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Mk2 Bandit Turbo Build


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Posted
On 11/5/2024 at 1:16 PM, Gixer1460 said:

This is a YT video from what i'd call an excellent engine reconditioning company - its a diesel engine but the principles are exactly the same. If you don't want to see the whole procedure, go to 29.30 for the valve work, but the rest is quite informative. Bear in mind that a dealer was quoting $20k for a new engine, I'm pretty sure this level of detail work would have resulted in a $8-10k bill - but based on what they did and found with parts for the rods at the end - which would you prefer to have (cost excluded)?

 

I agree with his conclusion that most engine problems are "due to the loose nut behind the wheel" - that's brilliant!!

  • Like 1
Posted

No engine work this weekend as waiting for valve seat cutting kit to arrive so sorted workshop and also stripped engine and other bits out of bike.

Rolling chassis now.

IMG_7119.thumb.jpeg.e514c185fd04f60fb6e16cdd987a928e.jpeg
 

Also found a cracked weld but planning to extend arms and brace anyway, so will sort while I’m down there.

I’m also looking at that gap on wishbones and if its correct, doesn’t look right to me.

IMG_7118.thumb.jpeg.328085a10555a5a6b9221483e7edc6c6.jpeg


Drawing up my injection inlets at the moment and will 3D print one to see how it looks, fits etc.

Im looking at how much of the loom may be no use with location of equipment so may start again. Everything runs to rear of bike then all the way back O.o

  • Like 2
Posted

There's a spacer between the dog bones that sits in the bearings in the swing arm, is that bolt on the dog bones tight? They're not going to be pressed right up again the swing arm as they have to turn freely.

  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:

There's a spacer between the dog bones that sits in the bearings in the swing arm, is that bolt on the dog bones tight? They're not going to be pressed right up again the swing arm as they have to turn freely.

Thanks for info, I haven’t checked anything yet as just took photo but will get a proper look once I strip the arm out for bracing and extending. 

Posted

Received the Serdi Micro seat cutter today. If the insert arrives tomorrow and I get time to make the pilot, then may get to cut / butcher some seats the weekend.

IMG_7188.thumb.jpeg.4c7b647775b8c8be823c1d617ef9a3c6.jpeg

Posted

My next job is to make a 5mm pilot for the Serdi but the very last job on my lathe rebuild is the tailstock, which I need accurate to turn the shaft with centre. So I spent today surface grinding and hand scraping the tailstock base. 
 

IMG_7201.thumb.jpeg.9a5def84f80b74984f54df35dd3de08a.jpeg

Following some advice from toolmaker the best way is to turn the pilots true and slightly oversize and then lap them to final size and surface finish.

 

Also got engine mounted on frame ready for piston change once cylinders back from boring.

IMG_7196.thumb.jpeg.2d03b5fb96dae6b30c1d14bb1e2562cd.jpeg

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I have just noticed the cylinder liners are proud on 2 cylinders. I will have to see if these are bottomed out or have slipped during handling. I would guess if it was handling it would be me and not the company who bored them.

They look to be square to block though at a Quick Look so hopefully not bored out of true.

I will clock them before and after seating them.IMG_7208.thumb.jpeg.664b91d96b77449ceaf7192391a879eb.jpeg

Posted

All the liners look to be proud to a greater / lesser degree! Surprised the machine shop never offered to skim / surface the face a) flat and b) perpendicular! Honing angles also look somewhat 'flat' ?

  • Like 1
Posted
9 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

All the liners look to be proud to a greater / lesser degree! Surprised the machine shop never offered to skim / surface the face a) flat and b) perpendicular! Honing angles also look somewhat 'flat' ?

Yeah it’s a little all over the shop. I will check everything is hard home and when it is I will skim on the mill with a light pass.

The shop has good rep and both have history is motorsport so work should be good.

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