Shill Posted February 26, 2019 Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) Maybe another mk1 vs mk2 thing but these were different, 750 is the skinny one, mk2 B1200 is the fat one. I assumed any difference meant I should leave the B12 on the B12, I have no idea how sensitive these things are - for instance the T mark is in line with the trailing edge of the 'leg' on the 750, vs the leading edge of the 'leg' on the B12. I took this to mean a slight difference in timing between the two (?) so left the original on there. Guess the other opposite argument is the 750 CDI works in sync with its normal rotor. Is it likely to make a noticeable difference? Edited February 26, 2019 by Shill more info Quote
1100fred Posted February 26, 2019 Posted February 26, 2019 Yeah there different , according t0 csml part no 3312019c20 is same for gsx750 and 1200 bandit mk1/mk2 somebody on here will be able she’d some light on this Quote
Shill Posted February 26, 2019 Posted February 26, 2019 It was idling a bit lumpy to be fair, could be any number of things but I'll try swapping it once it's back together. Quote
Shill Posted February 26, 2019 Posted February 26, 2019 Using the B12 mk2 carbs, with K&n dual ovals, will need setting up. Quote
cheese monkey Posted February 26, 2019 Author Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) I’m hoping to use the 750 airbox, or is there no chance of that? Don’t mind modifying it a bit! If it has to be pod filters I’ll have to shell out for dyno time Edited February 26, 2019 by cheese monkey Quote
cheese monkey Posted February 26, 2019 Author Posted February 26, 2019 In regards to the electrical side I’m happy making up a new connector. Depends how easy are they to get at to swap over? I’ve got 2.5 days to do it all this weekend, got to be on the road on Monday morning... Slightly nervous. Quote
Shill Posted February 27, 2019 Posted February 27, 2019 (edited) Neutral switch was easy, timing pickup a little more fiddly. I'd say if you're happy doing the connector that's easier. Note the mk2 neutral switch has more wires than gsx (has a sensor to detect low gears as well as neutral?) so will need to find the right ones to join! On the 750 airbox, I'm not sure tbh, what carbs? That might be awkward, the 1200 is tight in the zuma frame, it's slightly taller, if you're using 1200 carbs they're bigger but not sure sure how much by in terms of length, I imagine it might clash. Haven't tried it though! I also found because of the extra height, my 750 headers hit the sump on the B12. Edited February 27, 2019 by Shill Quote
cheese monkey Posted February 27, 2019 Author Posted February 27, 2019 Ah I think in that case swapping the neutral switch over will be easier. And if I do that I may as well swap the pickup too B12 carbs. Got the Bandit airbox to try in there too. Just going to have to give it a go. I’ve got a complete bike to swap parts from so got the exhaust too luckily. Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 1, 2019 Author Posted March 1, 2019 Had to cut the gsx exhaust off it was fused to the head. Just getting it stripped down ready to paint the rusty frame. GSX carbs are 50mm inlet and B12 60mm so standard air box isn't going to be straightforward. The carbs are the same depth, just not sure what the final height difference at the carb inlet will be due to the angle and taller B12 motor. What I expect I will try initially is blanking off the GSX air box, then cutting new larger holes slightly higher and fitting the B12 boots. Also the main fuel line ID is 8mm on the GSX and 10mm on the Bandit. I think I will get the 8mm on to the carb with some gentle persuasion Anyway, time to crack on and get throttle cables off Quote
dupersunc Posted March 1, 2019 Posted March 1, 2019 The inlet ports are lower on the 1200 heads than on the 750 heads, so there won't be a lot of difference in the carb heights. Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 1, 2019 Author Posted March 1, 2019 (edited) Oo don't say things like that I'll end up thinking it will all just line up lol No matter what though the larger boots are going to have to go on so will definitely be some modifications Edited March 1, 2019 by cheese monkey Quote
Shill Posted March 1, 2019 Posted March 1, 2019 Think for the fuel line the other week I used the Bandit hose with the gsx clamp on it. Not as much ‘stretch’ in the hose over the tap outlet as you’d want, but the smaller clamp kept it tight. Would need to keep an eye on it. Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 1, 2019 Author Posted March 1, 2019 Ok cool. Wonder what other fuel taps would fit? Ive ordered a 8/10mm reducer Quote
