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1980 Suzuki GS1000 stator


Chopn1000

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What's up fellas I own a 1980 Suzuki GS1000 bobber I've done a lot of custom work to it as far as Cosmetics. Changed the seat, lowered seat pan, Stripped all marker lights/signals off, cut rear fairing off, new tail lights new brake lights lowered it, removed highway bars, remove front fairing brackets, really haven't done anything towards the motor yet except cut off ugly/dangerous torpedo pipes. New interstate battery. I'm from St Joseph Missouri

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Edited by Chopn1000
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10 minutes ago, Chopn1000 said:

I just figured a bigger stator would give me more voltage to the ignition system. Where can I get one for a decent price. Plus I don't believe that mine is charging my battery properly

No, you're barking up the wrong tree.

The voltage of the entire electrical system is set by the voltage regulator to around 12V and shouldn't go much higher. The ignition system is supplied by this, so it's set to 12V, no matter what alternator stator you have. And so it should be, it won't work otherwise.

In terms of power output, that stock alternator can supply more power than the stock bike will ever need, as long as it is in good shape.

The ignition system has a low power demand, so if your lights are working ok, the ignition system will be more than happy.

Also, the stock ignition system is normally very efficient and more than good enough for anything but a tuned engine. If you're having some issues, either look elsewhere, or make  sure the ignition system is working as advertised by checking the  spark, timing and connections. Fit new plugs and plug caps, and trim back the HT leads, for example.

If you want to upgrade the ignition system anayway, Dyna coils will give a 'hotter' spark at a higher voltage, whilst still only needing a 12V input. I think your bike already has electronic ignition anyway, doesn't it? So you don't really need to upgrade that.

HTH :)

Edited by gs7_11
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11 minutes ago, Chopn1000 said:

 Plus I don't believe that mine is charging my battery properly

Just seen your edit....crossed posts!

Check out the connections from the alternator, plus all your earths. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals. As long as you're getting more than 13.5V or so, when the engine is revved then all is good in that area. The charging system is working.

If the battery shows less voltage with the engine stopped, or if it shows appreciably less after standing for a while, maybe the battery is duff.

Either way, fix the fault before looking for an upgrade.

(I don't know BTW if your model has the earlier wiring arrangement that puts 1 phase through the light switch, and is known to be sometimes problematic. Either way, a voltmeter across the battery will reveal all!)

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  • 2 years later...

Do the Quick test

At the battery, measure:

1. Key off voltage

2. Starter button pressed voltage

3. Idle voltage

4. Voltage at 4,000 rpm

Also, did you clean all of the electrical connections and switches? They corrode and will cause voltage drop and heat build up.

 

 

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