suzook12
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Posts posted by suzook12
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Rockers can be reground and hardened too
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Another newbie error that causes head shake and bike wandering is gripping the bars too tight, a mate of mine used to do this, you could see his knuckles going white! You need very little pressure on the bars to control the bike.....
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Depends what you want to achieve from the motor, 36's will give you better bottom end, 40's will give you more top end power. Your base settings sound pretty good place to start. I beleive you will need the m/n carb rubbers for the 40's to fit....
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On 25/11/2017 at 10:05 PM, Duckndive said:
Yes the hub from the powerscream can be used but the powerscream basket has a helical gear so no good with a straight cut crank
Yup, doesn't read very well, but my spare basket is from a "k" motor
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Oddly recently sold a 750M with water damage.....
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I've done a few of these. An alternative for the hub/pressure plate is the gsx1100f powerscreen. I have a spare basket, but reluctant to sell it at the moment as I have a good motor to put it in to as have a 7/11 build as a possibilty as soon as workshop situation is sorted...
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gsx1400 does exactly that, nikasil bores. What other differences there are, I don't know, but no doubt someone will have access to a block to measure up
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On 14/11/2017 at 7:46 PM, Captain Chaos said:
it's too short for a bandit frame
When did that happen? Fitted many slingy front ends straight in to B12s or is this a mk2 issue?
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You could fit an anderson plug to the bike so you can start from a remote battery, once running disconnect and go, assuming you are running an alternator of course....
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Before I had impact guns, used to use the wood through the spokes method, but often you still need to "shock" the nut off... A tee bar and a lump hammer has always worked for me. Now have impact wrench so even easier
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Sounds like she might be a bit rich at idle
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I've used racetech valve emulators in the past on a different bike (Triumph) and was impressed by them....Having used a multitude of gsxr forks in my street bikes, my 750 j chassis was at its best with the stock forks, I replaced them with oil boiler USD's and it lost something handling wise. The WP forks and later seemed much better. I lived out in the fens at the time and the back roads there are horrendous, so apart from the regular fork seal changes, when set up the early slingshot RWU's are the pick of the bunch for me for riding hard on proper shite roads.... However, if I was building again would go more modern...
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the yolks swap out tho if you specifically wanted j/k rwu's
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When you swap CDI out, does it run for short time then start doing it again or is it ok for rest of the day?
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Guess it all depends on preferences. I used the 750j/k remote res master, plenty of feel and enough power to stand her on her nose with 2 fingers on the lever.....
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47 minutes ago, colinworth79 said:
wiring on these are fairly straight forward so should be easy fix . When you say no head lights do you have rear lights and the clock back lights ?Im thinking you have lost both low and high beam ? Maybe you have got a break in the negative return . If its been layed up for a while then possible a corroded connector block .
Agreed, Try breaking in to the black/white from the headlamp plug and taking it straight to battery negative. If that works, you can either run a permanent wire as all the earths at front end are inter connected iirc. You will need a wire of 2.5mm2 or larger.... The Hi beam warning light shares the same supply as the headlight but has its own earth path, so you are getting power to the switches. I also think running 10A + through a handlebar switch is a poor idea, I would add a pair of relays anyway to preserve the life of the switchgear, I have seen switchgear wiring have a melt down before.....
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1 hour ago, TiZiK said:
Cheers Suzook and say what now!?!
Just ordered up some lines and will sort this out tonight when I get home.
I would be taking a good look at the rockers as well....
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41 minutes ago, TiZiK said:
That's correct Gixer1460. I'm using 85mm block and the gallery that feeds the top end was cut into when the cases were machined to accept the larger sleeves.
Thanks for the replies guys. I see where I went wrong now. Its kind of a blessing I guess. Even if it had just enough oil to not damage itself while running in the bench, with my next step being a dyno session, I'm sure it would have totally destroyed the head then. All the info I found previously about big blocks and top end Oilers had no mention of running a line from the main gallery. I guess it assumed the cases weren't dry blocked.
I need to order up some 16 x 1.5mm to an-4 fittings and some banjos to run a main line from the bottom main gallery to the top end oiler.
Along those lines, do I run 2 lines from the bottom main galleries? 1 line for each sides' top end oiler?
I would do both sides, twice the oil up in same amount of time as per Suzuki.... I would make the fittings to have the same bore as the jets originally at the base joint as these help maintain oil pressure at the bottom, and use as small a bore hose as you can to eliminate the reservoir effect
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That looks like an exhaust bolt, possibly dropped in from the top at some point?
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The link you have to the top of the rocker box could well be your issue. That line is cooling oil, which could well have very little restriction to flow, which would cause your cam /rocker lube oil to go for cooling instead... Do you still have the "y" pipes connected at back of cylinder, that is the circuit you have tapped in to. For cams, I have only ever tapped from main gallery, which is where your cams would have been fed from originally.
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You need 12V+ along the orange/white, this feeds the coils and the CDI and runs from the kill switch. The kill switch is fed by the orange/black as is the starter button. From the fuse box, you are looking at the orange/yellow which feeds the sidestand relay then turns to orange/black at the relay. If the side stand relay is faulty, connect the orange/black and orange yellow together. The ignition fuse is fed by the orange from ignition switch.... You should be seeing near as dammit battery voltage all along those wires.
If you search Carl Salter manuals, you will find a slabby 11 service manual in pdf format. The wiring is much the same. For models that don't have the sidestand relay, the ignition feed is the orange/black from the fuse box....
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On 02/10/2017 at 8:26 PM, banoffee said:
He may have typed something that rhymes with ‘mixer’.
What's that all about anyway??
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15 hours ago, davecara said:
I'm using a slabby twin pickup back plate, a B12 rotor and a MK2 bandit loom and CDI. Seems to work fine with the 2/3 sensor unplugged. The existing plug for 1/4 was the same as the bandit one.
ive got a set of COPs to try on mine so I'll keep my peepers on this!
Fair enough, I weren't sure so didn't want to say yay or nay. I knew the plug for 1=4 pulse coil was the same, I have a feeling the harness plugs may be the same as well, allbeit, the slabber has connection tails whereas the slingy plugs straight in to unit. Just been such a while I can't remember for definite...
1127/1052/1157?
in Oil Cooled
Posted
I used the F clutch setup in my 1340 L motor with slingshot basket, never had any drag problems, even with a lock-up fitted. Before I installed it the drum was pretty notched though, so filed the notches out before assembling......