simesman Posted July 13, 2019 Posted July 13, 2019 Just rebuilt the slide carbs and they run great now, but noticed a load of fuel leaking around the float bowls. Thought I must have a sticky float needle but traced it to leaky interface between the two middle carbs and the fuel inlet t-piece. I thought it was a little slack when I refitted it. It also has about 2mm of slop so that you can easily shift its position between the two carbs. Looks to me that you cannot get this part any more so is there a standard way to bond this back in place? I suppose I ought to do the same for the joining links between middle and outer carbs too, as they are also 40 years old! Quote
Gixer1460 Posted July 13, 2019 Posted July 13, 2019 Anyway of adding a couple of O rings to the fitting between the bodies? I would guess there should be some sort of flexible seal there anyway? Quote
simesman Posted July 13, 2019 Author Posted July 13, 2019 Thanks, might be able to squish an o-ring either side. The two 'built-in' o-rings on either side of the t-piece have squared off and don't seal now. Shame you can't buy just the rubber top hat pieces that contain the seals. I like the idea of flexible sealer, but what is resistant to petrol? Is Hylomar instant gasket? Quote
gshub Posted July 13, 2019 Posted July 13, 2019 (edited) Do not use Hylomar instand Gasket I did fitting my Pingel Tap it gets in every thing?.. Like carbs.. Edited July 13, 2019 by gshub Quote
simesman Posted July 13, 2019 Author Posted July 13, 2019 Ah, OK, no Hylomar. I have cut a piece of the rubber off each end of the t-piece as it is metal underneath. Then I can roll 3 or 4 extra o-rings on the metal bit and hopefully get a good seal. Quote
BigT Posted July 13, 2019 Posted July 13, 2019 I'm assuming your fuel T are the rubberized style, rather than O rings 1st, wait and see is the leaking stops. It should take 12-24 hours. The rubberish material dries out when not exposed to fuel and should expand. If not, there are some O ring replacements, but I don't have a link for you. Because, all of my rubberized ones don't leak Quote
Guest YoshiJohnny Posted July 13, 2019 Posted July 13, 2019 I have some old 29s in a box that I was gonna sling as the pilots are snapped off in at least one and I CBA drilling them out.. yours for post Quote
gshub Posted July 13, 2019 Posted July 13, 2019 Had my my 28mm gs1000s carbs over hauled by Allens they replaced the carb Ts no leeks try them?... Quote
simesman Posted July 13, 2019 Author Posted July 13, 2019 (edited) Thanks YoshiJohnny, if the 29's are the same as 26's, they are bound to be useful for bits, especially if the fuel inlet bits are good. Let me know how much you need and i can bank transfer or PP you. Post code is BH25 5GY. Will look at the Allens site and see if they have the bits too, thanks gshub. Edited July 13, 2019 by simesman Quote
gs7_11 Posted July 13, 2019 Posted July 13, 2019 You want one of these: https://rover.Eblag.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.Eblag.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382124477439 Quote
gs7_11 Posted July 13, 2019 Posted July 13, 2019 Or new o rings from here: http://www.cycleorings.com Quote
simesman Posted July 14, 2019 Author Posted July 14, 2019 Thanks again gs7_11. I like the USA metal replacement T's, but I am hopeful that my mods to the rubber originals will work out. I did download the VM carb rebuild instructional from the cycleorings site as it has useful set-up info. Quote
Sazbo Posted October 27, 2019 Posted October 27, 2019 On 7/13/2019 at 2:55 PM, YoshiJohnny said: I have some old 29s in a box that I was gonna sling as the pilots are snapped off in at least one and I CBA drilling them out.. yours for post Quote
simesman Posted October 30, 2019 Author Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) I've only just got my VM's running properly now! It has taken bloody ages to get them just right. In the end, I had to re-fit the 17.5 pilot jets and change to standard 95 mains. It has been a bit of a nightmare removing and refitting the carbs and generally tweaking them in but they are perfect now. I used a Morgan carbtune to sync them but getting the mixture right was impossible without the Gunson colourtune. Now I have always found these to be crap, but with the VM's that have the fuel and air screw adjustment, they are essential! I set the fuel screw to 3/4 turns out on all carbs and the air screw to 1.5. Then you can either use the carbtune or colourtune to determine which cylinders are running lean. I could see with the carbtune that cylinders 1 and 4 were popping as the metal rods bounced violently whenever the motor popped. Initially I suspected coil issues, so changed these and the popping remained. So, another quarter turn on 1 and 4 fuel screws and popping stopped. I then tweaked each air screw using the colourtune and they are all wherever the colourtune told me was optimum. Very happy with the carbs now. Edited October 30, 2019 by simesman 4 Quote
Wolf Posted January 3, 2020 Posted January 3, 2020 I replaced the inlet piping to these and have not had a drop since 1 Quote
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