Danm54
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Posts posted by Danm54
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Bit more progress, it runs up to and over 100c fine in the shed so I think it was just coincidence that it cut out at 100c.
Got the infrared thermometer on it though and the flow connection on the rad is a good 10c hotter that the temp sensor reads, it does cross above the headers after the sensor and the stat but I didn't think it would really gain any heat from them. Clearly it does.
I've started to move the stat over to the other side so it doesn't cross over the headers to see if that improves things, it might also give me a more even flow through the cylinders but I'm unsure as the standard bike is piped both ways depending on the year.
Its damn tight though which is why I piped it the way I did in the first place.
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Another run out today, got the same distance though!
Sat at lights for a minute and watched the coolant temp creap up, cut out exactly on 100c
While I was sat waiting for it to cool down I reloaded the ignition map it came back with, seemed to run the same temp on the way back but sat with it running and the temp didn't rise as quickly. Definitely felt quicker though.
Will try it with that map but without the retard on boost.
Need to keep plenum temps down so will wrap the last bit of up pipe. Considering putting some heat reflective mat on the plenum, thing is I don't want to insulate it and keep heat in.
The heat shield on the exhaust worked well but it still gets pretty warm.
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Found a cause for it cutting out, one of the bolts that mount the turbo had fell out and its one that the hole breaks through into the compressor housing.
Would have been drawing too much air in on closed throttle which is why it cut out when I shut the throttle when warm.
Sounded a little better on the new ignition map and even better once the bolt had been replaced.
Heat wrap and a bend for the exhaust shield should be here tomorrow to stop me burning my leg for the next test ride.
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1 hour ago, colinworth79 said:
my gsxr 1000 k4 has a digital readout for coolant , if you start it and then put your lid and gloves on it will be getting up to 50 c ish and about half a mile up the road its up to 80 where the stat opens and will run between 85-95 depending on traffic . Fan cuts in at 105 c . Think your gsxr should be roughly same for stat opening and running temps .
Maybe its not so bad then, could be the heat from the turbo on my leg giving me the impression that's its getting too hot. Will have to let it get hotter and see if it stabilizes.
Re-read the manual and the stat stars opening at ~80c and the fan cuts in at 105c.
The pull up resistor works fine from the quick start up it got, will see how it performs on a ride out.
Changed the ignition timing as well, its a 2D map now and is pretty much as you suggested @slingy1157 didn't start it up as it was gone 9pm and I try not to annoy the neighbours too much. Set the 600rpm & 900rpm columns to 10 and 12 degrees as the were on the MS map.
Put the stat back in as suggested, will also show me if the timing change makes any difference to temps.
The oil leak is from a flared fitting on the solid lines to the cooler, gave it a clean off and re-tightened but I'll have to keep an eye on it next ride out.
Another thing I've noticed is that the ECU runs closed loop lambda with a correction factor off the injector table. Its currently set to allow up to 20% correction. Does this seem a little
excessive?
Thanks
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Well I have the base map from his Martek but I'm not sure he knows...
That's pretty much how I set up the MS when it had that fitted, I may look back at those figures and try them out. I've no idea why this is so complex.
The bit that concerned me with the temps is how quick it got there, I've only got the dial on the standard 1100 so I don't know what temp it actually sits at.
The manual says the stat will open at 105c so I do have a long way to go to reach that, it should run fine at the temp its reached so I'm not sure why it cuts out.
Thanks for the info, gives me something to start on.
Called Specialist Components today as well, they say a pull up resistor will get the tacho working so I'll give that a try.
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Its not a great vid but its something!
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Got a couple of pics of the map
And the MAP correction table
Can only find info for stock advance below 1500rpm, not what it switches to after it.
Also flushed the coolant out and checked the thermostat, it works but I've left it out to see if the extra flow helps things.
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Passed the MOT with an advisory for a noisy exhaust, not sure why....
Had a mate take it down as I was busy with work and he got caught in traffic for 5-10 mins, the bike cut out and wouldn't start until it had cooled for best part of an hour. I need to try an keep some heat away from the intake area, got some heat wrap and a turbo heat blanket on the way.
Been out today, the vid isn't great as I struggled to find anywhere good for the camera and the bike still has some running issues.
It gets hot, very quick. Coolant was up to 60c within half a mile, stayed there ok as long as I was doing 60 with low rpm's. As soon as I opened it up a little it was up to 70c and stayed there then cut out when I had to stop for some lights.
Clutch isn't right as it doesn't like changing gear at higher rpm, thought I was in 5th as it wouldn't change up but when I slowed a bit it changed fine..
The rev counter still doesn't work right either so I don't know what rpm its reaching, need to get that sorted before the next run out.
The run back was better but didn't record it as I expected it to cut out again, still sat at 70c but made it home fine. Did try out the quickshifter though and it works lovely, little pop from the exhaust and a nice smooth gear change. Will be using that all the time.
