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rdubandit

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Posts posted by rdubandit

  1. I'm making my own choke assembly (some of the parts, like the holder, are no longer available) that works like those of the slingshot GSX-Rs.  I drew up the holder in Tinkercad and had a few laser cut from 14 gauge stainless (I hand bent this one with small, toothless pliers).  I bought some 0.188" stainless rod that I'm shaping on my Chinese bench lathe.  The plan is to weld a small piece of tubing to the choke bar and E-clip the stainless lever on either end of the piece of tube.  

    0151E4A0-BF95-4828-BB71-31A50FB84D87_1_2

    Do you think I can use my threading tool to cut notches for the E-clips, or should I thread it and attach the lever with nuts?

  2. Thanks, gents!

    Here's a pic with the float bowls coated (Cerakote H-series).  The coating:hardener ratio can take you from a matte --> satin --> semi-gloss finish.  I opted for satin finish and the crimson color isn't too bling-y and is a decent match for the red on my black Bandit:

    6D16167B-B4C5-430E-BA62-887D768B8354_zps

     

    • Like 4
  3. I picked up a set of used carbs on Eblag to refurb and try Cerakote:

    fullsizeoutput_c64_zps0jr24ntj.jpeg

    I had intended on a full strip-down (removing butterflies and rails), but found a room-temperature cure coating.

    After a Pine-Sol soak, and rinsing with both water and acetone, taping and plugging, I airbrushed on Cerakote C-Series (room-temp curing) "Cobalt":

    fullsizeoutput_c90_zps2zf7vw2n.jpeg

    fullsizeoutput_c92_zpsjjnlucgv.jpeg

    After a few days of curing, I removed the tape and sanded off the coating from the "MIKUNI" lettering:

    B84D38A3-BE1C-4151-8445-3268D6AA98ED_zps

    Red float bowls are my choice, although I will order a red that better matches the red on my bike:

    1559D66B-7A1B-4F37-9E77-1D2E4EB4F7B5_zps

    • Like 5
  4. 16 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

    The real problem with stroking a bike engine is unlike auto engines where conrod alternatives are viable option to allow just resize the BE & regrinding the BE offset, with bikes the variations are small and often don't compliment the small ends so you have to either find a shop capable and competent to either use stick, TIG welding or spray metal build up, remachine an offset pin and then grind back to stock journal size - quite expensive or pony up for a new billet crank - very expensive. I'd guess the former to be at least the cost of a bore and piston job, possibly 50% more whilst the latter (in my case) was 3x the cost of bore and pistons (which was done bigger as well LOL!)

    Psssst - turbo's give TORQUE and lots of power - makes a really good street bike LOL!

    Great info, thanks!  Hint received!! (y)xD

  5. 2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    Stroked motors generally make better torque which is better for a street bike but that's not 'trendy' or 'on point' with those that like revs as your example would probably redline at about 8500 - 9000! With the extra stroke I think the thin sleeves may become a weak point. My 1460 took a bit more than just case boring and some sleeves!

    1460cc - wow, I bet that was a lot of work!

    I'm very much a novice at engine building as my experience is limited to installation of 1216 pistons and a Web 236 intake cam and performing cam timing.  I've never opened an engine up all the way, but I'm eager to learn.  I would not drag race any of the bikes, and while I've taken a few of them to a nearby roadrace course, they'd be used mostly for commuting and joy-rides -- both of which would benefit from big torque. 

    So, related to this thread, it appears there may a benefit to not aiming for maximum bore, but perhaps increasing the stroke a bit?  The downside is paying for stroking the crank (and then probably choosing to have a little mass removed and knife-edging done as well).  :D   Lots of fun variables!

  6. 2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    Why stroke a baby one - bore it to 85mm and add a 5mm stroke - proppa!

    5mm more stroke with 81mm pistons would get you to 1319cc with bored stock sleeves.  Would that not be "streetable?"

    Wouldn't 85mm that require case boring and new sleeves?

  7. Seat and bum-stop done.  I machined a delrin insert for the M6 seat bolt that I need to install, and then it's pretty much done.

    fullsizeoutput_c78_zpsx7gkmw26.jpeg

    • Like 2
  8. I'd like to Cerakote a set of Bandit 1200 carburetors which requires complete disassembly.  Has anyone removed entirely the butterfly linkage?  The brass JIS screws holding the butterfly to the rail are staked.  Can I just carefully grind down the staked portion of the screw?

    IMG_0176_zpszqgwn32d.jpg

  9. 2 hours ago, Dezza said:

    Looks like a whole load of fancy bike stuff on there but the prices are so steep they're almost vertical:(

    Everything I bought on there was used...GSX-R400 front fender, exhaust, and Agras rearsets at ~50% cost of new.

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