suzook12
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Posts posted by suzook12
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Just a thought..... Racetech have a spring calculator on their website, crunch the numbers and see what it comes up with
Steve
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100 or 1000lb spring? my drag bike has a 1300lb spring from memory. That I can check, as I had 2, one of which was removed to put standard on when i sold the ohlins....
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Don't overtighten the cooler in the brackets, they do not withstand vibration very well, HEL stopped giving any warranty on the coolers because of this. If you can't move it, it's too tight.
I resorted to fitting Slabby coolers in the finish, much stronger unit, just have to be careful not to overtighten the lines, seen plenty cracked because of this.....
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Not so much a Suzuki oversight, or even a Mikuni oversight, think you'll find they're like that so they are level in the air stream when engine is running. What they really need is to be held more rigidly then vertical is spot on, but usually these types of needle are a pain when you want to do anything with them..... A set of RS's or FCR's is the best way forward, but not everyone can afford these....
Good call on Allens performance, didn't think to try them when I just rebuilt a set of BST40's. Although changing the tubes is a waste if you don't replace the needles, they wear as well.....
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Try checking voltage at CDI while running
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Most dyno shops set these slightly rich anyway, but sounds like you may well have worn emulsions, they wear oval after time as well as wear the needles. You're looking at around £225 for needles and tubes, or fit a dynajet kit.....
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You can fit a shorter spring, ohlins generally have loads of adjustment, demon tweeks used to do springs for £40 if you know what spring rate you want......Although you may be better off talking to a suspension tech. I would look at mine for you but as it has an 11" over swinger in it, won't be much help
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Cheers dude
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Hi guys, does anyone know if any other model carb top is a direct replacement for wp carb or part number? Just pulled the vacuum cap off and stub came with...
Cheers
Steve
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Yeah, i foll em with argon after venting for a day or so.... I have been known to burn the vapour off with a TIG torch before now as well, can also get some dents out doing that
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5 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
I have I believe 4 different tanks at home, I'll play around with all of them to check. I have a mix of 750 and 1100 tanks in both the California(stupid fucking emissions crap) and standard varieties. Similar thing happened to me, stock petcock other than not flowing enough, stopped closing all the way and dumped a good part of the tank on the floor of my garage.
I also found that here in the states, the steel Pingel bung for welding to the tank is only about $12.
Don't be tempted to fill with water before welding, did that on an old kwak and tank rusted out in a very short time, was only empty for about a month while getting repaired and sprayed...
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My mate is a professional upholsterer and always said if you want a thinner seat, use some higher density foam, or even dual layer, that way it stays reasonably comfortable. When I've had seats done by him in the past could ride quite easily untill fuel stops, whereas ones I've cut down have literally been a pain in the butt
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Dont use kevlar plates with fully synthetic oil either, mine lasted ooooh 15 miles maybe. Ended up binning it and doing the mod. You can use the teapot 11 clutch parts as well as slabby, they are slightly different but held up fine on my nitrous drag bike...
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I found with my old 7/11, various model tanks have slightly different fuel tap positions, couldn't tell you what was the best for clearance as had maybe 4-5 tanks on it during its lifetime.... I did turn the front rubber around so thickest side was uppermost and made some longer inserts for the rear rubbers after leaving it on the side stand overnight with a full tank, the tank moved slightly and knocked the pingel partially on and flooded the crankcase!
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do you have stock airbox or pod filters?
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Choices are 748, 749,1052,1127 or 1157
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18 hours ago, Swirl said:
you need the 1100 exhaust too
Or swap the sumps and pick up and tube/s
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sorry, misread it.... set of flatties would deffo work well with that
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Shouldn't this be in water cooled tho?....
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On 28/03/2017 at 5:53 PM, Banditmac said:
Any pics?
as requested
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Yup, something like loctite 577 will do the job. Good for up to 150degC, should be enough?
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FCR37/39's or RS38's would work well
Useful performance increase as well
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BSPT and NPT don't match up exactly, NPT taps fairly easy to find though
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Should be 2 small wires, black white= -12V, green/yellow from memory= +12V from starter button
Fitting aftermarket cooler on 750l
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Yup, HEL may have sorted their mounts out a bit better now, haven't used their kits for a long while. As I remember it, there wasn't enough metal to drill out to use the stock mounting rubbers so ther were hard mounted.....