Danm54
-
Posts
604 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Danm54
-
-
My initial thought was that I'd have to kick them up. They really need kicking up early though and the gusset from the shock mount will also need altering which I'd like to avoid.
Didn't get time last night but I'll see about kicking up the rear which would just leave me needing to pack up the middle.
Think there's a few options.
-
I did try it with the tail section on and it just covered the lower frame rails, I wouldn't want them sticking out the bottom.
It just seems a big gap to pack up.
-
Did you alter the seat then or just pack the rear up?
-
You could get the angle ot kicks up if you have a chance.
Cheers
-
Yea I did cut the loop off along with everything else that was in the way.
Thanks @skelly exactly what I feared. Can't see it that much in other Kat frame pics but I assumed it must kick up as thats the only way everything else lined up.
Looks like the grinder has got some more work yet, will do some measuring first though.
-
1
-
-
In the process of converting an esd frame into a katana and I'm caught up on the seat, it wants to sit flat on the front part of the seat but that kicks the back up 40-50mm off the frame rails.
How do they fit as standard and has anyone got any pics?
Thanks
-
Take 2
-
1
-
-
Thats similar to what came off but I need to fit a rad in front so have to keep the 4 pipes flat to the frame.
When I started I was just going to pull the 2 inner pipes back but that left a long pipe straight down after it.
Maybe I need to alter the up pipe so it doesn't drop as low, could collect them higher then take it sideways earlier.
-
Haha, didn't think it looked right myself which is why I stopped and asked.
Should they collect sooner? The normal draw through headers have a lot of pipework before they collect so not sure how much difference it actually makes.
-
Headers version 3, going to drop 2 & 3 into the v, one either side.
Thoughts?
-
Perfect, I'll give the valves a clean up and a check over but they are seating right.
The wastegate has been like that since it came back from John, I've never touched it assuming that it was set correctly.
Didn't pay attention to boost pressure on the dyno day either, the boost gauge on the bike always resets itself at about 0.6 bar so you never see the peak boost pressure, just thought it was fucked and needed replacing.
What sort of afr range so I be aiming for then, is 12.1 ok for higher throttle openings and rpm?
Thanks
-
2 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
Don't look like Busa pistons ..more like aftermarket that have had valve pockets machined deeper.....and as Ian said sharp and thin edges are a NO NO...
Still onwards and upwards Figs show promise..
........Every Days a Skool Day
This is an expensive Skool Day!
-
Its target lambda was 8.5 when it came back from John and it achieved that with a lot of correction.
During the last dyno setup correction was turned off and the fuel map was even richer so it was pulled back but it was still richer than the 8.5 target it started with.
Think he aimed for 8.2 lambda or 12. something afr.
Comp ratio is 9.1:1 with 12psi.
Pistons are mtc turbo, dished and prepped by Roger Upperton, rebore and valves/head work also by him. I didn't really question or check anything.
Have checked the bleed valve for the wastegate to see what psi it opens at as it was replaced and set by John, 2 bar didn't open it. Stopped there and had a play, the bolt was tightened right to the ball so it was never going to open.
The valves should seat on the outer angle then? These only seat on the middle one.
-
It appears the valves are only seating on one of the angles as well.
Certainly haven't got a big surface area to seat on.
-
WARNING, THIS POST CONTAINS PICTURES OF ENGINE COMPONENTS IN DESTRESS!!
Intake valves and piston tops are glazed heavily, I'm sure someone knows why this has happened but I can't be arsed to think it through now.
Moving onto the valves now, either get all the bad news out the way or find a positive...
-
Dyno day started with a few pulls as it rolled up, 193bhp.
Went through the ecu with Dan and we sorted out what done what and what needed to be done.
Turned off the auto correct and off he went mapping, thankfully it was too rich all over so fuel was pulled.
Coolant temps were creeping up which wasn't great to see, the rad just isn't big enough for the limited airflow in the dyno room.
The killer blow came when the monster can breather filled up and blew oil over Dans dyno. Big enough problem to finish the day.
But progress was made, I've got some honest feedback and I know what needs improving.
Got home and called Dave to talk catch tanks but was quickly advised that I shouldn't really be getting any oil out the breather and my power was still too low.
He's a brutally honest guy, basically your bores aren't right and you need to pull your engine apart. Stop fucking around and get on with it.
Pulled the cam cover off and checked the valve clearances again, all too small.