The breathers are spraying a bit of oil out which is ending up on the right side of the rear tyre, there's also an oil leak under the seat which is making its way down the left side of the bike and ending up on the left side of the rear tyre.
Had a look through the ignition timing, will need to check what the stock timing is but could this cause so much heat build up so quickly if set incorrectly?
Vid to follow once its uploaded.
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Scrap what Ive said, took mine for a test ride and the rev counter is all over the place!
Will have to call Specialist Components to see what output Im dealing with.
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Sorry for the lack of updates, busy times and a broken phone mean forums have to wait until I have time in the evening.
Anodising came back Wednesday anyway, pulled a late one in the shed Wednesday night and got it all back together.
MOT is booked for tomorrow so a quick shakedown tonight was in order. Had done a couple of miles back and forth when everything died about 1.5 miles from home. Pushed it to a gateway and set about calling the girlfriend, using an old phone though so have no numbers stored! Managed to get hold of a mate from an old text so while she drove out I did what I could with a 4mm allen key and a stick.
Seats off and tail section off and a blown fuse was to blame, had me shitting it for a while though!
Turns out the new ECU is wired through the same fuse that feeds the kill switch, start button and starter relay and unlike like the old one it pulls all its power through that. 15a isn't enough...
The clutch was dragging a bit so bled that when I finally got home.
New master cylinders are a dream, bled straight up and instantly got a good firm brake lever.
Not really gave it a handful as my rev counter is all over the place but the first time it came on boost it caught me out and nearly had me off the back, this bike is going to be so much fun!
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Have you tried with the trigger wheel in a drill to eliminate any starter motor interference?
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Touch what connection?
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Picked up some resistors and tried them but rev counter didn't budge. Connected the oscilloscope and couldn't get a clean reading from the ecu.
Gave up and wrapped a wire around number 1 coil and worked straight away.
Its a stick coil and gave it 5 wraps around the top just under the rubber gromit.
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Doing a little reading on this and the resistor that comes up is 2k ohm.
Its needed as the ecu puts out a square wave signal and the clocks like sine wave so the resistor smoothes it out.
I'll pick one up from Maplin and try it out tomorrow.
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@Fula28 Think its a k5 shock, the k series seem to use the same looking shock but have different bolt centres and spring rates.
Bolt hole centres are 325mm which apparently has a 8.1kg/mm (12.75" 450lb/in) spring rate.
Dropped the RF6 front end in to get the rear on the ground and the shock is a little soft, got 75mm static sag and 25mm when I get on the bike.
That might change a little when the right front end is in but I'd imagine I'm going to have to wind the spring adjusters down, they're about half way currently.
Just looked back at your thread and compared your latest setup with mine, doesn't look all that different, if anything mine is pulling slightly more vertical on the linkage but its hardly anything.
Hope that helps a little.
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Think it compresses fine, not really ridden it. I'll see if I can get some weight on it tomorrow and give it a try out.
Want to say its a K4 shock but I'll grab some details off it and double check.
Also got an extended swinger so have a little more leaverage than you.
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Will be totally worth it in the end, these hold ups and frustrations will be forgotten.
Doesn't help that my easy Friday has turned into no lunch, cold coffee and late finish kind of Friday.
Posting this with a melted kit kat and another cold coffee
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Nothing came back from anodising today, to say I'm fucked off is an understatement.
Cancelled the MOT as I can't be arsed to work late again getting the DR ready. It can wait.
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So the anodising was picked up a day late so they'll be back tomorrow.
Everything is ready for the front end to go in and the MOT is booked for Saturday morning. It's not my usual place so I hope they like modified bikes....
Now I'm not one for too much negative thinking but if the anodising doesn't come back for any reason the DR is only an hour or so from being finished so my MOT won't be wasted.
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You do have to set the clocks for the amount of cylinders, hi or lo side of coil etc.
If you search for a company called digital speedos then there are a few manuals on there with an explanation how the clocks are set up.
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I've got the same problem on a genuine Koso. Taking the rpm signal off the ecu, doesn't register on the gauge but there's no info saying what signal its looking for.
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Seen pics on fb, looks a tidy buy.
But yea, its not real until its on here.
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I love a good parcel to come home to
Build quality feels good, nice smooth lever action, res pots with brackets that fit nicely and a pressure switch.
See how they perform.
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Cleaned some overspray off the bike tonight, bloody stuff gets everywhere!
Fitted the adjustable links, extended them 5mm from the dog bones that were on.
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shells for corrillo rods
in Oil Cooled
Posted
A friend put mine on a CMM at his work so they came back with an exact id and roundness reading.
Match that with the specs for the bearings and you'll have the number for the rod.
Worth measuring the crank as well to make sure thats still in tolerance.
You need to find a local friendly engineering company.