suzook12
-
Posts
138 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by suzook12
-
-
3 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Agreed - but Pilot jets don't just affect idle - they are from idle up to and onto the needle and need to be checked under load ie dyno or out on the road - WOT or not you can't look at it while riding.
True enough, but have found in the past, if you can get a good mix at idle at sesible turns out, then its a good indicator the pilot jet is right size as well, not every time granted, certainly 75% of the time.....
Back on topic, had a similar setup to this and 2 1/2 turns out was sufficient, but every bike is different
-
13 hours ago, Sheep said:
Are the cam to cam links actually beneficial in any way Gixer1460?..just curious
None whatsoever. If you are putting an oil feed to the cams different matter, cam to cam basically just equalises any pressure difference, not always a good thing. If you have 1 worn journal giving a low pressure on that cam, you will be reducing oil to the rest....
-
2
-
-
On 21/03/2017 at 4:49 PM, Gixer1460 said:
But they are really only any use for idle mixture! Bit tricky riding at WOT and peering down a Colourtune at the same time LOL!
Pilot jet mixture screw IS set at idle, the op is asking about pilot jet, not mains
-
Could be an idea to invest in a 12mm colourtune kit, will help you nail the mixture cock on
-
Just now, Gixer1460 said:
I doubt very much that wiring was the issue - more than likely a fubar'd regulator! Seeing as GSXR alternators are two wire only red - battery perm. live and Orange switched loads, sensing is instantaneous? Electrons don't really care if wire is 1ft long or 6ft in this case. Regardless - off topic!
Most loom wiring will handle a 1m extension providing comparable wire section is used with decent soldered joints - twisted together + a bit of PVC tape ain't gonna cut it!
Well it went on a road bike afterwards and charged at a steady 14V so def an issue on the load sensing side. We have seen several causes for over voltage output on GSX-R's. In this instance, everything was brand new, wires, relays,connectors the lot. Upping the wire from fuse to nitrous controller from 1mm to 1.5mm saw a voltage increase at controller of nearly 1.5V and also cured the running issues we were having, so yeah, it is all relevant.... Just saying as I see it, nothing worse than knifing up a brand new harness.... Back to topic...
-
If you do move it to the back probably an idea to up the wire sizes to compensate for voltage drop. Be wary of alternator output, I had a drag bike that was charging at 18V owing to the length of wiring before the alternator saw a signal voltage. Fortunately, in this case the alternator could be removed to run total loss, not an option on a street bike.....
Steve
-
1 hour ago, colinworth79 said:
Normally if you put the clutch back without meshing the gears they snap off a couple of teeth . I always like to put the basket back in then try to move the alternator and oil pump gear and make sure you can detect the back lash in the gears so you know its meshed . I did the same thing once many years ago in a rush , had the buy new gears and have the exhaust and sump off to find the remains .
Bin there too lol, bar far and away easiest method is to pull the alternator then refit it after the clutch, only one gear to worry about at a time then
-
Marksman also do them
though that chart is pretty useful though
-
pretty sure Ive used RF900 in the past, may had to respace calipers slightly tho, long time ago now
-
Generic part number is 32906- you can get 1 here https://www.123bearing.co.uk/bearing-32906.php
-
from a quick search, looks like srad uses 30 x 55 x 17 top and bottom, slabs n slings use 30 x 55x 17 bottom, 25 x 47 x 15 top, so assuming length is same you need a 30 x 47 x 15 top. Looking at allballs website, they do a 30 x 47 x 12, 3mm shim and you're good. part# 99-3540-5 , which is what they list in their conversion chart.... Their chart is pretty useful http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion
Hope that helps
Steve
-
Rick, if I get chance tomorrow, will look at my trade books and see what comes up. Got a busy day tomorrow, van mot in morning, post your exhaust, cut a tree down, have a look at a boat out norwich way then collect van and fail sheet and order parts...... So may need a nudge come Monday lol
Steve
-
Least ya got it now
-
1
-
-
When you say you changed the clutch, was it like for like or have you done the coil spring conversion? If the latter, did you put a ball bearing in between the rod halves? If the same, missing something like the pusher bearing and/or thrust washer could be enough to let the slave piston out too far. If you've changed one or both the rods, did you check the lengths?
-
Or is it coming too far out?
-
I would get some plastigauge and check the clearances before deciding whether or not to replace the shells. Seeing as you're in that deep, what about a lightened balanced crank? Makes engine much more responsive...... And I know where there is one Lol
Steve
-
1
-
-
capt, my haynes manual says US (except california)
mains 127,5 - pilot jets 37,5 - main air jets 1 and 4 0.9mm, 2 and 3 1.2mm
uk says
mains 117,5 - pilot jets 32,5 - main air jets 0mm (meaning plugged)
both say needle jets O-8
US (except california) jet needle 5ZDZ3
UK jet needle 6ZD7-3
It doesn't say anything about the Powerjet circuit though, which I'm not happy about...
Strangely, I have never come across any GSX-R with 0 air jets, 7 or 11's. I do however think you are massively overjetted. My 750m with full stage 3 kit had dj145's fitted, and on 7's I use 140 Mikunis as a starting point. Having found some take 135's and the odd one requiring 145's.
Stage 3 kits also seem to make bikes hyper sensitive to float heights.....
Steve
-
On my 1340, the sleeves are waisted to clear the oilway, retaining the internal oilway. To go 1371, most go external as the oilway is fouled or opened up.
Steve
-
10th digit of the frame/vin number will tell you the year, as it happens, on gsxr11 models, the digit is also the model. So J is 88.k89,l90 and so on, assuming you have the 17 digit VIN number
-
Hindle also work extremely well
Steve
-
They're not supposed to "snap" shut, thats the whole point of them.As long as they all take the same amount of time to shut then they are as they should be. As long as the butterflies snap shut then all is well.
Steve
Cam to cam oil links
in Oil Cooled
Posted
My drag bike runs billet cam links with an oil feed from the end of the rockers, have also seen then done with a feed from the main oil gallery, which I'm guessing have some sort of restrictor in there to stop robbing oil from elsewhere