Dropped a camera down the plug holes and the bores are quite shiney...
Not the clearest pic but you get the idea.
So head and barrels off, check valves and seats, check pistons and dig out some spare barrels ready for a fresh rebore with possibly tighter clearances.
-
1
-
-
Loaded and ready, locked in the garage for the night ready to hook up in the morning.
-
1
-
-
I don't want to rely on auto adjustment long term really, the fuel map should be set up close enough to just use auto adjustment as a safety net.
I've looked over the 4 cylinder start map and the fuel map is the same as mine, just mines been lowered. I think John has used a generic base map and lowered it to suit the bike without tuning it.
The start map comes set for tps/rpm auto tune as well but I can't figure out how to change mine back to it or set up a new one.
The fuel map can be set to use map/rpm or map compensated tps/rpm but again I can't set up a new map.
Exactly right about the map multiplier, its set manually with no way to auto tune it.
You'd need a map/rpm fuel map and auto tune that using map/rpm.
I'd guess throttle response would be poor though.
-
Don't know, thats the way it came from John. Not sure if you can change tps to map or not.
There's a fuel table multiplier thats map based for the extra fuel needed on boost.
There's also an acceleration fueling multiplier and I've no idea how that affects the auto mapping or how you'd go about setting it up. Thats if its actually needed at all but its currently set to add fuel.
Theres a lot of things I don't know about setting this up and the more I look the more questions I've got.
I figured I'd probably be able to make it work but there'd be parts of the setup I'd need done on a dyno to finish it off properly anyway so I may as well start on the dyno and make sure I'm starting in the right place.
The map/rpm fuel map for example may well be the best way so there's no point in me setting up a tps/rpm map.
-
Been thinking more on this and digging a bit more into the ecu settings. The auto mapping uses rpm/map so I can't see how it can accurately correct an rpm/tps fuel map.
Turned that off and ran it just on the wideband control and whilst the lambda stays at the target value the correction is all over the place. So to tune the fuel map I'd have to turn off the wideband control and run it just on the fuel map which I'm positive is too lean on a lot of places. Log some miles on that and correct the fuel map accordingly.
Decided its actually quite dificult to do this in the shed and on the road without the possibility of damage.
Decided a day on the dyno was in order and chose the home of the oss dyno day, rtr motorcycles.
Got in next wednesday so I should come out with a decent tune this time.
-
Was raining most of Saturday but I had a little shed time this afternoon and sorted a lean spot around 4k at 0 throttlewhich made it hang. It revs above there and drops to normal idle again.
Set the temp fuel map multiplier to 1 over 40 degrees instead of .78 and it starts from hot, warm etc so thats an improvement.
Pod today but a little run out this evening for a bit of data logging.
Got a good log of rpm, map, tps and lambda. Runs lean when returning to idle but sits around .8 - .9 lambda most of the time.
Kept it below 5k and off boost, seems to pull well but doesn't like holding a set rpm on the throttle and is jerky on overrun.
Few problem areas were corrected on the auto correct but I'll be keeping an eye on what it want to correct.
-
Its fitted and working, didn't take long.
Auto mapping is working and recommending changes to the fuel map.
Only had time for a couple of miles so I need a longer run and have a look at the data logs.
Progress at last!
-
3
-
-
Picked the lambda and controller up today.
Pretty big difference between this and what was fitted.
Pulled a later finish tonight so I've got tomorrow night free to fit it.
-
1
-
-
Heard from John yesterday morning, sensor was in and would be posted for delivery today.
Made sure I didn't book any work in so I could have an evening on the bike, early finish too which was perfect.
Got home to a card saying it had been taken to the "local" sorting office for collection tomorrow. Called there anyway because I really want this sensor. Won't be sorted until tomorrow.
I've not had a parcel taken there for as long as I've lived here, normally goes to the local PO for collection anytime the shop is open not 4 fucking miles away where it sits in a tray until they sort it for you to collect.
So I'm sitting doing nothing tonight then working tomorrow night and Friday night plus Saturday.
Life decision has just been made, fuck the jobs on the side, I just want to ride bikes!
Katana seat fitting
in Air Cooled
Posted
After a closer look its only about 20mm too low, not sure how I got it to sit higher...
I think the tail section will sit low enough to cover the frame rails, I'll have to get it set up properly and held in position then see how it looks.
Busy week though so going to be short on time.