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Posts posted by rdubandit
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57 minutes ago, Ted M said:
Looks spot on mate. How does it react with fuel though?
Water, petrol, oil, WD-40, iso-propyl alcohol, and acetone have no effect.
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Thanks, gents!
I ordered Cerakote "Crimson" for the float bowls. It requires heat curing, but that won't be a problem.
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Thanks!
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Thanks, Dezza!
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Thanks wraith!
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I picked up a set of used carbs on Eblag to refurb and try Cerakote:
I had intended on a full strip-down (removing butterflies and rails), but found a room-temperature cure coating.
After a Pine-Sol soak, and rinsing with both water and acetone, taping and plugging, I airbrushed on Cerakote C-Series (room-temp curing) "Cobalt":
After a few days of curing, I removed the tape and sanded off the coating from the "MIKUNI" lettering:
Red float bowls are my choice, although I will order a red that better matches the red on my bike:
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16 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
The real problem with stroking a bike engine is unlike auto engines where conrod alternatives are viable option to allow just resize the BE & regrinding the BE offset, with bikes the variations are small and often don't compliment the small ends so you have to either find a shop capable and competent to either use stick, TIG welding or spray metal build up, remachine an offset pin and then grind back to stock journal size - quite expensive or pony up for a new billet crank - very expensive. I'd guess the former to be at least the cost of a bore and piston job, possibly 50% more whilst the latter (in my case) was 3x the cost of bore and pistons (which was done bigger as well LOL!)
Psssst - turbo's give TORQUE and lots of power - makes a really good street bike LOL!
Great info, thanks! Hint received!!
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Just now, clivegto said:
Just fit a turbo with a few engine mods.
I'm a "naturally-aspirated" kind of guy. Turbos are cheating!
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2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Stroked motors generally make better torque which is better for a street bike but that's not 'trendy' or 'on point' with those that like revs as your example would probably redline at about 8500 - 9000! With the extra stroke I think the thin sleeves may become a weak point. My 1460 took a bit more than just case boring and some sleeves!
1460cc - wow, I bet that was a lot of work!
I'm very much a novice at engine building as my experience is limited to installation of 1216 pistons and a Web 236 intake cam and performing cam timing. I've never opened an engine up all the way, but I'm eager to learn. I would not drag race any of the bikes, and while I've taken a few of them to a nearby roadrace course, they'd be used mostly for commuting and joy-rides -- both of which would benefit from big torque.
So, related to this thread, it appears there may a benefit to not aiming for maximum bore, but perhaps increasing the stroke a bit? The downside is paying for stroking the crank (and then probably choosing to have a little mass removed and knife-edging done as well). Lots of fun variables!
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2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Why stroke a baby one - bore it to 85mm and add a 5mm stroke - proppa!
5mm more stroke with 81mm pistons would get you to 1319cc with bored stock sleeves. Would that not be "streetable?"
Wouldn't 85mm that require case boring and new sleeves?
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Has anyone ever increased the stroke of a 1216?
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@JaydeeAny more pics of those carbs?
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They looks fantastic! I'll post up my results with Cerakote. I bought the C-series coating.
@JaydeeI purchased directly from Cerakote: https://www.cerakote.com/?msclkid=a0c5d7ef79471b791dde8a427dc27834&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=01 Brand&utm_term=cerakote&utm_content=General
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I feel pretty stupid. Cerakote makes room-temperature curing ceramic coatings, so I don't need to remove the butterflies and linkage.
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2 hours ago, Dezza said:
Looks like a whole load of fancy bike stuff on there but the prices are so steep they're almost vertical
Everything I bought on there was used...GSX-R400 front fender, exhaust, and Agras rearsets at ~50% cost of new.
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I got it from a yahoo auction site: buyee.jp — loads of stuff on there that one cannot source in the US. Shipping is expensive but fast.
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On 10/6/2019 at 8:51 PM, Gixerguy1216 said:
Exhaust looks ace
Thanks! It's an Ohnishi Heat Magic full Ti system from Japan. I got a great deal on it.
CV Carburetor refurb/Cerakote treatment
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by rdubandit
punctuation
I'm making my own choke assembly (some of the parts, like the holder, are no longer available) that works like those of the slingshot GSX-Rs. I drew up the holder in Tinkercad and had a few laser cut from 14 gauge stainless (I hand bent this one with small, toothless pliers). I bought some 0.188" stainless rod that I'm shaping on my Chinese bench lathe. The plan is to weld a small piece of tubing to the choke bar and E-clip the stainless lever on either end of the piece of tube.
Do you think I can use my threading tool to cut notches for the E-clips, or should I thread it and attach the lever with nuts?