the cam timing is good but if you're after a good easy motor and don't need/want to get evey bhp out of it keep the standard timing. Don't for get with can timing you can give it more bhp or more torque 1 Quote
canamant Posted November 6, 2017 Posted November 6, 2017 Black art. Due to production tolerances the standard timing marks may not be accurate. Always better to do your own timing check with a degree wheel and dial gauge. See what you get then see if it is different to the Suzuki specifications. I have slotted cam sprockets on both my race bikes and on my set up the standard camshaft marks are way out. Quote
VJ Posted November 7, 2017 Author Posted November 7, 2017 I suppose i don't know what I want from it until i see what the 'standard' bhp/nm is then? I prefer torque over bhp after missing my old b12 engined teapot but as long as the stock timing will work i guess i'll have to dyno it then decide. Obviously I'lldo a few rotationsof the crank by hand first to make sure its clear. Cheers Vj Quote
nlovien Posted November 7, 2017 Posted November 7, 2017 (edited) going through the process of accurately finding TDC in prep for cam timing is also beneficial in accurately setting your ignition timing - generically ( i.e. not to any specific engine) the std means of setting the base ignition timing is subject to wear via worn slots /pins bolt holes etc.. - only takes a small movement to loose / gain maybe 5 deg actually measuring your existing cam timing ( not necessarily changing it) also gives your base setting - known versus assumed = this will help you down the road when you get some performance data to work with any one variable may not make a noticeable change however the sum of all variables will - fook knows who quoted that, they weren't daft though Edited November 7, 2017 by nlovien Quote
wraith Posted November 7, 2017 Posted November 7, 2017 PS. You will find the DOT head will make a lot of difference. Quote
KATANAMANGLER Posted November 7, 2017 Posted November 7, 2017 8 hours ago, VJ said: I suppose i don't know what I want from it until i see what the 'standard' bhp/nm is then? I prefer torque over bhp after missing my old b12 engined teapot but as long as the stock timing will work i guess i'll have to dyno it then decide. Obviously I'lldo a few rotationsof the crank by hand first to make sure its clear. Cheers Vj Broadly speaking power lower down and in the middle means spreading the vavle centres minimising overlap. Quote
VJ Posted November 7, 2017 Author Posted November 7, 2017 Anyone got any ideas of what bhp/nm i should expect from this? If my searching is correct then the powerscreen cams are pretty much the same as the stock dot head cams, and well an 1127 barrel is an 1127 barrel right? so surely my bhp/nm should be around the same as any 1127 engine running a dot head and simmilar intake exhaust? (going to be airbox rubbers with pipercross filters over the top and open ish pipes) So all those assumptions gives me an idea of what to look for, can i find a dynosheet for an 1127 with a dot head and filters? Can i F**k Quote
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