suzook12
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Posts posted by suzook12
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Float heights
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Look like bandit 600 carbs
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Ouch!! got a box of 200 for less than that!!
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14 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
25mm wouldn't even reach the hole!
Sounds like headers aren't seated in the head properly then.... M8x25 is all I use on these, gives between 10-15mm of bolt in the hole once squeezed up
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I got an L motor here
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Who's main jets are you using? If mikuni, I would try dropping to 135's. IIRC float heights should be 13.5mm
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I had the coil spring conversion on mine, felt lighter than stock B12, ran silkolene pro4 and had no slip at all on std springs but a very well protected motor. Cost me around £100 to do and never got touched again through many years of hard riding. Had torn out 2 stock clutches within a 1000 miles, barnet lasted a whacking 15 miles!! I did a 1340 using teapot clutch (similar to slabby) and had no issues with that either, again using pro4 and developing a healthy 155 ponies with nigh on 100lb/ft of torque....
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I've used racetech gold valve emulators on a non suzuki, the difference was very pronounced with the spring kit to go with it. There is quite a bit of fettling to get them how you want them..... The roads round here are atrocious, and trying to get some speed up I used to feel like my eyeballs were rolling around like goldfish on speed on a bowl!! Calmed the front down no end but highlighted just how bad the back was... Once ya start.... Lol
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19 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
I've a set of 41's that are for my 1460 so should be ok airflow wise LOL! A M8 tried them on his 1216 and whilst the top end was there, they were pants at 'non licence losing speeds' so i've given him some 36mm RS's which have just been set up by Sean @ Big CC and total transformation - road manners, lifts the front in 1st 3 gears on the throttle + 156hp top end = happy bunny!
Yup, 36/38 RS's are good carbs. I prefer FCR's but I still have a set of RS's, allbeit 40's.... Just been offered a shedfull of gsx-r's and associated parts at maybe not quite rip your arm off price, but certainly "Don't waste time chewing" price lol, so kinda rueing the decision to sell my 38's.....
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1 hour ago, dupersunc said:
I hear this "wisdom" all the time, yet it makes no logical sense. I know they are fit to the kwaks to homolgate them for WSBK so were compromised on the road bikes, but they worked to an acceptable standard, on a 100bhp 750, yet a tuned 1200cc motor can't draw enough air speed??
Don't get me started on "ram air".
looking for some logic here not having a dig.
I understand where you're coming from fella, I don't know what the exact answer is. 41's work on the kwak on the track, not necessarily the case on the street. There could be lots of reasons but higher rev limit, downdraught and ram air will all play their part, short inlet tract will no doubt play a part also. By all accounts they work well on R1 and gsxr thou motors too, so air path to the valves and increased RPM may well be the biggest part of it. Our old oil boilers have quite a long inlet tract and have to turn the draught through 90 degrees too...... Add to that the slower engine speed of some 2000+ rpm. Maybe they would work better on an m/n 1100 but 3mm is a massive jump in carb size, especially when the stock carbs are CV's at that for the L's on 38's....
Also bear in mind, Kawasaki would be throwing a big budget at keihin for a limited number of carbs to get them right. And the motor would have been designed with this in mind too.....
1 hour ago, Wagola said:Maybe because race motors are always in the top end of revs ? And not worried about town manners ?
I've not ridden a ZX7RR to comment too much but I beleive they aren't a bundle of joy on the road, so yes, I dare say you are right. Racing is certainly a different proposition to road bikes for the likes of you and me. However, even a drag spec 1216 wouldn't run them, hence how i got hold of a set as the guy knew I was building a 1340, there was no doubting his bike was quicker on 39's by lots....
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1 minute ago, dupersunc said:
So FCR41s are ok on a 750 kawa, but too big for a 1216cc Suzuki.
Its all down to airflow, and the kwaks aren't using the full blown aftermarket race carbs and they do have forced air induction which probably helps. Many have tried and failed to get 41's running right on oil boilers of 1216 and less. I never got round to fitting them to my 1340 to find out how good they are on those but a couple of guys in the know said they would work, bearing in mind that was for a drag motor. The guy I bought them from certainly knew how to set a bike up (running 8's on gas) and he couldn't get them to work at all well. I decided the future was FI and turbo so, like I said, moved them on again.....
Think probably the air speed gets too slow to make them work properly when the tap is cracked, the 39's certainly work on these motors, my 1216 goes well with them although for road, as said earlier, would prefer 37's, but that's just personal preferance
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You really need 1340 or above to make FCR 41's work, you would be far better off with 37's or 39's for a road bike, 37's giving better low to mid than the 39's. I have 39's on my 1216 and they work really well, I came across a set of 41's from a 1216, they were sold as didn't work very well. I bought them for my 1340 motor, but a change of plans so I moved them on. These were all genuine race FCR's, not ex kawasaki items. There is no choke on the race carbs, but never been an issue as the pump puts plenty down the engine for cold starting
On the race carbs I beleive you just change the float bowls to make them downdraught/ side draught. Not sure if the same for ex kawasaki ones. Allens performance will be able to answer that......
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7/11's
in Oil Cooled
I've had a few
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Stay away from bandit shocks, this is where suzuki saved money building them..... A rebuild will cost around £120. Spring will seem soft when damping is shot.......
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From memory, think pilot jet should be #40, mixture screws 2- 2.5 turns out
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Yup, it'll be fine, its the clocks that feed the sender power which themselves are powered by a switched live...... All orange wires are switched lives on Suzuki's, Red are permanant live, black whites are earths (-12v)
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Hi bud, your sender should plug in to a 2 pin plug with yellow/black and black/white wires.... Hope that helps
If the plug is missing, the yellow/black goes straight to gauge, the Black/white can go to frame earth or battery neg
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Most likely got air trapped in the splitter. I would go round all the banjo bolts and bleed each one in turn
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I had a 19 row one on my 750J with B12 motor
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Cheers guys
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Hi guys, has anyone run a wc model (wp-wr) with an oil cooled cdi? Does it work properly?
Cheers
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Just the same set up as 2 strokes mate, just bigger!! Remove the alternator first before reinstalling clutch, take care to align the oil pump gear, once its all back in, refit the alternator. Far easier to do it this way than trying to align oil pump and alt at same time, saves replacing the drive gears on the back as they do break....
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Can't help ya with the remote preload, never had one, not even seen one in the flesh, looks like spring length may haveto be right after all......
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As ypu have an overlength arm, work out the legth as a percentage then increase the spring rate by the same percentage.......
Removing springs from an ohlins is a doddle, just keep unscewing the collar, you can remove the pre-load totally.... You will run out of spring before you run out of shock....
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Led turn signals
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Get a proper led flasher relay, saves lots of faffing about