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help with fuel lines on slingshot


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Posted

I could do with a bit of advice with my slingshot. It's an 1100k with bandit 1200 engine and carbs. The carbs have a single inlet for the fuel line and the fuel tap has a twin outlet. I've been out and bought a plastic T piece and some extra line. I've used the existing fuel line to go to the carb and used the new line to go to each of the fuel tap outlets. When I'm putting the tank in place the lines are getting crushed and it's cutting off the fuel. The extra fuel line I've bought has the same inner diameter as the old one but a thinner outer which is causing it to nip.

The bike won't run unless I remove the riders seat, remove the 2 tank bolts and lift the tank 2 inch up in the air to uncrush the lines.

Its tight as hell for room under there, so I'm wondering what's the best way round this problem. I think first I need to get some more thicker fuel line, so it won't kink as easily, but thicker line is going to cause even more problems with the tight space. So I'm wondering, do I actually need to use both the outlets from the gsxr tap? It would make life easier if I only needed one, the bandit I ripped apart as a donor only had a single outlet on the fuel tap. If this is the best thing to do, what's the best way of blocking off one of the fuel tap outlets?

Or will it be better with the set up as it is but with thicker fuel line that won't kink?

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Posted

just use one outlet of the tap (the one which is positioned best for supplying the carbs) and block the other one. I cut off the fuel pipe and inserted a bolt, with a hose clamp on it it does not leak. Whatever you do do NOT use silicone gasket stuff.

Posted

Looking at the picture, the one on the right would be the best one as the out let points away from the tap in the correct direction whereas the left one comes out 90 degrees the other way. I can probably run one line from the right side straight to the carb in a nice smooth run.

Posted

I'd junk that tap and fit a Pingel there so much better.

fitted one to a mates 1100 M which was suffering crushed fuel feeds like yours.

As the Pingel has 2 outlets facing the clutch side you can nicely loop the lines and avoid snagging.

Posted

1/ Junk the vacuum tap, at anything less than as new condition, they are a nightmare.

But if you have to stick with it

2/ Stick some long hose lengths on the 2 ends and find a routing that clears around  everything and then stick the T joint  in somewhere neat. Fuel hose is cheap, so  no need to worry about the cost. As long as the hose cannot be higher than the base of the tank, you should never have a problem. Forget plastic T pieces, utter shite.

3/ stick an inline filter in between the T joint and the carbs. This way you can see if you are carrying any crap down from the tank.

4/ Be aware that current Ethanol based fuel will try to eat everything that you put on the bike. So when you are happy with the routing, get rid of anything rubber based and replace with Tygon.

5/ When you are ready for a final install, stop using Jubilee clips, you want these. https://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/27-ezyclik-m-low-profile-automotive-hose-clip, which might need you to buy a set of pliers  to fit and reuse them, but they are faultless and re-useable.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the replies. All sorted now. I've blocked off one side of the tap by leave 2 inch of fuel line in place, putting a bolt in and then fitting a hose clamp. I went to my local bike shop and they gave me some fuel line for free. I've ran one single line from the other side of the tap to the carb. The fuel line they gave me was thinner that the original one, quite similar in thickness to one the one that was kinking. But this line is lots better, as shown in the pic below, if I bend it tightly it will not kink at all. The main problem that's caused this has been poor quality fuel line. Any bend above 30 degrees would be enough for the line to give up and kink. Markfoggy, thanks for the big reply, but I didn't get to read it until after I had sorted my bike. 

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