Sheep Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 Peeps,I have an EFE with K1 series forks,1100 stretched swingarm and K5 shock.The bike sits on it nose a little,which looks cool but a recent rwyb at the strip showed an issue with traction on the rear tyre.I am not intending to get into drag racing seriously as I haven't the money,its more of a 'dabble' shall we say.... Anyhoo,I have been told I need to lower the back end a little to aid grip so I made up some simple links to replace the Lust dog-bones with a couple more holes in them.It did lower the bike and it was definitely noticeable on the road in that it requires more effort to turn it and it tramlines a little more than before but it's nothing I didn't expect after reading about suspension mods on here. Now I have lowered the back should I bring the front down a little to compensate?....I am aware this will reduce my ground clearance but it shouldn't be an issue. What say you? Quote
Duckndive Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 A pic would be good......a poorly set up rear shock my we'll be part off your traction issue....and tyre pressure can play a big part.... Quote
Sheep Posted July 10, 2017 Author Posted July 10, 2017 Not the best pic but the only one since lowering it.....it does sit slightly lower when off the stand (sag).. 1 Quote
homer Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) It looks quite high to me. I know it will feel "slower" to turn if you lower the rear end more. Headstock angle changes as you know. My bike was a bit higher at the back before I decided to go turbo. I did lower it few years ago and now it goes like a train. It was better to ride twisties when arse was higher but now it is more stable and better suited for straightline fun. Slam that to the ground Edited July 10, 2017 by homer Forgot to give my opinion Quote
Duckndive Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 Yes that's high "still" for drag racing you ideally want the rear wheel spindle to be higher than the swinging arm spindle with the rear shock fully loaded "compressed " as you launch.....you can sort the front end to match by a combination of dropping in the yokes and a strap..... Quote
Sheep Posted July 10, 2017 Author Posted July 10, 2017 Okey doke...advice on lowering the back further???....is it simply longer links again?(Bearing in mind its still on the road )...and if so would this have negative effects on the shock I'm using? Cheers guys. Quote
Duckndive Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 I use adjustable dog bones....rose joints and turnbuckles from Eblag you can get an idea on length...buy taking existing off and lowering it to someware near and measure new centres.... in the past I used to just have 2 sets off bones and just swop them.....but it's a pain so do adjustable now..... Quote
CockneyRick Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 I had this part extended with 2 holes to choose height from Quote
Duckndive Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) 8 minutes ago, CockneyRick said: How low can you go Much Lower..............This is low......... The arms blandit but the linkage and shock set up is 1100L ....shocks been reworked and re-sprung for the longer arm Edited July 10, 2017 by Duckndive 2 Quote
Duckndive Posted July 10, 2017 Posted July 10, 2017 (edited) 9 minutes ago, CockneyRick said: Bet you didn't dare have lunch LoL... I'm a lardy arse since I gave up smoking about 10 years ago.........so makes no difference ..turbo takes up the slack............... However we always used to send Little Paul off to the crapper to lose that extra pound before racing .... Edited July 10, 2017 by Duckndive 2 Quote
Duckndive Posted July 11, 2017 Posted July 11, 2017 Current version with higher poundage rear spring on reworked k6 shock 1 Quote
Sheep Posted July 13, 2017 Author Posted July 13, 2017 Hands up who is the idiot!!!!.... Tonight I ordered some l/h and r/h rose joints and other bits to fab me some proper links and it occurred to me I may not have fitted the other ones correctly....Sure enough I went to the shed only to find I had put the bolt through the first hole (out of 3 available) which meant the bike was at its original height!!!!.... I proceeded to move the bolt to the end hole but could only manage to get it into the middle hole just before the number plate touched the tyre lol....But it looked fooking sweet It amazed me how little you needed to move the pivot point to bring the back down....As soon as I get the better links fabbed up I will post a 'correct' picture. By the way,is there a rule of thumb to lowering the front 'x' amount to match the rear??? Quote
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