Shill Posted March 2, 2019 Posted March 2, 2019 Apparently Fazer 600 fuel tap also fits and takes less space. Hope it goes well this weekend mate! Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 2, 2019 Author Posted March 2, 2019 (edited) Just been painting this morning, frame was pretty rusty so it’s got the wire wheel and hammerite treatment. Engine needs a clean and paint next. Fazer fuel tap is only off/on I think? If it fits that’s great but I really quite like the back up of having a vacuum operated tap. Undecided on that one Edited March 2, 2019 by cheese monkey Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 3, 2019 Author Posted March 3, 2019 Engine is in! A few mates came over for the day and we got it done. Really not as bad as I remember. Expanded original airbox holes out to match the B12 rubbers and it all fits together. Absolute pig to get the carbs in though. Had some troubles with the throttle not returning and ended up breaking the crappy plastic throttle sleeve. So got a new one on order, I'm assuming a B6 one is the same or close enough? Will pull the carbs out and cables are connected properly, the pull cable felt like it was running really badly, which is almost certainly why the throttle wasnt returning properly. Choke also got really stiff after muscling the carbs in, so will give that a look over. Not exactly keen on the idea of pulling the carbs out again, but needs must. Still got lots to do on it, but no major hurdles now. Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 5, 2019 Author Posted March 5, 2019 Good news, the airbox fits and even lines up with the original mounting points, with a little bit of muscling. Carbs are very easy to get in and out if you take the battery out so the airbox can move back 1.5cm. Choke was stiff and not returning because of poor cable run and the vacuum blanking bits fouling the choke slide on the carbs. Thats all sorted now. She turns over! No oil in it so only dabbed button to check the starter turns. Neutral switch swap worked too, forgot to check the oil sensor. Throttle tube broke because I'm an idiot and connected the cables the wrong way round. Bad news, coils dont quite fit, they sit on the oil pipes pretty hard, I'm worried if I left them there they would break from the vibrations. So will have to stuff them under the tank somehow. There really isnt much space under there. B12 oil cooler will only line up with alot of effort on one mounting. Rear brake has decided to seize. Sump plug is leaking. All should be fairly easy fixes... Might be running tomorrow if the bits arrive... MOT Thursday... Quote
Shill Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 Nice one dude! Good to hear it went together ok,. Need to wait and see about coils on mine, that was definitely the clash point trying to get it in, didn't notice the contact once fitted. Mine's going together this sunday. Good luck tomorrow! Quote
1100fred Posted March 6, 2019 Posted March 6, 2019 Mine clears the oil pipes but I had to bend a coil bracket back to fit the rocker cover back on and the carbs only just clear the coil as well on the 1200 inazuma Suzuki have relocated the coils up between the top frame rails Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 6, 2019 Author Posted March 6, 2019 Cheers. Maybe if the tank has to come off again I'll have another look at the coil mounting. For the time being they are between the frame rails under the tank. Broke one of the airbox covers when I was taking it off which was a shame. Was only going to paint it black anyway so no big loss. Post man didnt turn up today so still waiting on throttle tube and copper washer for sump plug, which means MOT will have to be postponed to next week. Rear brake was fine, but brake light switch was WAY out of adjustment, god knows how it passed MOTs last few years. Found the B12 fuel pipe was about 1cm too short and just too old, so put a new one on. Using the vacuum from no4 which is pretty tight too, another one to change next time the tanks off. Ran out of things to do so tidied the garage and started stripping the B12 for parts. Good luck on Sunday! Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 6, 2019 Author Posted March 6, 2019 I'll definitely have another look at the coils. Not too worried as they aren't going anywhere for the time being! That looks really nice, clean and smart. Not at all like mine lol Quote
Shill Posted March 7, 2019 Posted March 7, 2019 Looks good there Fred! When I move I need to set up somewhere proper to work in, this is the state of my workspace at the mo First stage every day is 'move all nonessential things out the front of the garage to make room to move around' Quote
cheese monkey Posted March 7, 2019 Author Posted March 7, 2019 She literally fired up on the 1st attempt. Shit loads of smoke from the engine and exhaust paint but apart from that it runs pretty well. Occasional miss on idle but it’s an old girl, it certainly idles ALOT nicer than the 750 did. Shakedown run this evening. Fucking chuffed. 1 Quote
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